Hints, Tricks and Gadgets/Tools --- small ones.

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RLSharp said:
Ron, you didn't winterize properly! The weather here doesn't prevent me from doing anything I want. Now, if we were in Rochester, NY, we would have the same problem you do. I think we winterized properly.  ;D

Richard

I have to agree with you that winterizing the way we did this year is not as easy or as pleasent as it has been in years past.  Still BEST WAY to winterize is DRIVE SOUTH. ;D
 
I just tried an experiment on my fresh water tank which is translucent and I can see the actual water lever. Using my IR remote reading thermometer, I can definitely detect the water level in the tank. The tank is about 2?F cooler at the water level than the plastic above the water level. I don't see why this technique wouldn't work on a radiator tank, especially if the engine has been run so that the fluid is warmer than ambient temperature.

Richard
 
I, also, used my IR to check the translucent water tank, to confirm that the IR was reading the correct level. It was within a quarter inch. I did that to confirm that I was really reading the level correctly in my opaque gray and brown holding tanks. Can't think of a reason why it woud not read the correct level on a radiator overflow tank.

Ray D
 
This little post may address a problem that has been lingering in past posts.

  It pertains to an erroneous reading of the LP (Propane) tank on the indicator panel inside the RV.

I have been plagued with this problem for some time and think I found the problem.

  My LED indicator showed "Full" at all times for some time now. The first thing I did was wiggle on the wires on the tank sender (see pix below). That did not seem to fix it. My next step was to do a thorough cleaning job of the contacts, using a scraper (knife) on both sides of the contacts on the sending unit. A few rapid movements of the connector, on -off-, several times, cleared the problem. An application of some sort of chemical (de-oxid) probably will help too.

  The terminals involved are subject to a lot of road grime etc. and after a few years they become very oxidized.

  To check yours, when the terminals are disconnected, the LED indicator will read "Full". As the tank empties, the resistance, ohms, in the sensor will decrease and, hopefully, will start to indicate the proper volume of LPG in your tank.

carson FL


 
 

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John In Detroit said:
Two other things along this same line.. ONE, I have seen windshields get so hot the wiper was damaged.

And two... Replace the blades every once in a while.

I like to use alcohol wipes found at drug store. couple of swipes once in awhile and there just like new. in between regular changes of course.
 
Thanx Rex, after the a/m cleaning I indeed applied d/e grease, even filled the small connectors with the grease to prevent further water entry.  System is working fine now.

  carson FL

 
I am not sure if this counts. but here goes. I have this wind chim made of a tin cup band silver ware that I hang off the awning outside my bed room window.If it starts making lots of noise I know to get up and bring in the awning.
 
A minor hint, a new Teflon grease I found today while trying to repair one of my swimming pool vales.

  It is touted to be used for Motors, O-Rings, Gaskets, Bearings, Water filters. It is waterproof, indoors and out. Temperature range of 0F to 425F. (So it says on the back).

  It is obviously meant for my pool valve and other things.

The one ounce tube will probably last me forever. ($3.50).

  How can I use it on my RV?  Not too much, but here is what I did. During my occasional tire pressure check of my tires, I applied a dab of the grease to my metal tire valve covers and threads; there is a small rubber washer inside; the threads are usually rough and grimy and that bit of Teflon grease would not do any harm, in my opinion. I used a Q-tip to apply a bit of the grease into the valve caps. I found a distinct difference in replacing the caps and was more assured that the rubber seal would be more protected.

FWIW, the product can be found in your local pool supply store.

  see pix below

carson FL



 

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Another little hint for users with (coil spring assist) airbags, or even other air bags.

  There is a small volume of air in each bag, as compared to tires. When you are checking the pressure and/or refilling, do not allow any air to escape after filling/testing. With a 60 psi airbag you can easily lose 10 psi within a second or so after filling, if you are not careful in removing the air chuck.

carson FL



 
Somewhere in here awhile back I saw a posting from someone who had made their own generator exhaust extension pipe.  I have searched this forum from top to bottom and cannot find it.  Does any one remember that post?
 
How about this. Found it using the Search button.

Here's another, but note the caution about the choice of material.
 
I don't know if this fits here I think it dose. When we set up camp we like to put an extention on our awning. We slide hooks on the tube the one you get from CW for hanging lights. Then we hang a tarp one that has silver on back so its nice and dark. then we take 3 poles and strech out the tarp and tie it down at the corners . and there you go now we have lots of shade and rain protection. doubles outside living area.  Of course if there is bade wind we take it down.
 
This post is a continuation of my post re LP Tank monitor problem, a few posts back.

  After cleaning the electrical posts, all was not well, just partially.

Here is what I found today: I took a careful look at the spade connectors connected to the sending unit. They looked ok but when I wiggled them again, the wires broke off.  I suspected corrosion within the spade connectors.

I cut off the connectors and stripped back the insulation on the cable. Lo and behold, I had to strip them back almost 2 inches before I got to clean copper wire. Seems like that when corrosion starts it wanders.

  After I got to the copper portion and twisted them together I got the expected result; the meter/indicator registered zero (as it should). First time I have seen that reading in long time. That proved to me that the problem was solved. Now all I have to do is put new female spade connectors on and I'll be in business.

  A lesson: If you suspect connector problems,(anywhere) pull on the wire (maybe twist them a bit) to remove the spade connectors. If they break, it is time to replace them. Then make sure you have clean copper wire before putting on new ones.

A true story... carson FL


   

   
 
Congratulations Carson on getting it fixed.  Corrosion can be very detrimental to an electrical connection and in some cases it takes some searching to find it.  Good job.
 
Just a little Kwikee quick test for those of you with automatic entry steps.


  We all know that they will malfunction at times. It is important to know that the motor will shut itself down when there is a severe blockage/friction in the mechanical mechanism. The mechanical linkages, many of them, require free travel. This can happen from a lack of lubrication on the myriad pivot points of the step mechanism.

  Barring structural damage, from bending the steps accidentally, it is most likely caused by neglect of lubrication. The joints are lo-tech, just iron against iron.

  A quick way to test your steps is to extend them out. Then simply grasp the lower step and pull it forward and up a bit. ( The tolerances are not very tight). They will move about 1/2" or so. If they settle down easily, when you let go, chances are that all is well. If the unit has been damaged and is bent, this won't apply.

  If they refuse to settle down by gravity you may have a problem. This is the time to grab your favorite lubricant and give all the moving joints a good squirt; there are about 8-10 of them. I simply use a multi purpose lubricant (called MPL) and squirt away. (From Advance Auto Parts). I do that once a year and have been trouble free for 5 years.

  I did have an accidental crash with a curb but was able to get the "iron" straightened again.

  This falls under the category of "preventive maintenance". I see no advantage of buying special "lube" for a crude mechanism used with the steps.

  Ok, let's hear it.

carson FL

 
Another small problem fixed.

  I have the coil spring assist front air bags on my rig. Included in that installation are remote piping/ tubing in order to check and air up the bags from the front of the rig.

  Yesterday, a few days before my upcoming trip, the left one was empty. The bags are 2 years old.

  The fix was simple; tighten the connector at the bag (more than finger tight) and check the valve at the entry point of the  hose. I noticed an air bubble (using spit) at that point.
I removed the valve and replaced it with a (made in US) valve. Problem solved.

  A reminder to carry a few extra valve stem valves in your kit and a removal tool.

The airbags are small, the pressure will drop very quickly if there is a leak. When pumping them up, be careful when attaching/removing the pump hose connector. Pressure will drop within a fraction of a second, if air escapes. I run mine at about 60psi.

  For convenience sake I use a good bicycle pump, with meter attached, to perform that duty. Saves a lot of time from dragging out the big portable 100psi pump.

carson FL


L
 
Carson
I use a Silca bike pump, virtually no escaping air when removing. 

I haven't set up air bags on this coach yet, but when I do, I have 2 of the air pump, contrrollers to mount in the cab.

 

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