Adding a new circuit... Why not ROMEX?

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_Rusty_

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I want to split a circuit on the house and see all the other circuits are stranded. Can I assume that is for flexibility and would solid be acceptable?  My goal is to separate the washer and dryer. For whatever reason they are on the same Breaker. Any thoughts?
 
My coach is wired from the factory with a mix of Romex (NM-B) as well as THWN with Romex running through the SCD (Self Contained Device) outlets.
 
Both Romex with solid wire and  the various types of stranded wire have their pros and cons.  The greater flexibility of stranded wire has some pluses where there is a lot of vibration and structural movement, but well-secured Romex or unshielded solid wire are fine too. I'd make the call entirely based on where the wires run - Romex is convenient anywhere that movement is not a risk.

A combo washer dryer typically has one common power cord and uses one breaker. If you have separate washer and dryer, I'd expect them to be served by separate breakers, even if the dryer is operating on 120v.  Be aware, though, that separate breakers makes it easier for you to overload the shore power source and trip the coach main breaker or the site pedestal breaker rather than the branch circuit.
 
As long as you use the proper gage wire and proper cable connectors and end wire connectors I would do it.
I have added miscellaneous 120 volt lighting here and there in our new trailer and tapped off 120 volt outlets. I changed out the outlets to shallow wall boxes with  the side extension and ran non metallic sheathed cable, (Romex) to each fixture. I have done this in five places.

jack L
 
My rig also has lots of romex in it from the factory.
Surprised me...well not really, because our popup tent trailer did too so I suppose that one surprised me.... As I understand it it's not used in boats as a standard because of the movement and potential for breaking wires.  How is this thing really any different?
I suppose if it was completely secured and supported...like glued along its full length to a board or structure, then the wire wouldn't really move.... but as it is, the romex is stapled at intervals, so in between those staple the wire is free to move around. 
Oh well, that's all just me dissecting the theoretical concern....and if I were specifying an RV from the ground up I most likely wouldn't have it....BUT...  Reality is it's been used in RV's for probably many billions of miles on the road and it hasn't been too much of a problem.
 
I wasn't too concerned except movement at the joints (receptacle and fuse panel). Used wire ties and followed the washer drain along up to the panel area, so it shouldn't move any more than that pipe does. Also wasn't concerned about Amp rating as dryer was only 7 A, just wanted to separate them in case one caused a blowout the other could keep running. Thanks for all the input! ?
 
True that - Boats use stranded A/C due to potential vibration flexing and movement.

For OP I think solid would work fine but I am picky and like standards so I'd personally run flex. As an ex-boat geek I do everything to ABYC standards...

The other idea is power management. As you split circuits you have the potential to eventually have combinations that over flow the main breaker. Of course you could do that now but it is food for thought.

On A/C you have the basics (reefer, water heater, etc.) running all the time & A/C is a priority. So if doing a wash and a dry simultaneously with the A/C running and someone pops a hot pocket in the micro you'd pop a breaker for sure on 30amp.

blw2 said:
As I understand it it's not used in boats as a standard because of the movement and potential for breaking wires.  How is this thing really any different?
I suppose if it was completely secured and supported...like glued along its full length to a board or structure, then the wire wouldn't really move.... but as it is, the
 
This is the sort of question that is easily subject to over-thinking, what my Grandma would have termed "making a mountain of a mole hill".  The decision can be made on fairly gross factors and doesn't require in-depth engineering debate.

Solid wire is cheaper and more durable but less flexible. Stranded is flexible but more expensive and more subject to corrosion. These are tradeoffs that have to balanced against each other for a specific use. In this case, the amount of flexibility is probably the key concern. If the wire needs to make tight turns or crosses a joint that is subject to movement, stranded has the advantage. If largely straight runs or where the wire can make a sweeping turn instead of a sharp bend, solid wires bundled in sheathed cables are fine.

Maybe this article will help:

https://blog.jemelectronics.com/stranded-vs-solid-wire
 

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