Should I rewire my trailer for 220?

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gcharles1111

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Mar 25, 2019
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the camper that I bought this year, 2019, is a Coachmen Royal 360RK 5th wheel. It's a permanently positioned residence for full-year living as I'm handicapped, retired and own the property.
My cousin Mark is an electrical, AC and heating contractor that's had his own business for over 35 years.
He suggested that I go to a 240 volt system rather than the 120 volt I have now. I don't know what advantage it provides.
I have problems with the two 30 amp cords that come into my camper from my pole because of the 100 foot distance.
Originally I called Mark to get his price on two 6/3 outdoor wires to make extension cords out of.
He asked the problem I'm having and I explained it to him, now he wants to look at it.
When I use my microwave or coffeemaker, I have to turn off my one heater otherwise I throw a breaker inside...I also throw a breaker in my panel box outside 100 feet away.
That's weird...
 
Mod note: So it will get more response I moved your post to its own topic rather than continue a 12 year old one
 
Without knowing more about your RV it is very hard to say how big of project this would be.  Having said that if you are getting free labor to do the work, I don't see a good reason for you not to do it.
 
I would address that 100 foot run first. The voltage drop could be adding to your problem.

I'm also assuming your running electric heaters. So upgrading to 220 panel box might allow you to add extra outlets to run the heaters.

The big question would be cost and if you have space in the RV to handle a 220 breaker box.
 
If you have room for a washer/dryer, I would do it in a heart beat.
I have my trailer permanently and put a dock box, ( I won't go into all the details), just behind it for a washer/dryer.
I ran 220 underground from my power pedestal to it for the dryer, and now my wife doesn't have to go to the laundramat and is a happy camper

Jack L
 
NO!!!  There is nothing that uses 220 on an RV of any sort.
That is incorrect, but not relevant here anyway

We need to learn more about the present power system, but I suspect cousin Mark is right.  A 240v system (50A/240v) will increase the available power substantially, probably more than 2x. Whether it is cost effective remains to be determined.
 
We use 220V as main voltage here in Chile, my TT is USA made so, Refrigerator, AC, microwave and battery charger are 110V, so we put a transformer from 220V to 110V 5KWatts for this appliances and 220V for everything else and we don't change any cable in the TT.
 
I suspect Mark wants to run a sub panel to outside the camper. Best done in 220v. Then run a separate outlet to power your camper. If you need other power off the sub-panel its just a matter of adding circuits/outlets. The sub-panel will eliminate the voltage drop your experiencing via the extension cords. Plus the sub-panel is permanent. In the long run, your money ahead. Plus it will be safer.

The advantages of 220 is two power lines versus one. Plus if you ever want to run 220v devices you can. It will also up the value of the property should you sell.
 
Hanr3 said:
I suspect Mark wants to run a sub panel to outside the camper. Best done in 220v. Then run a separate outlet to power your camper. If you need other power off the sub-panel its just a matter of adding circuits/outlets. The sub-panel will eliminate the voltage drop your experiencing via the extension cords. Plus the sub-panel is permanent. In the long run, your money ahead. Plus it will be safer.

The advantages of 220 is two power lines versus one. Plus if you ever want to run 220v devices you can. It will also up the value of the property should you sell.

:)) :))

I would have your cousin install a temporary power panel (50 amp outlet and 20 amp outlet) outside your RV.  If your camper is 30 amp use a dog bone to adapt the 50 amp to 30 amps for the camper.  This will leave you an open 20 amp 120 outlet at the box.  In the case of a 30 amp camper you can run a dedicated shorter heavy duty extension cord from it into your camper to power a space heater.  Basically giving you 30 amp for the RV and a separate 20 amp extra.  If your camper is 50 amp, you will have a spare outside outlet to plug things in like heat strips for water lines, lights, etc..
 
Have your cousin install a 50/30/20 amp RV Pedestal for you. Also have him install one or more dedicated 20 amp 120 volt circuits for your space heaters. If you don't have room for a new 240 volt Load Center you can power the Space heater Circuit from the Pedestal with a separate Shore Power Cord.
 
I can clarify more about this camper's power.
I came from factory with a 30 amp system, then a previous owner added another 30 amp to the system.
I'm running both and also added a 20 amp cord through the camper wall to add a third infrared heater.
All together, I have 80 amps.

My problem is the distance that the two 30 amp cords have to travel from my main power panel...it's more than 85 feet, so I'm sure that I'm having a power loss due to the size of the cords.
Since I've posted this, my cousin MarkEYDPKC was here and checked everything and approved of it.
I still have the distance problem to fix with heavier gauge wires, but at least it's staying 120 volt.

This camper came with a washer/dryer combo hookup, but for a 120 volt outlet.
 
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