TV antenna cable broke

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coy55boyrv

coy55boyrv

Active member
Joined
Aug 4, 2019
Posts
27
Location
Tucson, AZ
I've noticed reception on my TV deteriorating recently and suddenly it was nonexistent. I thought it might the the TV tuner, but when a connected a set of old rabbit ears - voila! So, I began testing the cable. Everything checked out OK from the TV through a splitter to the distribution box to the signal amplifier. After concluding that the loss must occur between the signal amp and the antenna, I climbed on the roof with a spare cable and bypassed the built in cable. Worked. Upon closer inspection, I found the break down at the bottom of the mast. So I figure I need to pull a new cable from the signal amp to the antenna. The thing is, the cable at the signal amp is different from the cable on the roof. Is there another connection point someplace that I can access? I'm thinking there might be one inside the coach under the antenna?

edit by staff - changed message icon to topic solved
 
Did you bypass the section in the walls or the length running from the roof to the antenna?  There should be a F connector where the coax comes out of the roof - you may have to dig through the weatherproofing gunk to find it.  Usually the piece from the roof to the antenna is the one that breaks from flexing back and forth - coax really isn't made for repeated flexing.
 
As Lou said, there's typically an F connector hiding in the caulk at the roof entry point. And just an FYI, the amplifier is actually in the antenna housing on the roof. The part inside the RV is just a power injector...
 
coy55boyrv said:
The thing is, the cable at the signal amp is different from the cable on the roof. Is there another connection point someplace that I can access? I'm thinking there might be one inside the coach under the antenna?
Click to expand...
Possible? I'd say positively if you have different wires inside to outside. pull apart the antenna stuff on the inside and have a look see at the wire, it will at least give you an idea to where the splice/ wire change is.
If you get the notion of tugging on the wire in your ceiling, ty a string on both ends just in case it trys to pull out. Not saying coax can't go bad but 99% of the time the fault lies with a connector.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately, there was no 'F' connector at the base. It only 'looked like' 2 different cables because a previous owner/mechanic had stripped off the outer layer of insulation. It now looks like one continuous run of cable from the top of the antenna to the forward electronics cabinet. Rather than trying to fish in a complete new cable, I'm going to try to splicing onto the cable extending out of the roof (about 5") to effect repairs. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have to purchase an omnidirectional antenna and install it behind the TV.
 
You can splice coax cable but it will change the cable's performance (without getting too technical) somewhat but perhaps it's worth trying. You need to solder the inner conductor and insulate with shrink tuning. Then join the two braided shields and carefully solder around where they join. The braid (or shield) might be very difficult to solder due to oxidation and contamination, using extra flux (you can get it in a small tube) made for electronics - in other words don't use plumbing flux.

You will need to do a bit of planning to have extra braided shield on the two ends so they meet but you might not have enough coax to work with. If this was my RV, I would run all new RG59 coax.
 
The preferred method to connect two pieces of coax is to put a connector on each end and use a barrel connector to join them.  Weatherproof the connection and secure it to the roof so flexing happens in the cable, not at the connection.
 
Lou Schneider said:
The preferred method to connect two pieces of coax is to put a connector on each end and use a barrel connector to join them.  Weatherproof the connection and secure it to the roof so flexing happens in the cable, not at the connection.
Click to expand...

This is the plan I'm working on. If it doesn't work, I'll probably have to pull a new cable through the roof. Is that difficult? Or should I hire the job out?
 
Lou's idea is the better one rather than soldering. Fishing (running) wire in an RV is always a challenge, I doubt if you can use the existing cable to pull new since the existing is most likely fastened down. Do a survey of how you run new cable, even if some of it is exposed you can use plastic or wood mouldings to hide it.
 
Thanks again for all your help. I was able to complete repairs at minimal cost. The only thing I had to buy was a boot to cover the nipple protruding through the roof. The original looked like what you'd find on a distributor cap to attach the coil cable. Couldn't find one. So, I bought rubber furniture leg caps that had the right inside diameter and drilled a hole in the top for the antenna cable to go through. I secured the cap by twisting copper wire around the outside to prevent the cap from slipping off. Then wrapped self-fusing silicone tape around the cap and then onto the cable. I had to use two different sizes of 'F' connectors due to the differences between the old and new cable. Then wrapped all that with more silicone tape. Works great!
 

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Yup. That is exactly what I have coming up soon. I have been milking whats up there for awhile and planning on replacing at some point. So far it is still working properly.

It doesn't look like you have any protection around the splice (double female and 2 males). Are you planning to cover that up with something or just leave it open?

Thanks for the pictures.
 
Henry J Fate said:
It doesn't look like you have any protection around the splice (double female and 2 males). Are you planning to cover that up with something or just leave it open?
Click to expand...
I wrapped it with more of the self-fusing silicone tape.

Henry J Fate said:
Thanks for the pictures.
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I should have taken a final shot, but my phone was out of film... ;)
 
Glad you wrapped it up. I think I would have used some GE silicone on the male connector antenna side. That connector looks primed to take in water if the wrap lets anything through.

I did not have a chance to read the entire thread and had one other question.

Did you put the double female up on the roof thinking of future repairs? I had initially thought that a solid run from the coach, through the roof and to the anrenna would be best. I think thats the way the original wiring is.
 
Henry J Fate said:
I did not have a chance to read the entire thread and had one other question.

Did you put the double female up on the roof thinking of future repairs? I had initially thought that a solid run from the coach, through the roof and to the anrenna would be best. I think thats the way the original wiring is.
Click to expand...

Henry, if you did read the rest of the discussion you'd know the original wiring failed and the splice was to avoid having to replace the wiring going through the RV walls.  It's a good repair, IMO.
 
Ya I would say it is a great fix. I was hoping that somehow I could get any splice below the roof. Mine is coming soon. I guess I will dig into that when the time comes. I am sure it is much more difficult to get a splice below the roof which was basically my question. 
 
The only thing I might do differently is to mechanically support the splice so it doesn't flex, either attaching it to something sticking up from the roof or bending the original wire around so the splice lays on the roof itself.  This would place all of the flex in the section between the splice and the antenna, so in the future you'd just have to replace that piece.
 
That would help. A little mast to attach it too. I have never been up on the roof while the antenna is being rotated. I may just do that during my up coming roof clean.
 
The best way to waterproof that connection is to use Stuf Dielectric Waterproofing Grease

https://www.amazon.com/Stuf-STUF-Dielectric-Dielectric-Waterproofing-Grease/dp/B00SS1J4JG

Mechanically, you don't have to worry about the connection. Taping is up for debate. Sometimes it traps moisture. The best solution would be adhesive shrink wrap. I spent 15 years in the Outside Plant side of a telecommunications company in NW Minnesota and North Dakota. We used Stuf in all of our outdoor connections, especially Wireless Internet. Stuf keeps the moisture out.
 
John Hilley said:
The best way to waterproof that connection is to use Stuf Dielectric Waterproofing Grease
Click to expand...

Thanks for that suggestion, John. Just wish you had posted earlier. Now I have to get on the roof again. That stuf makes sense!
 
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