Winter Storage and my batteries
- Thread starter ksmoody
- Start date
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Arch Hoagland
Well-known member
I have mine plugged in all the time, however I used to check the batteries every month for water usage.
I switched to AGM batteries several months ago and now I don't have to worry about the water levels.
Been plugged in for 13 years so I don't think it hurts anything provided you check your batteries.
I switched to AGM batteries several months ago and now I don't have to worry about the water levels.
Been plugged in for 13 years so I don't think it hurts anything provided you check your batteries.
Larry N.
Well-known member
You don't give any indication about age. A lot of older units had single stage chargers that would run a battery dry fairly soon. More recent units mostly have decent 3-stage chargers which will do just fine over extended periods.
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
My take on extended storage, as copied from another forum:
I shut off the salesman switch, leave the RV disconnected from mains, and use a battery tender. My logic is this - if I leave the RV plugged in the converter and every circuit in the RV is energized. I'm basing it on faith that the converter will be putting out the correct voltage based on temperature, that all the energized devices operate fault free, and that any surge or spike that comes into the AC line will never cause a failure to the converter or energized devices. If you believe all of those things are possible with unattended equipment for months at a time, you have WAY more faith than me. With the RV unplugged and the switch off I've now isolated the RV from the hazards of the AC mains, and the only connected device is a $35 tender which only does one thing and they do it well. Could it fail? Sure. But I would rather have that fail and possibly end up with a dead set of batteries than a fried converter and other equipment AND dead batteries. ... If I have to leave something unattended to chance, it would be a lone mains connected tender and not a mains connected MH.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
I shut off the salesman switch, leave the RV disconnected from mains, and use a battery tender. My logic is this - if I leave the RV plugged in the converter and every circuit in the RV is energized. I'm basing it on faith that the converter will be putting out the correct voltage based on temperature, that all the energized devices operate fault free, and that any surge or spike that comes into the AC line will never cause a failure to the converter or energized devices. If you believe all of those things are possible with unattended equipment for months at a time, you have WAY more faith than me. With the RV unplugged and the switch off I've now isolated the RV from the hazards of the AC mains, and the only connected device is a $35 tender which only does one thing and they do it well. Could it fail? Sure. But I would rather have that fail and possibly end up with a dead set of batteries than a fried converter and other equipment AND dead batteries. ... If I have to leave something unattended to chance, it would be a lone mains connected tender and not a mains connected MH.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I don't know what converter/charger was used in a 2008 Tioga, but I would not leave it plugged in 24/7 unless it's a 3-stage charger. The brand & model of converter would tell us that if you don't know the answer. Single stage chargers too often overcharge if left connected for weeks at a time. Of course, you could just plug the coach in part-time, as long as you remember to plug & unplug every couple weeks.
An alternative is to leave the coach unconnected and use an inexpensive multi-stage charger instead. Just hook the charger to the house battery(s) with its clips leads and plug in the charger. Something like this Die Hard unit:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077742Y1H/
An alternative is to leave the coach unconnected and use an inexpensive multi-stage charger instead. Just hook the charger to the house battery(s) with its clips leads and plug in the charger. Something like this Die Hard unit:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077742Y1H/
Rene T
Site Team
Gary RV_Wizard said:
I use to use a timer connected to the converter. I had it set so It would run 1 hour every day.
HappyWanderer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2014
- Posts
- 2,967
Our 2008 Jayco had a 3-stage charger, so it?s likely that another unit of the same vintage would as well.
That rig was plugged in for the entire 11 years we owned it.
That rig was plugged in for the entire 11 years we owned it.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Yes, the WFCO 98xxseries is 3-stage. Plug her in and relax! If you have flooded cell batteries (removable caps), do check the fluid level once in awhile though.
D
Dan23
Guest
I'm going to have to note the brand and model of my RV's charger to see if it's a 3-stage. (Probably isn't.)Gary RV_Wizard said:
On my RV there's sticker near the batteries saying to disconnect the cables if an external charger is used.
D
Dan23
Guest
I checked the converter/charger in my unit and even though it's 21 years old, it does charge, then shut off and monitor the batteries. I took a photo of the labels in the rig at the charger so I could see them better and that is where I found the info. The unit is a MagneTec 6345, if that helps the OP or anyone.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The Magnetek 63xx series of converter/charger is a notorious battery destroyer, consistently over-charging a battery if left on 24/7 for weeks at a time. I think you will find that it maintains a constant float charge and never shuts off.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Dan23 said:
The 6345 does NOT shut off. It charges (Very slowly) then slows down a bit more but it never shuts off. That is why it is famous for boiling batteries dry in as little as 1-2 weeks.
page 2
Many have had them fail and replaced the GUTS with somethign like the Progressive Dynamics 4635.
The best 3 stage converter made in my not very humble opinion (OR rather one of them, PD makes several functionally identically models, 9200, 9100 WITH optional wizard all same as 4600)
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
I have a 6345 in my Itasca. As built it's not the greatest converter you could have. When I got my Itasca I noted that both house batteries were only a couple years old but shot, and the converter made noise that wasn't the fan (which made it's own special noise...). Being an electronics guy I pulled it out and fixed it up. It was choked with dust, the electrolytic caps were bulging and leaking and the section of circuit board that holds ballast resistors was well roasted. After going through it the phantom noises were gone and it put out spec amps into discharged batteries. While I was at it I fabricated a remote control for it to manually switch between bulk, float and equalize. Point of all this is my 6345 was 15 years old and failing, one at 20+ years is definitely on borrowed time. I gave mine a second lease on life but even when working right it doesn't compare to modern form/fit/function replacement (PD, et al). In my opinion don't pass go or collect $200, buy a new converter.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
D
Dan23
Guest
Well, I guess I'm okay for now since I don't have it (the Magnetek 6345) plugged in constantly. I periodically plug the RV in for a few hours. I'd like more examples of better converter/chargers and what do I need to know to change it over? I suppose there are just 3 wires to connect and the new unit will have to fit where the old one does. Thanks for the comments above.
X
X-Roughneck
Guest
ksmoody said:
Interesting read from my perspective. Which is?I have my motor home 10 feet from my back door and don't own a charger at all. We are brand new to this adventure. We are 5 months into a very long journey we hope.
My question to the board is Do I really even need one?
My Rig is 2017, It has Factory everything so I already have decided when that time comes I am going AGM batts. I am going thru the, ?Fill the battery cells Adventure / Possible Mis-Adventure,? with each and every lovely cell on my batts during my PMCS, when filling my cells with distilled water.
Our reality is, We go out for a week to three and come home. When I am home I based that as Day # 0 on a 30 day count down to the day I exercise my gen set under load.
My rig has currently a 100w panel ZAMP, upgradable to 510w max, 3 panel input solar installed on the roof.
I only have 2 coach batts, Marine deep cycle 31, I think?
We currently like to stay full hook up, so with Distilled water refilling and 100 watt providing a trickle charge, so far so go. I want AGM but want to get all the good out of what is currently taking us to the dance. For a lack of better terms.
Opinion, anyone?
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
Your solar panel is more than enough to perform a maintenance charge between trips. And, there's no more cost effective a battery than the one you have that works. Even though you already have a transition plan I'd use your current setup to get familiar with how the system behaves under your usage conditions. The only comment I have is I'm into my 2nd season with my current set of GC-2's and I have yet to add water to them. If you're adding much water to yours this early in their life I'd review the charge profile and make sure you're not overcharging them. It's normal for batteries to require more water as they approach end of life (commensurate with a decrease in capacity) but they use very little when new(er).X-Roughneck said:
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Arch Hoagland
Well-known member
X-Roughneck asked "My question to the board is Do I really even need one?"
Absolutely Positively YES!
Things happen so you need to be prepared.
Absolutely Positively YES!
Things happen so you need to be prepared.
X
X-Roughneck
Guest
In response to both Mark and Arch
I hear you about the batteries. This year was in the Nuclear Hot Category down here. I was desert Landscaping my front yard and I was hiding behind a telephone pole for shade hot. I just had to laugh. Fat man hiding behind a telephone pole for shade. In my back yard I have only poured my concrete as of now, with no cover from the sun. I need to check because they needed a drink when we got back after our first trip. Been more cool so should be a better read on H20 this time.
Arch. I ultimately plan on adding 2 each 170Watt panels. The existing 100W on the roof will give me 440 Watt. The ZAMP 30 Amp Controller is capable of 510 Watt input. I need to check out how much available real estate is on the roof, getting up there with a Tape Measure in Hand.
Now, Needing a charger, I agree with you I might need one for the Ford OK, I buy into that. I know when the time comes I am going AGM there too. I wanted to do the Battle Born Stuff, but not sure that is necessary. We like accommodations and Full Connect RV Parks, Dog Runs etc. We have never BLM and I will not until at least new, Fresh AGM in the rack, then a maybe depends on the area temp.
I hear you about the batteries. This year was in the Nuclear Hot Category down here. I was desert Landscaping my front yard and I was hiding behind a telephone pole for shade hot. I just had to laugh. Fat man hiding behind a telephone pole for shade. In my back yard I have only poured my concrete as of now, with no cover from the sun. I need to check because they needed a drink when we got back after our first trip. Been more cool so should be a better read on H20 this time.
Arch. I ultimately plan on adding 2 each 170Watt panels. The existing 100W on the roof will give me 440 Watt. The ZAMP 30 Amp Controller is capable of 510 Watt input. I need to check out how much available real estate is on the roof, getting up there with a Tape Measure in Hand.
Now, Needing a charger, I agree with you I might need one for the Ford OK, I buy into that. I know when the time comes I am going AGM there too. I wanted to do the Battle Born Stuff, but not sure that is necessary. We like accommodations and Full Connect RV Parks, Dog Runs etc. We have never BLM and I will not until at least new, Fresh AGM in the rack, then a maybe depends on the area temp.
