RV Parking pad

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robfogle

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2007
Posts
58
Location
SE Wisconsin
I want to put in a pad beside my house to park the RV while not in use and for winter storage. I have decided that I want to put in a gravel pad for cost reasons and not wanting to put a concrete pad in because of of the size needed and long term issues.

The questions that I have are:

1. What material would be the best to use for the border? 
2. What is the best way to anchor the border of the pad to prevent it from shifting?
3. What would be the best material for the gravel? Pea gravel, Crushed rock
4. How deep does the gravel need to be? RV has a 19,500 GVW
5. Will I need some kind pads for the tires to sit on in stead of directly on the gravel?
6. How far do I need to extend the pad on each side of the tires? (Width)

The soil here is a light brown clay that is like concrete when the weather is dry and softens up considerably when we get heavy rain.

Thanks
 
Rob,

When we lived in a clay soil area I used 8-12" of crushed rock. For the pad itself I poured reinforced concrete on top of the crushed rock but, since you don't wish to do that, you might want to stay at the high end of those numbers and add some decorative rock, which is what I did for the "driveway" to the side yard.

Since I excavated, I didn't need a border. Crushed rock will compact pretty well, so you shouldn't need anything under the tires. If you wish to ensure it's compacted, you can rent a machine that will do that.

Rather than a pad, you could create a couple of strips, which save money on the materials.

We have one or more prior topics on this, so you might wish to use the Advanced search link above to see the various options suggested by forum members, including perforated concrete blocks and railroad ties.
 
Tom,

Thanks, As far as the border was concerned I was looking for something that would keep the gravel from spreading into the yard and not be ruined by the weight of the RV pushing on it .I was also planning to use a powered sod cutter to excavate about 8 - 12 " down. Takes a couple of passes but is a lot easier than trying to dig it out and a lot cheaper than having a back-hoe come in. Although not as quick.

Thanks and I'll will check out the other posts.
 
1. What material would be the best to use for the border?
2. What is the best way to anchor the border of the pad to prevent it from shifting? 

In similar situations I have used a brick border to keep the gravel from wandering into the yard.  Dunno about that for resisting load.  Maybe concrete blocks would be better in terms of expense. 

3. What would be the best material for the gravel? Pea gravel, Crushed rock

I like 3/4" crushed rock for its balance of packing and permeability.

4. How deep does the gravel need to be? RV has a 19,500 GVW

Since you are just parking the load, I think 12" ought to do it.  A lot will depend on the bearing strength of your soil.  However, if the stuff compacts too much under load, just add some more gravel.  However, in the glacial loess in Alaska, I have seen several truck loads of gravel disappear into a 50 foot stretch of farm road.
Check out the foot paths and gravel driveways in your area.

5. Will I need some kind pads for the tires to sit on in stead of directly on the gravel?

If you do, you had better start buying a better brand of tires.  ;D  The answer is, no.

6. How far do I need to extend the pad on each side of the tires? (Width)

How good a parker are you?



 
Railroad ties would make an attractive heavy border to contain the stone.  You'll be excavating at least that deep anyway.
 
When I widened my driveway to accomodate my motorhome I excavated 6" deep and had the gravel truck deliver and spread large gravel (he called it L size stone) for the first 4". After compacting it he delivered and spread normal driveway gravel over the top. He stated that the L gravel wouldn't sink into the earth as readily and the normal stone would give a smooth surface. I contained the new area with those landscape timbers you get at the homecenter. I had to stack them 3 high so I held them together by drilling holes through them and securing them with lengths of concrete reinforcing rod. This way I can either add another layer or take them apart easily.


Woody
 
Our driveway had to be raised about 20" in the back because our yard slopes and we wanted the mh to sit level.  DH used railroad ties as the frame.  Rebar holds the ties together.  We used about 20 yds of the driveway fill that is popular in north TX which is pretty much caliche.  It's in our back yard.  We live on a corner so we back in from a side street. 

The back tires are almost to the end of the driveway in the back.  The back end of the dp hangs over the raised driveway which makes it fairly easy for dh to sit under there to change the oil.  Our dog likes to sit under there too. 


ETA - I can see now that he also added a few pieces of pipe around the outside edges to help hold the railroad ties in, and the pipes were set in concrete.  We put solar tiki lights into the pipes on the side that faces the house.







 
Carl L,

5. Will I need some kind pads for the tires to sit on in stead of directly on the gravel?
If you do, you had better start buying a better brand of tires.  ;D  The answer is, no.

I'm not sure why I would need a better set of tires when parked on a pad than on gravel.

6. How far do I need to extend the pad on each side of the tires? (Width)
How good a parker are you?

I am more concerned with side compression of the gravel than my parking ability.  ;)

 
robfogle said:
...I'm not sure why I would need a better set of tires when parked on a pad than on gravel.
I think he meant that if the gravel cut up your tires, then you needed better tires.
 
robfogle said:
I'm not sure why I would need a better set of tires when parked on a pad than on gravel.

Read it backwards, I did.  The answer is still no tho.

I am more concerned with side compression of the gravel than my parking ability.  ;)

Well, aren't you going to border the thing?   Actually the person to ask is someone in your area familiar with your soils, like a paving contractor.   Your local building department might be a source of information too.

 
Hey Rob, how about taking some 'before, during and after' photos.
 
Just a thought but have you priced having a contractor put in concrete for you?

I found that the cost of concrete (wanted parking for my boat) was not much above the cost for gravel when I used a large company that would do the work when they had a little down time as long as I was prepared to wait for their convenience.  A matter of weeks so well worth it.

 
I used what we call ABC (aggregate base course) for my rv pad. this is a calculated mixture of sand and gravel - the same as used in some areas under asphalt paving. it's been nearly 10 years - and although mine was a buildup - the results should last a long time anywhere. under watering and compaction, this has become VERY hard. any materials yard usually has it on hand for roadway and parking lot contractors.
 
joester said:
I used what we call ABC (aggregate base course) for my rv pad. this is a calculated mixture of sand and gravel - the same as used in some areas under asphalt paving. it's been nearly 10 years - and although mine was a buildup - the results should last a long time anywhere. under watering and compaction, this has become VERY hard. any materials yard usually has it on hand for roadway and parking lot contractors.


What did you use to border it with?

Thanks
 
being a buildup pad - I have no hard border. I have sloped it down to the dirt around it. I plan on having a grader/landscape tractor come in this winter, and knock it down for me a few inches, so I can cover it with decomposed granite to match the rest of the yard. this way, it has a gentle slope rising up to finished grade.
if you plan on building it up more than 6 inches , which I did, I used some large river rock (2-4" size) as a base below to buildup the ABC to within about 6" below my finished grade. the ABC penetrates the river rock well, and also
stabilizes the rocks. the slope is very gentle, and I have placed 2"x12" wood boards about 2 1/2 feet wide flat in the ABC for where my tires end up- giving plenty of extra room for the differences in where the rv ends up after I drive it into my backyard.
 

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