M&G Original Brake System (Class C Hydraulic W/ M&G Air Conversion Kit)

Recently purchased a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited that was "plumbed" < air quotes, for towing and braking.  Came with a Roadmaster Blackhawk 2, 10,000 LB Tow bar also.

After we purchased the Jeep we found a informative YouTube video published, by some Great Texans that really showcase our states natural treasures, Parks, and just great tips for new RVrs like ourselves.

M&G was designed back in the 1980s by a man who was a retired engineer.  I am linking a good video for those who may be searching for a reliable, safe breaking system.  In this video they show their in house machined parts etc.  The person at M&G states they have never had a failure of their system.  Pretty bold claim, but none the less a pretty cool video.  May be of interest to some.

Here is the link "RV Texas Ya'LL" posted on YT:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkTy6XPT2S8

We are having the "factory" install the Air for hydraulic kit, as our Class C needs the air supplement (Thanks John From Detroit) for throwing that Bone of info our way.

Here is also a link to a guy who I feel did a fabulous DIY install of that supplemental Hydraulic/Air system on his Class C....Fast Forward to 11 Minute mark of the below video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5ED3CvKFuU

Here is my only reservation about this supplemental air system...The one gallon air tank.  Definitely don't want to ride the brake in my mind or it will deplete the pressure in the tank.

I for one like the idea of throwing less that $1000 for parts and a pro install of this system.

Does anyone have any opinions on the set up I have with the supplemental air kit? Pitfalls, or possibly their own accounts of their M&G system?  Would love to hear opinions.

JD

The M&G brake is well-regarded and it's only drawback is that it requires actual modification of the vehicle braking system, so great care in installation is a must.

The one gallon air tank is a buffer, intended to handle any short term mismatches between compressor output and demand. I doubt if even a long downhill would be a problem.

Gary RV_Wizard said:

The M&G brake is well-regarded and it's only drawback is that it requires actual modification of the vehicle braking system, so great care in installation is a must.

The one gallon air tank is a buffer, intended to handle any short term mismatches between compressor output and demand. I doubt if even a long downhill would be a problem.

Click to expand...

Thanks Gary for Chiming in on the subject. Your opinion is always highly valued by me.

The Jeep came wired for brake Lights at the tow base plate to rear lights, Break away, and the the Braking Gizmo is connected to the master cylinder.  Previous owner had things professionally installed.

The light cable the seller provided me as Jeep Swag was a 4 Pin to 4 Pin which he used on his motor home.

I had bought a 7 blade to 4 pin Prefab coiled cable off the internet on some Jeep site, clean looking cable that did not plug and play as I hoped.  Jeeps Lights were not acting correctly.

I had a young man at Uhaul give things the once over with his test light.  We ended up putting a new receptacle on the base plate and 2 wires had to be swapped on the plug and also on a relay looking thing that was part of the tow wiring under the rear tail lamp assy. 

The guy at Uhaul said it is not unusual and he sees all kinds of butchery.  He said the wiring job was very clean and professionally installed.  Not sure as to why the wires were crossed, but I am sure it worked with the sellers DP.  Uhaul guy also said he does not see many 4 PIN connectors any more, but he got things sorted out and functional quick. 

I have a near term appointment in Athens TX at M&G for the install of the M&G Air Supplemental system and Monte at M&G said he would do a systems check to make sure it is all Good To Go.  I can tow legally in the state of TX with no supplemental braking as I am under the threshold weight. 

To me I said heck no as a DIY project when it called for parting the Hydraulic brake line and putting the T Fitting to loop the hydraulic fluid to the valve on the real end.  Some things are better left to the Pros. I dang sure don't want to air up my brake lines / system on the motor home.

On another note, I see you are creeping up on 70,000 posts.  Amazing!  Thank you for taking time to help out the Fools....Like Me. 

Gary, You have my respect and admiration. 

I got my eye on securing that 100,000th reply from you. 

JD 

I take a few hours or more to install Roadmaster but anyone decent with a vehicle can do it themselves. It?s difficult to find places on the vehicle to install the pieces of equipment. However, it works excellent and is extremely easy and small to set up and take out for towing. An excellent option for those with diesel rig/air brakes and works in proportion to how hard you push the brake in the rig to get stopped. That is especially helpful when towing something heavier than a little car in traffic. About half the price of that huge brake box that can fail the camper stores sell. Definitely a great decision/purchase.
https://www.smartrving.net/best-towed-vehicle-braking-systems/

I have had my M&G system for 11 years now and have" swapped it" over and used the same system on two Jeep Liberty's
  with no problems..  I love the ease of attachment and reliability of this system..  When using the service brakes I can "feel" the Jeep doing it's part of the job and it's particularly effective when in a "panic" stop..>>>Dan