Using an inverter to power outlets

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coy55boyrv

coy55boyrv

Active member
Joined
Aug 4, 2019
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27
Location
Tucson, AZ
My RV currently has a modified wave 1100 watt inverter tied to a couple of outlets that were added when the inverter was initially installed. One is under the dining table and the other is under the lounge table. I want to upgrade to a pure sine wave 3000 watt inverter so that I can have 120V power at all the outlets including the microwave. My instincts tell me something needs to be done to prevent a problem when the generator is running or I'm connected to shore power. Does anyone know where I can find documentation on how to do this?
 
I assume that your inverter now always powers the two outlets from your batteries even if the generator is running or you are plugged into shore power?

You will need a transfer switch. Many inverters have the switches built in. The transfer switch changes duty from the inverter to either shore power or the generator. Be sure that the transfer switch will handle the same quantity of power that your generator or shore power will offer. Mounting location is important for wiring ease. Instructions for wiring will be included with the inverter.

If you need a separate transfer switch, sizing the switch would be contingent on the largest load which would be relative to your main breaker in the coach.

I don't have any plans at my finger tips but I would think other members will chime in with some.   
 
I'll also throw in you will need plenty of battery power to run that microwave.
 
Gizmo100 said:
I'll also throw in you will need plenty of battery power to run that microwave.
Click to expand...

I would agree.  To run a microwave and to get the max out of a 3000 watt inverter, I would think you would need at least 600 amp hours of batteries.
 
A 2,000 watt inverter will run a microwave however properly wiring all of that up is a bit of a challenge.  My Horizon came with a 2kw inverter and the primary 12v wiring is maybe 4 or 2 gauge (100 amps at ~12v). If you are electrically competent,  go for it.
 
I am co-author of an article that describes methods of adding an inverter that powers existing 120v system. It's on another Social Knowledge website - see http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-inverter-install-diy/

Except for cutting out the existing converter/charger, adding an inverter with a built-in transfer switch is not terrible difficult.  And if you choose an inverter/charger w/ transfer switch, it gets easier yet. However, if your existing converter/charger is integrated with the 120v power center, the wiring is likely to be messy.

Explanations will be difficult without us knowing what you now have for wiring, charger, load center, etc. Identifying what needs to be done and practical methods of doing it is where electrical knowledge and experience comes in.
 
I found the easiest way to do this was the

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1220/dp/B002LGEMOQ/ref=asc_df_B002LGEMOQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1525607802936075173&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028223&hvtargid=pla-539100621835&psc=1

AC side: Get 2 of the relays to go with it.  You plug the relays into the inverter, disconnect 2 circuits from the panel and connect them to the relays.  NOT the microwave, AC, or water heater.

DC side:  short heavy cables, mount the inverter close to the batteries.  I used 2/0 awg wire in the 2 ft length.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F4GI5B0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Bobtop46 said:
I found the easiest way to do this was the

https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-PROWatt-Inverter-Model-806-1220/dp/B002LGEMOQ/ref=asc_df_B002LGEMOQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1525607802936075173&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028223&hvtargid=pla-539100621835&psc=1

AC side: Get 2 of the relays to go with it.  You plug the relays into the inverter, disconnect 2 circuits from the panel and connect them to the relays.  NOT the microwave, AC, or water heater.

DC side:  short heavy cables, mount the inverter close to the batteries.  I used 2/0 awg wire in the 2 ft length.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F4GI5B0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

This is what I did in our motorhome to power the circuits the outlets are on, but it sounded to me like the OP wanted to power almost everything in his RV.
 
You can also use the inverter like Shore Power. Plug the Shore Power Cord into an adapter or wire a 30 amp RV receptacle to the inverter and locate it in the Shore Power Cord compartment.

You will have to turn off the breaker for the converter or if it shares a circuit unplug it or wire in a switch.

I would recommend not going over 2000 watts for inverter if you use a 20 amp adapter. If you wire in a 30 amp RV receptacle, do it with 10 ga wire.

Wire the DC side of the inverter with 2/0 ga marine battery cable and keep the cables to the batteries under 4'.

As mentioned you will need at least 400 to 600 amp/hr of batteries
 
Make sure neutral and ground are kept seperate if you plug the shore power cord into an inverter.  They're supposed to be seperate in an RV but sometimes mistakes happen.

Less expensive inverters put out balanced power, where both the hot and neutral lines carry voltage.  Since the battery's neutral cable and the electrical ground both connect to the vehicle chassis, having neutral and ground connected together will short out half of the inverter.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
I am co-author of an article that describes methods of adding an inverter that powers existing 120v system. It's on another Social Knowledge website - see http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-inverter-install-diy/
Click to expand...

Thanks Gary (and everyone else) I found this article independently and had already bookmarked it. I'm currently using method 3 but would like to upgrade to method 1. The downside I found was explained in the article..."The most elegant (and of course, most expensive) solution". Those darn things ARE expensive. I considered method 4, but since the inverter and batteries are located near the front on the passenger side and the shore power hookup is near the rear on the driver side, it would be awkward and could not be used while in transit.

For the time being, I think I'll just leave the microwave alone unless connected to shore power or running the generator. If I need power elsewhere, I'll just have to extension cord it!
 
You can do #4 and use it in transit by wiring from inverter through the compartments to the compartment where the Shore Power Cable is. Install the 30 amp outlet in that compartment. If you can't get through the compartments you can run it underneath through appropriate raceway. You can use NM or UF through the compartments and individual wires through a raceway. Use an outdoor rated flexible conduit such as Liquid-tite.
 
I know what your propose is doable, because my  MH has an OEM Xantrex RS2000 that powers every receptacle in the coach; I tested every one to be sure. This MH came with 3 12V house batteries, which power the convection microwave satisfactory, but I'd never attempt to bake a cake.
 
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