Hints, Tricks and Gadgets/Tools --- small ones.

[Tom]

My post was in resonse to the "you can't have too many tools"

Thanks for clarification John.

[sadavis80]

OK - I have another one.  It's been a PITA to set the thermostat to something cool enough (winter settings) to sleep comfortably in) and then have to drag my butt out of bed in the AM and go turn the heater up for showers and breakfast.  Yesterday, I added an 'aux' thermostat over the headboard so i can set the main one (up front) to 'warm' and leave the 'bed' one set to cool.  Then, when we wake up, all I have to do is reach up and thumb the local one to 'get up' and we can then rest a bit more while waiting for warmth - neither of us has to actually get more than an ARM out from under the covers .

Got the cheap 'stat' from home depot for about $15 IIRC.  Took about 30 mins to figure out how to do everything ... $10 in thermostat wire ... and about FOUR HOURS to route the blasted wire from the bed area to the heater .

But I did get it done.  I'm pretty sure I'll be very HAPPY come Thanksgiving...
Steve

[Wendy]

Steve, I think that's the best, most useful hint anyone has ever posted here !! I jump out of bed every morning, turn up the thermostat, and jump back in bed....which isn't easy with a 70-pound Labradork laying on the bed !!

Wendy
Zion NP

[Jim Godward]

I recently had a lot of redo on the caulking on the sidewalls of my MH.  The job the dealer did to fix the non-UV caulking Newmar put on in the first place is coming undone, peeling, cracking, etc.

I started to replace it and found I could not use the hand caulking guns and it just hurt too much afterwards.

I found an air powered caulking gun at Harbor Freight for less than $15 that works great and by adjusting the airpressure to match the viscosity of the caulk and how fast you want to work, I can lay a bead and almost not need to smooth it out.  I did one track on the lower side of the MH, one side in about 10 to 15 minutes after it was cleaned out.

If and when you have to caulk again, I suggest you consider the air gun.  Be sure to get one that fits the cartridges you will be using as there are 2 sizes.

Also another hint.  Push the gun as you lay the caulking rather than pulling.  You can see better what you are doing and you will have better control of the bead you are putting down.  I learned this from a glass installer and believe me, it really does work.

[Just Lou]

Jim, this one I have to try.  I am the worlds worst with a caulk gun.  thanks.

[Jim Godward]

I was but the new technique and the right gun sure helped out!   

[Tom]

Do you think that George should have used one of those fancy caulking guns when he caulked Lucy's new trailer? See the photos attached to this message.

[Ron]

I think it might have helped just a little anyway.

[carson]

Another little tip that may work for you;

   This for the filter of your A/C air inlets for rooftop units. Let it be known that I am not too enthused about filtering microbes out of the air flow. When I travel/camp, I open windows and doors as much as I can. There is virtually no appreciable dust in my RV at any time. I am more worried about larger items getting sucked in: moths, flies leaves or what ever could plug up the evaporator.

   I am now using an inexpensive filter material readily available where ever furnace filters are sold. It comes in a large size which you cut to size. I guess we can call it "Horse hair".

   It has several uses: Any air inlet can probably accommodate it.

      Pieces left over make a great scouring pad for cleaning nasty bugs of your windshield. It is probably non-abrasive so could be used on paint as well..... check first.

        I will experiment with the furnace inlets (dauber protection). A small piece can probably be stuffed in from the outside which can then be easily removed when the furnace is required.

   In other words use your imagination.

Note: This is not advertisement.

carson FL

[carson]

continued from my post 158 above.

   Re securing the furnace vents from dauber attacks;

  Pix one shows the open vents, vulnerable to vermin entering.
  Pix 2 shows the insertion of "horse hair", used during storage. A piece cut about 2x3" will fit nicely and snugly. Simply pull out when furnace operation is required.

   This is the first experiment. Any other ideas?

carson FL

[Dolphin Jockey]

 Re securing the furnace vents from dauber attacks;
  Pix one shows the open vents, vulnerable to vermin entering.
  Pix 2 shows the insertion of "horse hair", used during storage. A piece cut about 2x3" will fit nicely and snugly. Simply pull out when furnace operation is required.

   This is the first experiment. Any other ideas?

carson FL

I, for one, certainly would not intentionally plug up my furnace intake and exhaust like that for any reason.

Why not spend 15 bucks or so at Camping World or some other RV parts supplier and obtain a metal flying insect screen made specifically for your furnace.  Properly mounted, you never have to worry about it, other than a visual inspection once in a while.  That way you don't run the risk of someone turning on the heater before remembering the air intake and hot exhaust outlets have been plugged.  It just might turn out to be a false economy --- at best.

[carson]

Thanks, George.  Yes, you are right. My little idea is indeed a hoaky one. 

   I was just looking for something easy for the Suburban furnace holes, to protect them while my rig is in storage in a grassy lot. Haven't used it for months now. Haven't used the furnace in a long time.

  The best way to go for a permanent installation will be as you suggested. Here is the link for a screen from CW.

carson FL

[PancakeBill]

I was at CW the other day, found a fantastic little item, gadget.  A lighter, one you can refuel, (butane), that is also a bottle opener.  Very sturdy and only $5.  Great gift for the $5 gift exchange.  Dang, just realized I should have gotten one for my cousin for Tday instead of another wine botle.

Keep it in the outside bin for the candels, campfire and adult beverages that are not twist offs.

[John From Detroit]

Sold under the COLEMAN label perhaps.. I got one last month myself.

[Dolphin Jockey]

Thanks, George.  Yes, you are right. My little idea is indeed a hoaky one. 

  The best way to go for a permanent installation will be as you suggested. Here is the link for a screen from CW.

carson FL

Hi Carson,

That's the one I had in mind.  I think you'd be a lot happier in the long run with a permanent installation.

[PancakeBill]

Yes, it is Coleman.  Used it last night, I am away at a Bluegrass Fest in Brooksville.  Worked just fine.  Bet I could sell them up here for double!

[John From Detroit]

I suspect you could.. Also at Tailgate events.. I mean folks who mix BBQ with BEER should love 'em

Alas.. Make mine a Dad's Old Fashion DIET ROOT Beer please

[carson]

A little hint here for Kwikee Steps, a potential problem.

   The wire harness from the steps to the RV innards was, in my case, bundled up and fastened to the chassis frame with a couple of small tie-wraps only. The harness is fairly substantial and weighty.

  Well, the tie-wraps rotted away and I was dragging the wires on the ground while traveling down the hi-way. Luckily I noticed that at a rest stop. I proceeded to re-tie them using a fairly hefty bungy-cord. There are perfect holes in the frame to attach the hooks.

   Perhaps an inspection on your setup will prevent a mini-disaster.

carson FL

[John From Detroit]

For various reasons I inspect that area often.. At the very least once a year (It is turning out) usually more than that.

However.. I never really considered that the cable stays might rot away.. (But if they did.. I'd see it for sure)

[harley man]

Pop the valve on your propane torch for a sec. for a propane test on that alarm. Many of us have toast problems, my Endeavor's smoke alarm is plumb over the  range so  I must remove it while frying, even with fan on high vent!

[Dolphin Jockey]

A little hint here for Kwikee Steps, a potential problem.

  Well, the tie-wraps rotted away and I was dragging the wires on the ground while traveling down the hi-way. Luckily I noticed that at a rest stop. I proceeded to re-tie them using a fairly hefty bungy-cord. There are perfect holes in the frame to attach the hooks.

Hi Carson,

To replace those rotted tie-wraps with something more permanent than bungee cord you might want to consider stainless steel tie-wraps.  I bought a package at one of my favorite 'toy' stores: Harbor Freight Tools.  Just tried to find them at www.harborfreight.com but apparently they're not listed.  If you're interested I can go by the store near my home at the end of next week and see if they're still available.  With the HFT item number a search for that number might get a hit on the HFT web site.  Let me know if you want me to try getting the info.

[RonBoyd]

To replace those rotted tie-wraps with something more permanent than bungee cord you might want to consider stainless steel tie-wraps.

Will this help?

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGIH_enUS222US222&q=%22stainless+steel+tie%2dwraps%22

particularly note the tiewraps.com entry.

[carson]

Yes, thanks Ron. I'll definitely make it much more secure soon. The bundle of harness is immensily large, probably 10-15' all coiled up. I think I will uncoil that mess, rebundle neatly and fasten it so it will last 100 years.

   Somebody must have been in a hurry when it was installed. 

carson FL

[Dolphin Jockey]

What I had in mind for stainless steel tie wraps is shown at http://www.tiewraps.com/stainlesst_ec_twrappage.html  I was hoping to find (in the U.S.) was smaller quanties in a package, in the $5.00 -- $10.00 range.

[carson]

Thanks to you too, George.

carson

[PancakeBill]

OK, the bottle opener/flamer is Olympian, not Coleman, although at first glance you could believe it is Coleman.  Very similar looking.  Used both functions this past weekend.  Great job!

[carson]

This subject has been discussed many times in the forum.  "VALVE EXTENDERS" for your tires.

   The troublemakers are the outside rear tires an most RVs. Here is my solution for easily solving the problem of checking the pressure and injecting more air.

   Background: I purchased 2 nice looking units and put them on my outside tires. They worked well for that purpose... for a while. Seems like with use (driving) they will not stay in place and actually loosen up. (Centrifugal force at work, I guess).

  After noticing that I lost air, I removed them. No more air leaks. Now what I do is to attach them only when I want to check the pressure and/or add air. After I am finished I remove them again (takes seconds only) and place them in my tool bag for the next time.

   The units (see pix below) come in various angles, depending on your wheel/tire system. Mine was a 60º version.

   My inside tires have a steel-mesh extender secured solidly by a support on the wheel covers....no problems.

   A Major problem for some, an easy fix for me.

(For old info just search valve extenders with the Seach feature)

carson FL  72.1°

[sadavis80]

Maybe I'm just ahead (or behind) on this topic (tire valves), but last year I LOOSENED my valve stems for the outside tire (Aluminum rims on the outside, so they can't be swapped to the inside ANYWAY!), and TURNED them about 75 degrees so that I can easily reach them - even with a NORMAL air chuck - and I've had NO problems since.  I guess it might do well to pay attention to the centripetal force applied as the wheel rotates - to make sure things are pointed towards the TIGHTENING side instead of the LOOSENING side .

Just loosen the nut on the valve stem slightly and (with GREAT dexterity) rotate it around so you can access it easily - then retighten the nut.

No leaks - no problems and *MUCH* easier to check/add air than before .. I *DO* have Pressure Pro sensors mounted and rotated enough that I can take them off/on without too much difficulty.  No probs there either after several thousand miles.

Steve

[carson]

Just another little hint...

  One of my windshields has "permanent wiper streaks";  obviously been scratched over time before I became the owner. My rig is now 13 years old, have had it for 5 years.

   Clean rubber blade wipers will not scratch. Only an abrasive will leave permanent marks.

  I recommend that before you go on any trip, especially  after a time of storage, to take a minute and clean your wiper blades thoroughly with soapy water, windex, or your choice of cleaner to remove any possible dirt on them and then check with your fingernail for uniformity of pure/clean rubber surface.

  Removing those old scratches seems to be an impossibility.

carson FL


 
   

[John From Detroit]

Two other things along this same line.. ONE, I have seen windshields get so hot the wiper was damaged.

And two... Replace the blades every once in a while.