On the way to Big Bend Nat'l PK

Just a note to let people know what the road is like and other information regarding Big Bend Nat'l Park in South Texas. 

We left San Antonio and took US 90 West to Del Rio.  I was expecting a small little town but it's big with all the amenities you might need.  If you are traveling west on US 90 be sure and watch for the quick right turn on the west outskirts of Del Rio.  We missed it; but we stumbled onto a truck stop so it was easy to get gas; however we were heading into Mexico.  Realized our mistake and turned around.  WE stayed at a funky eclectic campground named "lonesome dove rv park".  It was Friday, so they invited us to a pot hamburger/hot dog cookout.  Great food.  So for $22.00 a night, we got a campground site and dinner.  Some of the sites are satelite friendly.  Just be forewarned this is an older park that is really different; but fun.

Left Del Rio heading west on US 90 and on into Alpine, which is west of the entrance to Big Bend.  At the entranced to Big Bend, diesel was $3.79 per gallon.  Here in Alpine it is $3.45. We will fill up before we head into Big Bend.  We plan to visit Ft Davis and the DAvis Mountains.  BEcause this is Veteran's Weekend and the campgrounds in Big Bend are first come/first serve; we decided to go into Big Bend on Monday after the weekenders leave.  This may or may not work; but we are giving it a try.

On US 90 there are great pull over sites with areas for picnicing and a stop.  There are also more campgrounds than Woodlalls or Trailer Life has listed.; and some of them looked really nice.  The locals in Del Rio suggested we visit the Seminole Texas State Park.  We skipped it as we are trying to get back home before T-day, so our time is limited.  But I hear it is very very nice.

Here in Alpine, we are at the "Lost Alaskan" which is very nice and satellite friendly.

Marsha~

Thanks for the info Marsha.  We may just be down that way come Feb.

Marsha:

Not sure what your route home might be, but we have stayed at Balmoreh State Park, north of the Davis Mountains and about 50 miles east of El Paso several times.  The interesting thing there is a very deep swimming pool (we used to call them plunges) where people may actually scuba dive.

Memory dims, so I can't remember what time of year we were there at this particular time, but likely either spring or fall.  It was very hot and we had all the windows in the motorhome open that evening.  In the middle of the night the wind came up blowing dust.  I got up and closed windows, etc.  The next morning over coffee we raised the shades and the whole landscape was covered with snow!  Capricious West Texas weather at its finest!  :  We loved it ...  a great travel memory.

Margi

Thanks Margi,  We will be staying on 90 into El Paso; but I don't know if we'll be staying over night in the area.  If so, I'll be sure and look for the campground.  Waking up to snow would be an experience.  ;D  We are familiar with the So CAlif deserts, so we know the weather can change over night or even in a heart beat in the deserts.  When we were camping with the horses in desert and went out for a trial ride, we would always carry warm clothes to put on if the weather changed.

Marsha~

Marsha, Let me know how the NPS campground is in Big Bend. We're thinking about camphosting there next winter. You're so right about California deserts....it was 94 here 2 days ago then yesterday it started cooling off and today the high is supposed to be 70.

Most of the 49ers are leaving today.....YIPPEE!!

Wendy
Death Valley NP

Marsha,

We love the Big Bend area.  If you go through Marfa, be sure to stop and go inside the hotel.  Marfa is where the movie Giant was filmed and all the stars stayed there.  They left signed photos which are on the walls.  Marfa is also famous for the Marfa Lights but we've never seen them.

At Big Bend, there are lots of neat hikes.  Be sure to drive up to Chisos Basin.  On the eastern end at Rio Grande village there's a wonderful nature trail (maybe a one mile loop) that takes you through an isolated tropical ecosystem (carry drinking water).  Quite amazing in the middle of a desert!  More in the middle, but at the Rio Grande, take the trail that goes up into Santa Elena Canyon.  Lovely place with a great view of the Rio Grande.  On our last trip we were hesitant to go there because we thought it might be inside Mexico with it's attendant border crossing problems, but it isn't.  It's just a neat hike.  At the western end and just outside the park is Lajitas, an old western town that is now privately owned.  They were putting in a fancy RV park last time we were there.  Farther west of town along the river road (toward Presidio) on the south side is an old movie set that's interesting to see.  I think it was Presidio where we took a wrong turn and almost went to Mexico by mistake.  Customs kindly allowed us to swing a very large u-turn in the truck lanes.

ArdraF

Thanks Adra for the great suggestions.  I've written them down.

Maybe you can help us figure something out.  We are thinking of going into the park via the major highway from Marathon into the park.  Then we would like to come out on the west side and go back north via #118.  Is highway #118 a problem for motorhomes?

I've wanted to see Big Bend for years, so I'm excited to finally be heading that directions.

Marsha~

Wendy,  I'll check the park out for you.  Do you want pictures?  ;D  We are trying to get into the full hook up campground which is run by a consessioner; but it's first come/first serve.  If we don't get in, we'll head to the other campground that can handle our size coach.

Ardra, I forgot to mention that we went through Fort Davis today.  It was really interesting.  I didn't know it was part of the "buffalo soldiers" fort.  We also took the scenic ride through the Davis Mountains...saw deer and prong horn sheep.  Great fun.

Marsha~

There is now a FlyingJ at Lordsburg NM, exit 24. Best price for diesel on my trip from Iowa.

rhmahoney said:

There is now a FlyingJ at Lordsburg NM, exit 24. Best price for diesel on my trip from Iowa.

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That is good to know Russ. I did notice Anthony, TX is 2 cents lower than Lordsburg today according to the FJ website.

I didn't know it was part of the "buffalo soldiers" fort.

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Marsha, neither did I.  Neat!

We are thinking of going into the park via the major highway from Marathon into the park.  Then we would like to come out on the west side and go back north via #118.  Is highway #118 a problem for motorhomes?

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On our last visit we left Big Bend on US 385, the road to Marathon.  It's fine for RVs.  If you do go on it, you'll notice the road is quite built up.  The last time we drove it there had been major rain and we were surrounded by a huge lake for many miles.  Had they not built it as high as they did, the road would have been underwater.  I think it's the road from Terlinqua to Lajitas that has measuring devices in the road dips.  Those dips are deep so don't go through them if flooded!  We've stayed in the park at Rio Grande Village.  Also at Study Butte and went into the park by car.  Definitely use the car going up to Chisos Basin.  It's quite a climb and I don't think the campground can accomodate motorhomes.  (Someone correct me if I'm wrong.)  Also, near Terlinqua is a bar and restaurant called La Cueva (The Cave).  Kind of different because you feel like you're in a cave.

We took the east side road all the way out to Boquillas.  There used to be a border crossing there, but no longer.  We did see a wild burro on that road.  The first time we went to Lajitas we were rowed across the Rio Grande (it's shallow where General Pershing crossed when he was following Pancho Villa) and went into the small town there, Paso Lajitas.  Can't do that anymore either.  To reenter the U.S. you have to go all the way Presidio which is about 90 miles on the Mexican backroads.  Because of border crossing problems, the owner of Lajitas built dorms for the Mexican workers who can no longer go back and forth every day.

There are two roads that go in to Costollon on the Rio Grande.  One is paved, the other is 4WD and can be dicey if it's rained.  I think we used it once quite a while ago.  By the way, Big Bend is huge and you'll do a lot of driving.  Keep an eye on your fuel tank because there aren't all that many places to get gas.

Have fun in Big Bend!  ;D

ArdraF

ArdraF said:

Definitely use the car going up to Chisos Basin.  It's quite a climb and I don't think the campground can accomodate motorhomes.  (Someone correct me if I'm wrong.) 

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Road in to Chisos Basin campground is 15% grade, and the campground is not recommended for motorhomes over 24-foot (read about it here). But they do have a FHU site for the host.

Wendy
Death Valley NP

Ardra,

Thanks for the hints on what to see.  We are now at the park campground.  Tim and I looked at the full hookup campground which is on a parking lot and decided we'd boondock.  Their regular campground here is very very nice with large big sites and some with satellite sky access. 

We've had to be careful with the dog.  The javilina are everywhere and come right up to you.  Yesterday we were sitting out reading, with the dog on a leash, and one came right up to our chairs and table, knocked over the beer cans and nosed our books.  It was a riot. 

Wendy,  which campground are you thinking about hosting?  This one?

Marsha~

Marsha/CA said:

..Ardra, I forgot to mention that we went through Fort Davis today.  It was really interesting.  I didn't know it was part of the "buffalo soldiers" fort..Marsha~

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Another interesting thing about Ft Davis and a certain West Point graduate (the 1st Black thru the Point), Lt Flipper:

"In 1881 Lieutenant Flipper's commanding officer accused him of "embezzling funds and of conduct unbecoming an officer and a gentleman." As a result of these charges, he was court-martialed. He was acquitted of the embezzlement charge but was found guilty, by general court martial, of conduct unbecoming an officer. On June 30, 1882, he was dismissed from the Army as required by this conviction.

This, while stationed at Ft Davis.....bill

So Marsha, what else did you do while you were there?  Did you check out Stillwell CG?  Any off roading?  How was the visitor center?  Any hiking?  Inquiring minds what to know..........

Barb

We were thinking we'd like to host at any of the Big Bend campgrounds, even Chisos Basin (I think we're small enough to get in there). But after your post about javelinas, I'm having trouble picturing Sam there.....he had a conniption the other day when a coyote walked by - what would he do with a javelina?? But we'd really like to try Big Bend since we've never been there.

Wendy
Death Valley NP

Wendy and Barb,  We are now in Phoenix for a few days.  I have an uncle here I need to see.

Re Big Bend.  I know lots of people really like it; but Tim and I were a bit disappointed.  I think it might be because it looks alot like Southern California deserts; especially, near Barstow.    We found the hiking to be limited; however there were lots of gravel "off road" roads; but we saw very few people on them and very few off road vehicles.

Wendy, the road up to Chiso Basis was windy and is restricted to 24' motorhomes and 20' trailers.  I'm sure if you were a camphost, they would make an exception.  Re Chiso, there were warning signs for bear and mountain lion; but not for javilinas; so maybe they are not in that area.  However, at the Rio Grande campground, they are everywhere.  The campground at Rio Grande is the best, IMO.  There are two host campsites with one of them on site #3 or 4, whichever.  That one is the best for internet satellite, the other is under lots of trees; but that campground is full of javilina.

Barb,  We didn't physically see the campground for Stillwell, it was off the main highway about 3-4 miles and outside the park, so I can't help you on that one.  There is a nice campground at Marathon at the road going down to the park entrance.  Diesel is $3.90 at the station in Marathon; in Alpine it's $3.37

On the second day there, we drove west toward Terlingua to see the ghost town, and were disappointed in that as well.  We did see the campground at Study boot (I"m sure I've got the spelling wrong) and it was fine.  The road on the west side going to Alpine (118) is pretty, but steep in a couple of places, not bad at all.  The road going in from Marathon into the park is fine, but slow; 45 mph when you get into the park.

If you are trying to decide on any other parks in the Southwest, the one at Organ Pipe National Park in Arizonia is spectacular.  Even though they say no motorhomes longer than 35'; 40' footers can fit.  I love that park.  You can't make reservations, it's first come/first serve.

Marsha~

Whiskyecho,

We saw the movie at Fort Davis and learned about Lt. Flipper.  Did you know that there was a review of the files and facts sometime later, and that Lt. Flipper was discharged with honors after the review.  The Review board stated they felt Lt. Flipper was discriminated against and unfairly treated.  It was interesting to learn.  They are doing a very good job of refurbishing that fort.  It was really interesting.

Marsha~

Marsha and Tim,

It's too bad you didn't like Big Bend as well as some of the rest of us.  Yes, it is a lot like the desert - guess it is!    Oh well that's what makes the world interesting.

ArdraF

Marsha,

I think we are going to try to camp at Stillwell's and do the park in the toad.  We have all the talked about topics discussed here on our list of things to do.  And I have read through the NPS web site.  We'll be in Big Bend in a couple of weeks.  But first we are going to Rockport and check out the islands.

Thanks for all the info.
Barb