Hints, Tricks and Gadgets/Tools --- small ones.

[carson]

Another little hint for users with (coil spring assist) airbags, or even other air bags.

  There is a small volume of air in each bag, as compared to tires. When you are checking the pressure and/or refilling, do not allow any air to escape after filling/testing. With a 60 psi airbag you can easily lose 10 psi within a second or so after filling, if you are not careful in removing the air chuck.

carson FL

[ruthandken CDN]

Somewhere in here awhile back I saw a posting from someone who had made their own generator exhaust extension pipe.  I have searched this forum from top to bottom and cannot find it.  Does any one remember that post?

[Tom]

How about this. Found it using the Search button.

Here's another, but note the caution about the choice of material.

[S J Strait]

I don't know if this fits here I think it dose. When we set up camp we like to put an extention on our awning. We slide hooks on the tube the one you get from CW for hanging lights. Then we hang a tarp one that has silver on back so its nice and dark. then we take 3 poles and strech out the tarp and tie it down at the corners . and there you go now we have lots of shade and rain protection. doubles outside living area.  Of course if there is bade wind we take it down.

[carson]

This post is a continuation of my post re LP Tank monitor problem, a few posts back.

  After cleaning the electrical posts, all was not well, just partially.

Here is what I found today: I took a careful look at the spade connectors connected to the sending unit. They looked ok but when I wiggled them again, the wires broke off.  I suspected corrosion within the spade connectors.

 I cut off the connectors and stripped back the insulation on the cable. Lo and behold, I had to strip them back almost 2 inches before I got to clean copper wire. Seems like that when corrosion starts it wanders.

  After I got to the copper portion and twisted them together I got the expected result; the meter/indicator registered zero (as it should). First time I have seen that reading in long time. That proved to me that the problem was solved. Now all I have to do is put new female spade connectors on and I'll be in business.

  A lesson: If you suspect connector problems,(anywhere) pull on the wire (maybe twist them a bit) to remove the spade connectors. If they break, it is time to replace them. Then make sure you have clean copper wire before putting on new ones.

A true story... carson FL


   

   

[Ron]

Congratulations Carson on getting it fixed.  Corrosion can be very detrimental to an electrical connection and in some cases it takes some searching to find it.  Good job.

[carson]

Just a little Kwikee quick test for those of you with automatic entry steps.


   We all know that they will malfunction at times. It is important to know that the motor will shut itself down when there is a severe blockage/friction in the mechanical mechanism. The mechanical linkages, many of them, require free travel. This can happen from a lack of lubrication on the myriad pivot points of the step mechanism.

   Barring structural damage, from bending the steps accidentally, it is most likely caused by neglect of lubrication. The joints are lo-tech, just iron against iron.

  A quick way to test your steps is to extend them out. Then simply grasp the lower step and pull it forward and up a bit. ( The tolerances are not very tight). They will move about 1/2" or so. If they settle down easily, when you let go, chances are that all is well. If the unit has been damaged and is bent, this won't apply.

  If they refuse to settle down by gravity you may have a problem. This is the time to grab your favorite lubricant and give all the moving joints a good squirt; there are about 8-10 of them. I simply use a multi purpose lubricant (called MPL) and squirt away. (From Advance Auto Parts). I do that once a year and have been trouble free for 5 years.

   I did have an accidental crash with a curb but was able to get the "iron" straightened again.

  This falls under the category of "preventive maintenance". I see no advantage of buying special "lube" for a crude mechanism used with the steps.

  Ok, let's hear it.

carson FL

[carson]

Another small problem fixed.

  I have the coil spring assist front air bags on my rig. Included in that installation are remote piping/ tubing in order to check and air up the bags from the front of the rig.

  Yesterday, a few days before my upcoming trip, the left one was empty. The bags are 2 years old.

  The fix was simple; tighten the connector at the bag (more than finger tight) and check the valve at the entry point of the  hose. I noticed an air bubble (using spit) at that point.
I removed the valve and replaced it with a (made in US) valve. Problem solved.

   A reminder to carry a few extra valve stem valves in your kit and a removal tool.

The airbags are small, the pressure will drop very quickly if there is a leak. When pumping them up, be careful when attaching/removing the pump hose connector. Pressure will drop within a fraction of a second, if air escapes. I run mine at about 60psi.

  For convenience sake I use a good bicycle pump, with meter attached, to perform that duty. Saves a lot of time from dragging out the big portable 100psi pump.

carson FL


L

[longbeard]

Thanks for all the great tips and tricks! 

[PancakeBill]

Carson
I use a Silca bike pump, virtually no escaping air when removing. 

I haven't set up air bags on this coach yet, but when I do, I have 2 of the air pump, contrrollers to mount in the cab.

[carson]

Bill, My pump is the same as a Silca. Works great. It has the snap-on tip so very little air is lost, if you don't fumble it. I am good at fumbling. 

carson

[PancakeBill]

I picked up 2 of the pumps with remote fills from CW on closeout at $5 each.  ow to get the bags.

[carson]

   Are your RV drawer slides broken? I have a Winnebago with a bunch of sliding drawer. Over time some of them became troublesome. The problem was the plastic/nylon supports at the inside end were broken. Old age, I guess.

  I searched at commercial cabinet shops to no avail. My last recourse was a small RV parts shop for help. Guess what...no problem.

   See pix below for all the info you need. (AZ RV Products) is a wholesaler only.

carson FL

[Ron]

Good info.  While we haven't experienced sush a problem I know a lot of folks that have.  Thanks for posting that.

[threeful]

I have a fifth wheel and lost my sewer hose (on I-35) when the cap on my PVC sewer hose container came open.  Thje container is a PVC pipe located under the unit near the back end.  I drilled a small hole through the PVC pipe close to the cap, cut a piece of metal clothes hanger (bending the top end) and inserted into the drilled hole.  If the cap comes off, which it has, the piece of metal prevents the pipe from sliding out.

Bill T

[John From Detroit]

I had a problem since day one with drawers opening as I turn corners... Most of 'em were blocked by creative packing but the kitchen ones took some work

Two eye bolts (There are 4 drawers the eye bolts are screwed in between 1/2 and 3/4) and Dowel rod.

They can't open now

[cashion]

Am very new to RV camping but have been a nurse most of my life.  The clorox in water to spray the fresh water hook-up before connecting is a great idea but  have always been told that this solution is only stable (effective) for 24 to 48 hrs.  Mixing a very small amount each time you need to use it and not storing it for future use is the best idea.  Thought it would be years before I could contribute, hope this is helpful.  Cashion

[maddog348]

What about straight Clorox &/or how long is is "good" in the orig 1gal bottle??

[Ned]

Since Clorox is already sodium hypochlorite diluted with water, I don't see how further dilution would affect it's useful life.  I think the 24-48 hour efficacy is when it's applied.

[cashion]

Was talking about the solution left in bottle.  See General Disinfecting  Please Note: comments at Clorox website under product usage

http://www.clorox.com/products/usage.php?prod_id=clb

I will quote them.
"Bleach solutions need to be made fresh daily. Once diluted, bleach breaks down quickly-mainly into salt and water."

The clorox bottle does not have an expiration date so presume, if undiluted, it stays good.  Some other bleach products contain chemicals that do not break down as quickly but they are more harmful to our environment.

[maddog348]

Shoot if there have been dogs using the spigot I'm gonna spritz it full strength outta the big bottle.

[Ned]

Perhaps our resident chemist can explain how further diluting an already diluted solution will cause it break down quickly.  Sounds like marketing speaking.

[RLSharp]

Perhaps our resident chemist can explain how further diluting an already diluted solution will cause it break down quickly.  Sounds like marketing speaking.

Ned,

If you are referring to me as "our resident chemist," I don't have a clue.

I do know that reaction rates are often influenced by the concentration of the the reactants. However, if you asked me the question, with no prior discussions, which will decompose or react faster a dilute solution or a concentrated solution of a given mixture, I would say the concentrated solution will react the fastest. I believe, like you, that diluting a roughly 5% solution to an even more dilute solution, wouldn't accelerate the rate of decomposition--or even change it. But chemistry sometimes involves some really strange phenomena--who knows.

[Ned]

Richard, yes, you're our resident chemist   The only other factor that might enter in would be impurities in the water used to dilute the bleach, but they would vary a lot.

[carson]

A little insight from an "non chemist". Chlorine, as used in swimming pools disappears rather quickly in warm water and lots of sunshine. I suppose it just evaporates more quickly than water. I have 9 years of pool experience and find in the summertime my chlorine levels disappear rather quickly.

  Perhaps air access and temperature have a lot to do with degradation. I would venture to guess that a mixed solution in a tightly sealed bottle/spray device would last a lot longer if not exposed to high temperatures nor air leaks. Put in the fridge?

  I don't know what this means but it could fit into the equation on longevity .

carson FL  86.7°

[carson]

AN OLD TOPIC- RENEWED..

Measuring the  A/C frequency of your generator. This has been discussed before and is buried in the archives somewhere.

   I made another test today and found my earlier post to be easy and accurate.

1. Items needed: a watch with a second hand.
2. A microwave oven with a clock timer
3. A way to set the oven for 1 minute heat.

  Next.. Set the bake time for 1 minute.
           Don't hit the Start switch until your second hand on the watch is exactly on 12:00

My bad... This should belong in Hints and Tricks etc.. some one please move it

carson


           Look at your watch for one minute and wait until the Microwave stops. At that very moment check
           your watch to see how many seconds you are behind or ahead of the time the microwave stops.
              A quick reaction is required

    If the second hand is right on 12:00, you have 60 Hz (cycle)..perfect
    If                           on 12"01  you have 59 Hz
    If                           on 11.59  you have 61 Hz, Every second is one hertz (cycle) in reverse order.
Remember, every second on your watch is 1 cycle. Calculate your frequency.

I think all microwave ovens operate on 120VAC and their clocks are dependent on the input frequency of 60 cps, The American Standard.

   This is so easy to do, no need to wait for hours to calculate time loss or gain on an ordinary clock.

Try it and you will like it.

  Depending on the load on the generator you can expect an acceptable outcome between 58 and 62 Hz.


Any comments?

carson FL

Edit; This belongs in "Hints, Trick and Tools" post. Someone please move it.

carson

                              
    


  

[rsalhus]

Any comments?

Yeah, you forgot the part about  turning the generator on!   

[edjunior]

AN OLD TOPIC- RENEWED..

Measuring the  A/C frequency of your generator. This has been discussed before and is buried in the archives somewhere.

   I made another test today and found my earlier post to be easy and accurate.

1. Items needed: a watch with a second hand.
2. A microwave oven with a clock timer
3. A way to set the oven for 1 minute heat.

  Next.. Set the bake time for 1 minute.
           Don't hit the Start switch until your second hand on the watch is exactly on 12:00

My bad... This should belong in Hints and Tricks etc.. some one please move it

carson


           Look at your watch for one minute and wait until the Microwave stops. At that very moment check
           your watch to see how many seconds you are behind or ahead of the time the microwave stops.
              A quick reaction is required

    If the second hand is right on 12:00, you have 60 Hz (cycle)..perfect
    If                           on 12"01  you have 59 Hz
    If                           on 11.59  you have 61 Hz, Every second is one hertz (cycle) in reverse order.
Remember, every second on your watch is 1 cycle. Calculate your frequency.

I think all microwave ovens operate on 120VAC and their clocks are dependent on the input frequency of 60 cps, The American Standard.

   This is so easy to do, no need to wait for hours to calculate time loss or gain on an ordinary clock.

Try it and you will like it.

  Depending on the load on the generator you can expect an acceptable outcome between 58 and 62 Hz.


Any comments?

carson FL

Edit; This belongs in "Hints, Trick and Tools" post. Someone please move it.

carson

Well, my question/comment would be...exactly what are we trying to accomplish here?  Depending on the Hz measurement of the microwave, the generator is doing what?  Or should be doing what?  I'm a little confused on just what this test is for.

[carson]

Quite simple, Ed.

  The aux generator in most motorhomes are expected to produce 120VAC a 60 hertz. If one suspects that the o/p frequency is either too high or too low, which could raise havoc with certain appliances.

  I simple use my measuring technique to verify the frequency of the generator. Of course one can buy a frequency meter (test equipment), my method is quite accurate without doing that.

Oh well,  carson FL

[John From Detroit]

AN OLD TOPIC- RENEWED..

Measuring the  A/C frequency of your generator. This has been discussed before and is buried in the archives somewhere.

(Much clipped)

Any comments?

Just two Carson

1:  I just hit the Hz key on my Kill-a-watt

2: That may or may not work depending on how the Microwave clock gets it's time signal.  Many do indeed use the power line since long term that is one of the best time standards made, over a period of 10 years you will likely never be off more than a second or two if synced to the power line.. Other time base standards (IE: XTAL) can and do drift.. The only thing better is WWV.  IN fact the power line syncs to WWV but is not as stable.

(NOTE: For those not in the US sub your own national bureau of standards time server)

A mechanical clock syncs to the power line