Equalize your deep cycle batteries

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Thanks Bernie. I guess I was looking too hard  :)

Interesting that Lifeline would recomend equalizing AGMs while Trojan and some others say don't do it.
 
Karl said:
Bernie,

Very interesting. I sent Lifeline an email asking for an explanation and will post their answer as soon as received.
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I have talked to David Godber (one of many Godber's at Lifeline)  at Lifeline and he says that equalization is all most never required for an RV. This is because the batteries are all most continually under charge from either shore power or engine alternator or coach generator. However, if one allows batteries to go dead while in storage than they will sulfate and must be equalized. He says they will seldom gas but if they do the vents are set to 4 psi and will relieve pressure. The voltage should be at 15.5 for 8 hours not 3 which was in the web site.  Boats are another matter. Due to long periods of use with no charging they do sulfate and thus they frequently do need equalization which is determined by open circuit no load voltage dropping  below 12.8. Best to call him at 800-527-3224 when in need of actual checking process.

BTW _ my son's new Beneteau is at Rock Hall and I have advised him of the errors in web site and David is trying to contact writer to correct mistake and add info to clarify his comments
 
I will be interested in their reply. ?Everything else I've read says that AGMs don't need equalizing. ?However, they do specify that the batteries be charged normally BEFORE equalizing. ?This would prevent excessive charge current which could generate high pressures. ?I suspect that equalizing is needed for AGMs in static applications, like battery backup systems, where the electrolyte isn't subject to mixing as it would be in a vehicle application.
 
Ned said:
they do specify that the batteries be charged normally BEFORE equalizing.  This would prevent excessive charge current which could generate high pressures.
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Evrything you read says that Ned. But, if I put my Heart inverter/charger into equalization mode, it limits the current to around 40-50A, whereas the normal charge rate for (my) discharged batteries is 140A. Given that, why would the batteries need to be fully charged before starting the equalization cycle? The answer might just be that, if the batteries aren't charged, that 40-50A merely charges the batteries and causes no bubbling/equalization.
 
Tom said:
Interesting that Lifeline would recommend equalizing AGMs while Trojan and some others say don't do it.
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As I said, I don't equalize mine. There is a circumstance that Lifeline outlined where you do equalize, but I haven't encountered it in the 2 years I've had them.
 
Tom,

But does your Heart have an AGM setting for equalization that limits the voltage to 15.5V?  The normal equalization voltage is higher than that for flooded cells.

The 3 stage charger keeps the batteries from overcharging at each stage so they shouldn't be boiling during normal charging.  When equalizing, the voltage is kept constant and the battery will draw whatever current is appropriate for its stage of charge.  The more discharged it is, the higher the current, so if you were to equalize when the batteries were say, 50% discharged, they likely would draw 100+ amps and would boil eventually as the charger isn't adjusting as it does during normal charging.  Does that make any sense?

In our applications, I still see no need to ever equalize the AGM batteries.
 
Ned said:
But does your Heart have an AGM setting for equalization that limits the voltage to 15.5V?
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Don't recall Ned, I'll need to go look. My Heart is hooked to flooded wet cell batteries.

The more discharged it is, the higher the current, so if you were to equalize when the batteries were say, 50% discharged, they likely would draw 100+ amps and would boil eventually as the charger isn't adjusting as it does during normal charging. Does that make any sense?
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Nope, because that's not the way my Heart works. During equalization, even if the batteries are discharged, the current is limited to somewhere around 40-50A. Divide that by 5 for 10 golf cart batteries hooked up for 12V and it's 8-10A per battery. I say this from observation.

I still see no need to ever equalize the AGM batteries.
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Agreed.
 
In reading my Heart manual, it states that the equalizing voltage is increased from 13.2 to 16.0 while holding the current constant, until 16.0 v is reached.  It doesn't say what the current is limited to, but it's obviously to prevent excessive boiling.  That's most likely how your Heart works as well.  Smart little boxes, aren't they? :)
 
My Heart manual says the voltage can rise to 17V but, when I observed the equalization process over the weekend, the voltage didn't go anywhere near 16V. We must have different models.
 
The device you mention needs 120V power to operate.
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Karl,
That's because the Battery Minder device is a battery charger as well as an anti-sulfate pulse generator.

Thanks for the info on sulfating conditions.  That info further convince me that all RV batteries do not require equalization as a routine procedure.
 
Tom,

I have a 20D, 2000W dual output with 100 amp charger.
 
Definitely a different model Ned. Mine is a Freedom model 30 Combi, 3000W, with 140A charger.

Just re-read the manuals and there is some conflicting information. Although the Link 2000 manual says that equalizing voltage can rise to 17V, the model 30 manual says that output voltage during the equalization cycle will "rise to the equalizing voltage". In the table of specs, the equalizing voltage is shown as 16.3V. At no time during the 8 hours equalization  cycle did I see the voltage approach 16V and that might mean that the batteries didn't fully get there.

The current has always been limited during my equalization cycles and the Link 2000 manual states that it's "constant until 16V".

It appears that our boxes are designed differently. This one is 5 years old and I need to go check the manual for the newer one on the coach.
 
I was reading from my Link 1000 manual, not the Heart 20D manual.  What happens during the equalization cycle is the current is held constant while the voltage rises from 13.2 to 16 v (in my case).  The actual current is probably calculated by the Link based on battery capacity and type as set in the parameters.  The manual is possibly referring to the typical setup.

As I said, smart little boxes.
 
The Trace on the coach, although looking similar to the familiar Heart box (I know, Trace bought Heart), is quite different. It's the RV 2012 model (2,000W) and does not appear to have any capability to run an equalization cycle, or at least it's not mentioned.
 
Gary,

That's because the Battery Minder device is a battery charger as well as an anti-sulfate pulse generator.
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Quite so. Other units out there are left connected across the battery and are for on-the-road use. Some come with small solar panels too, but way too small to do anything but provide a very small trickle charge current that's probably not enough to do any good.

That info further convince me that all RV batteries do not require equalization as a routine procedure.
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Also quite so. If you don't abuse your batteries, you don't need to equalize.
 
You must have a Trace inverter.  I'm sure Xantrex has a panel equivalent to the Link 1000 for the Heart inverters that will give you full control over the Trace unit.

Xantrex now owns Heart, Trace and Prosine and just about every other inverter brand.

BTW, http://www.xantrex.com/support/readfaq.asp?did=252 is a worksheet for sizing inverter and battery bank.
 
Tom said:
The Trace on the coach, although looking similar to the familiar Heart box (I know, Trace bought Heart), is quite different. It's the RV 2012 model (2,000W) and does not appear to have any capability to run an equalization cycle, or at least it's not mentioned.
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Tom

I had put in a Trace 2k inverter and a 7 something controller in our UltraSport. The controller had a equalization setting and I did equalize the Trojan 105s I had a couple of times.
 
I haven't had the need for the controller on the Trace. We don't seem to run so much on inverter power in the coach, except when we're driving down the freeway and then the alternator is providing the 12V input.
 
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