Hints, Tricks and Gadgets/Tools --- small ones.

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Another one, for those with inacurate holdin tank gauges. I found this in the September 08 issue of MotorHome Magazine, pg 76. "Fluid finder."

They say to use a stud finder, laying it on it's side and moving up and down the outside of the tank. It will verify how full the tank is.

I don't have a stud finder and my gauges have always worked just fine, so I can't test it. Somebody with a stud finder, try this out and tell us if it  works!

Ought to be a great idea for someone with a stud finder and innacurate gauges, if it works.  ;D

Ray D  ;D
 
Stud finders detect a change in mass density behind the surface and so can detect liquid levels as well as studs.
 
John In Detroit said:
I fail to see how that can possibly work

Step one: Purchase a new gee whiz stud finder.

Step two: Place stud finder on side of holding tank.

Step three: Move stud finder around on side of tank.

Step four: Be amazed when the light shows you the liquid level.

;D ;D ;D ;D
 
AH, additinal information ELECTRONIC stud finders,  Not magnetic ones

You see. you failed to mention that in the first bost, One of my stud finders is magentic, the other is a metal detector
 
Why would anyone assume a magnetic stud finder would work on liquids ???
 
As i said I have two stud finders, one is magnetic and the other detects metals, Neither is a mass sensor.  Did not know they made 'em that way, easier to look for nails
 
A few items from Georgia...
When I bought our '94 Class A, all of the cabinet doors rattled incessantly while traveling.  I picked up a package of felt pads at walmart (in the hardware section) that had sticky backing.  Put new pads on all of the door/drawer corners and voila!  No more rattles!  ;D  .  Cost ... about $2

The large TV mounted over the center of the front also rattled on bad roads.  I cut a carpet scrap and put it underneath and along the sides (only at the front) of the cabinet enclosure - stopped that noise too.  Cost - nil

I went to Lowes and bought a 'cheap' pull down shade and had it cut to 18".  I then mounted it under the front curtains beside the driver/passenger seats (behind the valence).  Now, when the sun shines in, we can pull the shade down an appropriate amount so we don't get cooked to a crisp.  I mounted them so that the driver's view to the outside mirrors can't be blocked by the pulled down shade.  Cost - about $10

I added similar pull down shades behind the valences in the bedroom - when we end up with a street light shining in the window, we can pull the shade - it still allows air to come through the window if they're open. (We have day/night 'waffle' shades, but they are often not enough.) Cost - about $25

The treadle for my air brakes was at a bad angle for my short stature - I had to tip my toe WAY too far to suit me and had difficulty getting real force if needed for hard braking.  After searching in vain for a way to adjust the angle of the pedal,  I cut a short section of 2 x 4 to an appropriate shape and screwed it to the pedal to get the angle I wanted.  Cost ... zero for scrap 2 x 4  (some day I'll paint it and make it look nice <g>)

I also bought a small foot switch (ordered it online for about $6) and mounted it on top of the 2 x 4 mentioned above (after reshaping the block again <G>).  I routed the normally open output of the switch (closed on activation) in series with the Xtarder switch on the dash.  Now, when I let off the 'gas' pedal, the Xtarder doesn't automatically immediately kick in ... if I WANT the Xtarder, all I have to do is rest my foot on the switch sitting on top of the brake pedal - when I NEED the Xtarder under heavy braking, it's ALWAYS on since it gets activated when I step on the brake.  This replaces the $85 'kit' that allows you to coast with the Xtarder switch in the on position.  It also took about 20 minutes to install instead of the couple of hours to install the kit.  If I turn the Xtarder switch OFF, the foot switch does nothing.

Added electric compartment door locks.  I ordered the locking mechanisms from Parts Express and 'adapted' them to activate the lock.  I added a DPDT momentary switch below the regular light switches by the entry door.  I found some 'hot 12Volts' and wired the switch to activate Plus/Minus in one position and Minus/Plus in the other and routed to all compartment doors.  Now I can lock or unlock the doors  as I go in/out of the RV.  Actually,  I only have locks on the large doors - I have not yet been able to figure out a simple way to mount the (relatively large) activator on the small doors so that it can control the lock.  It still takes care of MOST of the doors.  Cost <$100 plus a few hours of work spent mostly figuring out HOW to mount the activators.

Install small 12v (computer cooling type) fan in refer - punched 2 small holes in bottom of fins and used zip ties to attach fan to bottom blowing up.  Connected power to hot side of interior light so it stays on any time the refer is turned on.  Cost ... about $9.

Some of these are bit more complex than others ..
Steve


 

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Just a small hint for users of DVM's (Digital Volt Meters), such as shown below or similar.

   Most, if not every meter, is protected by a small glass fuse to prevent irreversible damage to the meter, if the wrong mode or range has been selected in error.

  The fuse is  located internally and will blow when an accidental meter switch setting has been selected to the wrong mode or value. (It has happened to me even though I have been around test equipment longer than I want to remember). In my case it happened in low light and the rotating switch selector was not marked very well, as you will see in the pix; I have now marked it with a black ink mark.

  The fuse size is most likely listed on the back of the meter; if not, in the manual. In my case it called for a 250ma/250V rating (0.25a), 5x20mm, GMA type.

   I was unable to find that precise value and opted for the 315ma (0.315a) version out of necessity.

   I suggest that you carry some spare fuses along, just in case.

carson FL
 

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I have had to I have a lot of redo on the caulking on the sidewalls of my MH.  The job the dealer did to fix the non-UV caulking Newmar put on in the first place is coming undone, peeling, cracking, etc.

I started to replace it and found I could no longer use the hand caulking guns, it just hurt too much afterwards.

I found an air powered caulking gun at Harbor Freight for < $15 that works great and by adjusting the air pressure to match the viscosity of the caulk and how fast you want to work, I can lay a bead and almost not need to smooth it out.

If and when you have to caulk again, I suggest you consider the air gun.
 
Ron,

Be careful and be sure to get the one for the cartridges you are using.  I found out the hard way that caulking comes in 2 different sized tubes.  Most if not all RV caulk is in the smaller ones.
 
This is a little advise for those having thermostat/heater/A-C temp problems.

  Sometimes a temperature variation as expected from your thermostat does not always work out.
I have listed below a couple of images that may be pertinent to your problem.

  Picture 1 shows the location of the HEAT vent outlet that is placed in a position where it would blow hot air towards the thermostat and negate its effectiveness. The furnace would shut off prematurely before the room temp is reached. I simply place a mat over part of the vent to prevent the hot air from reaching the thermostat.

  Picture 2 shows the A/C vent on the ceiling, which if pointed in the direction of the thermostat, will cause the A/C to shut of prematurely. Just turn the vent pointing in the opposite direction.

  Not a big deal, maybe it'll help someone's problems.

carson FL

 

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Used to have a similar problem at our prior house. A thermostat in the hallway got morning sun and it was really confused.
 
We should also be aware that if the thermostat is mounted on an outside wall, sun shining on that wall could throw the registered temperature off.
 
A little "Nostalgia" here.  A Triplett VOM from days of yore.

Just found an old, dear friend in a box stashed away in a corner.

  It is a Triplett VOM Model 310. Came with a heavy duty leather case with belt loop.
It is 2 3/4" wide and 4 1/4" high. It weighs 8 oz, that's 1/2 lbs. The inside is crammed with high quality components. The case seems to resemble Bakelite, widely used years ago.

  It uses 2 batteries, an "N" size 1.5V and an A23 (or23A) 12 V battery. (for resistance measurements).

  Nostalgic?  I have had it since 1965, a company supplied item. To my surprise, after googling it, that the same model is still being made and widely available in select stores. What a "Made in USA" story. Current price is about $150.00.

  Hope you enjoy a story like this.

carson FL

 

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