Workhorse W20 Brake Caliper Issue

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OpenRoads

OpenRoads

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Aug 8, 2007
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Lost In America!
This may help some folks with the Workhorse.

NHTSA Action Number :
PE07032
Make/Models: Model/Build Years:
Workhorse W20 2000?2005
Manufacturer :
Workhorse Custom Chassis
Component :
Service Brakes, Hydraulic

Summary:

ODI has received reports on model year 2000?2005 Workhorse Chassis recreational vehicles with allegations of overheating disc brake calipers. Owners are claiming that in some cases the brakes begin to drag and lock up. ODI conducted interviews with complainants and several reported that during normal brake pedal applications, the brake linkage binds at a pivot point. The binding may contribute to inadequate release of the calipers causing the calipers to drag and overheat. Some owners also report the brake pedal goes to the floor. Overheating calipers, depending on the severity, may cause brake drag with premature pad wear, brake lockup, wheel end fire and possibly brake fluid boil and evaporation.

For more information, owners may contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at (888) 327? 4236 or visit www.safercar.gov.
Compliments of SamAlert GS club.
 
One thing that many Workhorse owners do not do (I have my lube jobs done at a authorized Workhorse Service Center) is lub the brake caliper pins.  This can cause the same kind of binding the OP posts about.

The reason I go to my Workhorse service center is frankly.. Other than DIY, they give the best pirce in town

(Truck oil changes normally run around 90 bucks here in SE Mich.  OR MORE,  The daler charges me 65 with full synthetic)
 
I have a 1990 Winnebago Elandan built on a Ford chassis.

I bought it in 2003 (with about 70K km on it) as the third owner.

I immediately realised I had a problem of an overheating brake system.  In three years I replaced calipers three times and no Ford dealer could explain what was wrong.

On the last replacement in August 2006 that Ford dealer did the research required to uncover a safety bulletin from early 1990, affecting all chassis built by Feb 1990 and earlier, requiring a reworking of the high pressure hoses in the power steering pump / power brake system.  Why?  Because of the overheating of brakes that would occur even with straight and level driving.  That dealer's techies were able to see the problem: from the time of engine start a piston in the power assisted system did not fully retract and hence the brakes were always "on" to a slight degree.

Ciao,

Doug
 
I have a 1997 Pace arrow 36S on the ford F53 chassis with tag axle.  Last year I made a post here that described my brake overheating and failure.  I suspected it was due to the rig sitting for 18 months prior to my purchase of the unit (it was my first trip).  I am still uncomfortable with the diagnosis which really didn't fully explain things and basically there wasn't a cause determined.  I had both the left front and left duals brakes drag and basically fry.  I am wondering if the issue mentioned above about the 1990 and earlier Ford chassis has any implications for the later Fords (1997 in my case built in 96).  I had new brakes put on the left sides and all the lines flushed at a Ford heavy truck dealer.  I have no idea if they are good or bad with their service so I am at their mercy.  My brakes vary from warm (can leave my hand on the caliper housing) to warm enough that I cannot leave my hand on the calipers comfortably after driving 40 miles.  I don't know what they should be like.  Does anyone have anything further to advise me on?  Should they be cool, warm or hot enough to burn my hand after 40 miles of freeway cruising followed by 4 or 5 stops in the last couple miles on side roads?  This problem has really ruined the fun in RVing for me as I am continually worried about brake failure.
 
Don't know if this is related, I just got back from helping my Brother-In-Law replace the Passenger Side Rear Caliper on his 2004 Winnebago Adventurer.  It was leaking badly.  I belive it is a W22 chassis.

Not a hard job, the biggest problem was getting the tires off and filling the Brake Resevoir, why they put the resevoir so close to the top of the motor compartment beats me.  Obviously they never had to top it off.

While on the subject does anyone have any knowledge of an on-line source for parts look-up and ordering (both chassis and coach) for his Winnebago and my Monaco Diplomat.  I have searched and found nothing.  We had to go to the local Pontiac dealer to order the Caliper.  Any info will be appreciated.
 
You wrote in part (see below) and I offer my comments (I'm not a techie by any stretch of the imagination)

I am wondering if the issue mentioned above about the 1990 and earlier Ford chassis has any implications for the later Fords (1997 in my case built in 96). ...  My brakes vary from warm (can leave my hand on the caliper housing) to warm enough that I cannot leave my hand on the calipers comfortably after driving 40 miles.

That was my experience, except that they were hot, as high as 450F, and typically anywhere between 300 and 400F, after about 20 minutes at highway speeds.

I don't know what they should be like. 

My understanding is that without any use of brakes, less than 200F, closer to a150F .  Since I had my long delayed safety recall performed, even after coming down a hill that required some braking they rarely exceed 300F on the disks.

Does anyone have anything further to advise me on?  Should they be cool, warm or hot enough to burn my hand after 40 miles of freeway cruising followed by 4 or 5 stops in the last couple miles on side roads?  This problem has really ruined the fun in RVing for me as I am continually worried about brake failure.

From my experience I'd say that the problem is that the brakes never come of completely, meaining that you are driving as though you had your foot resting lightly on the brake pedal.  So, from my experience I'd badger a Ford dealership, or even Ford head office, about a service announcement that applies to this situation; if there is one, the next obvious question, was the "fix" ever implemented on your rig.

Ciao,

Doug


 
This problem has really ruined the fun in RVing for me as I am continually worried about brake failure.
Click to expand...
If your brakes are stopping the vehicle properly and don't have a spongy feel to them, and have adequate lining material still on them, you are probably safe and good to go. Depending on your driving style, the calipers will at least be fairly warm, or even too hot to touch. When someone rides the brakes going downhill (or even on a flat), heat build-up will occur in the rotors, the pads, and eventually in the calipers. When the heat in the calipers is greater than the boiling point of the fluid (usually above 400 deg. F., bubbles will form and braking power is substantially reduced. Another phenomenon is that, with excessively hard use, the brake pads will out-gas, and create a thin layer of gas between the pad and rotor, resulting in no braking at all. This happens very rarely, and shouldn't be a big concern. The best thing to do when driving is to keep your foot off of the brake pedal until you need it; then apply moderate to firm pressure to slow the vehicle rather than using a light, constant pressure.
 
Even when Hot, the brakes are certainly not at 400F on the Pace/ford chassis. (when they failed last year I think they were well above that.  I was worried the tires would blow the rims and hubs were so hot!  It was bad).  The pedal was soft and spongy and was a classic situation that the fluid had boiled.  The worst case nowadays since repaired is that the brakes are hot to the touch but don't burn my hand when I put it on the caliper housing for a second or two, it is just uncomfortable and no one would be able to keep their hand on it for longer than a quick touch.  That temp has to be only in the 200 degree range I would guestimate not much above it.  I have searched around and not seen a general trend on this chassis having continual failures.  I hope I am just a worry wart but that was a miserable experience last year and it was our very first trip.  I do appreciate the advice and thoughts and any additional comments anyone has.
 
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