E-450 chassis starting battery

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Cuervo1

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Anyone have any advice on replacement battery for starting battery?

Is an AGM a good option? Or should I just go with the OEM  Motorcraft? Or the less expensive Wal-Mart battery.

What is your past experience with battery brands? Does it even matter, since they are all manufactured by the same company?
 
Can users on this forum bookmark threads so we can return to them periodically?  I don't see the button to click?

John
 
Jose,  I am going AGM when the time comes.  I wanted to follow the pack with cash and go Battle Born, Lithium ION but my Gen set relies on the house batts to cranks the set.  Battle Born are not designed with large CCA to turn over the starter.  Would they do it?  I have no clue.

AGM is in my wheel house $$ price wise.  The aspect of the AGM to me is the No Maint when it comes to adding Distilled water. 

I only have 2 coach batts.  The filling of cells are such a PITA to deal with because of the cheap install at the factory.  Probably saved Winnebago a few bucks per unit in making the cables just barely long enough to slide out where you can service them.  Makes for a pain to fill the cells. 

I am going AGM on the ford too when the time comes.

I got a BBQ Marinade Syringe and some Vacuum hose that fit the tip so I can surgically add water without creating a Acidic mess.

Right now my goal is to run the current set until they crater/
 

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Check the cranking amp specification for your generator. It is probably fairly low. Much lower than engine cranking. You could also consider changing the generator starting duty to the chassis battery. That would present a different set of circumstances but may work fine with your habits.

Cheap Starting batteries at wally world are fine. I personally use a deep cycle standard lead acid for my 454 coach starting and 2 larger ones for the house. I hadn't planned on the deep cycle for the chassis. It just worked out that way and it's been great. I also like the idea of having additional deep cycle battery power if I need it. The starting battery is a little light for cranking but I am never in cold weather so it's kicked the engine over every time for the past couple years. I think the battery is 4 years old.

I am not aware of any disadvantages of using the sealed agm batteries. I have never used them. My old school thinking likes to keep the standard type wet and maintenanced and it has always worked well for me.
 
There is little advantage to using AGM for a chassis battery - you should get 5-6 years of use from a typical flooded cell cranking battery anyway. The brief discharge followed by quick recharge from the engine alternator is where flooded cells perform best.  And the packed thin plate structure of a cranking battery is more suitable to the flooded design than AGM, though the difference isn't major.

I'd choose a sealed flooded cell automotive cranking battery to maximize the tradeoff between longevity, price and maintenance. The Motorcraft size spec'ed for an E450 is a good choice, but a Walmart Everstart (typically made by Exide) with the same size and CCA is probably equally good. Lead-acid batteries are pretty much a commodity these days.
I think the E450 with a V10 calls for a Group 65 size battery with a CCA rating of 750. If you don't ever need to start the motorhome in sub-freezing temperatures, a lower CCA is probably fine as well and you can save a few bucks. An MCA (not CCA) rating is good down to 32 F, which is usually sufficient for motorhome owners.
 
A normal maintenance free starting battery.  They last a few years and no need to water them.
 
A Battery is only as good as its warranty, I believe.
We used Interstate for years. 

The Cheap battery from Walmart has its advantages. There are WalMarts everywhere, these days, so if it fails, it is easy to get it replaced, and their warranty is top-notch.

I went with an AGM this time because the shop I take my rig to made a great deal on it, and it is warranteed through CarQuest, almost as far ranging as WalMart.
I wanted to see how the AGM performs over time.

Just avoid those remanufatured things.
 
I'm with Gary. I just use lead-acid. Although I have been told that AGM last longer, I get about 3 years out of them and I get about 4-5 years out of lead-acid. I am not sure why, but I see no justification of the price for AGM unless you are offroading with your E450 and making it bounce around a ton.
 
Is it possible that the advertised longer life of a sealed lead acid is mostly due to the fact that operators don't keep up with the maintenance of water levels?
 
Henry J Fate said:
Is it possible that the advertised longer life of a sealed lead acid is mostly due to the fact that operators don't keep up with the maintenance of water levels?
Click to expand...
Those are considered maintenance free. Sealed batteries are to prevent fluid or vapor spills. My buick has the battery under the back seat, so I either need a sealed battery or one that has a certain type of vent so I can connect the exhaust hose to let the fumes escape.
 
They are are sold under dozens of private labels but almost all car or truck batteries in the USA are made by Johnson, Exide, or East Penn. They all come off the same manufacturing lines. Just have a different brand label and sometimes a longer warranty. Interstate and Walmart batteries used to be made by Johnson but now are made by Exide. Switching suppliers is common so you can't go by your past history with one brand name.
 
Yes but I believe I have read some where that the sealed maintenance free have a longer useful life than the standard lead acid. I thought maybe that was partially due to the maintenance task of keeping water levels correct. A task which can easily be ignored or just inadequate intervals of adding water. I wonder because all the standard batteries that I have cared for from new have always had more than 5 years of service some quite a bit longer depending on a few variables. All required the chore of adding water and I have never waited until the batteries were unusable before replacement. I would notice the capacity dropping off some and would eventually make the switch.
.
 
I still believe down here this past August leading up until we went to Rushmore late September it was so Blast Furnace Hot 107 F, we had a string of days 100+.  It seems that had to account for some evaporation or water loss in the cells.  The next time I filled it, 2 Oz per cell on all batts outside temp was still fairly hot that time. We like full hook ups so far, but trying to PMCS the gear to make it last. 

I really need to relook at possibly having some new cables made slightly longer for the coach batts.  I have batt slide extension capable movement, but the rack is tethered by batt cable tension by MFG trying to save a bit of cash in copper wire. 
 
X-Roughneck.  Battery cables.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/00-gauge-battery-cables-2-0-awg.html

 
Thanks for all the info. I guess the consensus is that one is as good as another for chassis starting battery as long as the CCA is sufficient.

After checking the date code on the Interstate battery I have, which will not hold a charge,I think free replacement is in order.

The date code is: I7, which I believe is September 2017. If so guess I'll have a new Interstate MTP65 850 CCA.

Glad I didn't buy the Motorcraft !
 
:))
stvaughn said:
X-Roughneck.  Battery cables.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/00-gauge-battery-cables-2-0-awg.html
Click to expand...

Thanks, ST. You can bet when I go thru the headache of replacement, new, longer cables will be in order.  I think I could add a few " without creating cable a pile, or loosening up problem when I slide the tray back it.

 
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