Yucatan/Mexico 08 with Brewers

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Knock out rug, Betty.  I can just picture it in your Yuma home.  Are you going to put in on the floor or hang it on the wall? 

Whenever you can spare the time to write your journal articles we'll enjoy them.  We look forward to our "daily Betty" but certainly understand the time pressure and occasional fatigue that goes along with long distance travel.  I also understand how ONE marguerita can have a huge impact.  Been there, done that!  ::)

Margi
 
Feb 28, 2008
Oaxaca  Day 3

Today was a combination of cultural awareness and shopping. I had a vague idea of what would be offered as my cousin; Terri has traveled Oaxaca extensively and has a wonderful collection of the local handicrafts. Eugene explained how the local villages figured out what tourists wanted to buy and developed coops to sell their wares.  Each village sticks to the same type of handicraft. Many politics are involved in the competition process, The Josefina Aguilar Gallery; a painted ceramic shop was our first stop. The 3 Aguilar sisters are famous for this type of folk art but since the figurine is pretty fragile to transport, most tourists don?t buy it.  They make detailed painted figurines and they have recently branched out into  ?ladies of the night? and more pornographic figures.  They sell the clay figures out of their homes and it was shocking to me to see their life style.  I took more photos of the dogs, chickens and turkeys roaming the center courtyard than the actual ceramics. They are very poor.  We did not negotiate any of the prices, as their need is so great.  Each of the married children live in one room with their family and share a central kitchen.  I purchased 3 small figurines of ladies dressed in typical Mexican garb complete with shawls. I dropped a peso or 2 in the pocket of a 3-year-old darling girl standing in a doorway welcoming us into her shop. Several on the caravan had brought school supplies to give to these families.  I did not allow Terry to buy the figurine he wanted, which shall not be described here in public.  Our next stop was a coop that used a lap loom process to weave placemats, belts, purses, and table runners. The weaver sits and uses a long loom strapped around their waist, to weave the product.  I bought 8 placemats, a table runner and a belt for Terry.  The group spent many pesos!

Our next stop was the Ocatlan wood Carvers.  We witnessed an artist using a machete to begin to carve a figurine out of a special kind of wood whose name I can?t recall.  We did smell the resin in this wood and learned it is used to make incense for religious ceremonies as well.  The carvings are colorful and whimsical.  The brightly colored painted  animals caught our fancy and many of us scrambled to make purchases. I got three figures, a rabbit, a frog and a cat, while Terry was watching a painter put finishing details on a turkey.  Terry was smitten with the Turkey and while it was quite expensive he wanted to ?think about it? until we visited the next shop.?  The next stop was lunch on Adventure Caravan,(  a thank you for  having to endure the rough entry into the last campground.  Hey we were 4-wheeling in the motorhome, it was fun now that it is over! )  We ate lunch across the street from the wood carvers in a very pleasant outdoor restaurant and Eugene ordered for the group, giving us the opportunity to sample the local mole, soup and turnovers. I loved it all, especially the shot of mescal.
The next shopping frenzy was the Coyotepec Black Pottery.  By this time our pesos are getting low but we are not deterred. I got a basket and began collecting treasures that were very reasonably priced. We first watched the process used to make the pottery.  The son of Dona Rosa was our potter.  His mom was the first to discover the process of rubbing the pottery with Quartz that resulted in a shiny product after firing.  This is quite beautiful.  I bought my favorites for under $100 dollars. When we arrived at the RV Park my good friend Shirley surprised me with a pot I had admired but declined.  She is such a thoughtful person as she thanked us for providing Internet service on the trip. 

We had a market stop and an ATM stop on the way home.

At happy hour tonight, Mike and Eileen made a Grand Slam of Awards, earning Goofy, Care Bear, and The Chicken for a host of humorous, touching and thoughtful events.
We got an update that Les and Cathy are awaiting a new fuel pump. Pat and Hex shared that we might want to drive the route out of the city to see how the traffic crosses itself. They delivered my rug tonight.  It is so beautiful!  The turkey is being delivered to us tomorrow.  Life is short, get what you want!


Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:  0
  Temperatures: High 81  Low 40  Humidity 40% 
      GPS Coordinates: N 17 03.175    W 96  37.876
 

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Betty, Thanks again for your report!  Every time I read them I feel like I've been transported to Mexico! I really appreciate you taking the time, to do this for us, out of your wonderful journey.  Continue to enjoy and be safe.

JoAnn
 
Betty:

Sounds like the new house will have lots of "South of the Border" decor.
 
Betty,

    You seem to be loading up with a lot of goodies... time to check your total RV weight?
Don't want to exceed  your GCWR... :)

carson FL... enjoying your reports.

 
carson said:
    You seem to be loading up with a lot of goodies... time to check your total RV weight?
Don't want to exceed  your GCWR...
Carson,

As I can't read Spanish my grocery shopping has been very limited.  I have used up enough canned goods I brought from the States to off set the weight of my treasures!  How's that for a rationalization? 


Betty
 
Betty Brewer said:
Carson,

As I can't read Spanish my grocery shopping has been very limited.  I have used up enough canned goods I brought from the States to off set the weight of my treasures!  How's that for a rationalization? 

Sounds to me like PLANNING AHEAD. ;D ;D
 
Feb 29, 2008
Oaxaca  Day 4

Today was an experience!  Our group started in good humor wearing ?Pig noses? made out of little Dixie cups as we boarded the bus.  We sang a song to Alice and Pat to give them a feel for the group?s perception of the flavor of this RV Park.  You see there is a pig farm right behind most of the rigs and the roosters crow all night and the pig area is a bit smelly if the wind is in the right direction. We sang to the tune of Old Mac Donald?s Farm   
Adventure Caravan picked a Park,  e i e i o
And behind this park there were some pigs, ei ei o
With an oink oink here and an oink oink there here an oink, there an oink , everywhere an oink oink ei ei o.
And in the night we heard the roosters. Ei ei o
With a doodle doodle here, and a doodle there ei eio
And in this park we smelled a smell. Ei ei o
With a PU here and a PU there  oh my what a smell??.

They were touched by our sense of gratitude and humor.  Our guide, Eugene reported he had never in 25 years of leading tours seen a group do such a tribute.   
Our itinerary included a City Tour and participation in a Traditional celebration unique to Oaxaca, representing the Biblical story of the Good Samaritan.  Each year on the 4th Friday of Lent the community groups decorate booths and develop a beverage to share.  Eugene has never given this opportunity to tourists before and we didn?t quite know what to do. It is quite a festival and we dressed up in our brightest clothes for the event.  We planned that our 7-foot table would have 5 buckets of beverages. One had cantaloupe pieces chopped into it, one was watermelon base, another a rice drink and another a pineapple drink. We mixed a powered mix, added sugar, tasted, and added ice.  In the mean time the group purchased fresh flowers at the flower market, decorated the buckets, decorated our booth with bougainvilleas, roses, daisies, and vines with our Adventure Caravan banner across the back.  We topped this off with an American Flag, A Canadian flag and a Mexican flag.  Our booth was ready early and drinks are not given out until the procession of ?Jesus entering the city? is made.  We signed up to work in ? hour shifts dipping into our buckets and handing a fresh drink to those Mexican villagers who came by.  The day was all smiles.  Many teen-agers used their cell phones to take our photos.  I think is was a very wonderful way to make for good international relations just as had been done by the good Samaritan in Biblical times. Even Terry got into serving the young ladies. The mayor came by our booth and I was filmed on local TV. It was an experience of a lifetime to be so involved with a community event.  We are so fortunate to have had Eugene as our guide who worked hard to make this arrangement for us.  We also had a chance to visit the Santa Doninco Church that is the most ornate in Oaxaca and is still being restored.
We also toured the local market place.  It was quite crowded, had lots of smells and many interesting food items.  I would starve if I had to figure out what to cook by purchasing items here.  I do like my Safeway Markets.  During the trip briefing tonight, Hex updated us on the status of Les and Cathy?s coach repair.  An intermediate fuel pump was replaced and he told us that after the test drive, if he honked while driving back into the park, things were fine and they could continue on with us in the morning.  He just came honking in the driveway.  All of us let out a cheer of applause!


Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:  0
  Temperatures: High 86  Low 47  Humidity 18% 
      GPS Coordinates: N 17 03.175    W 96  37.876
 

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Betty,  great stuff

It is very rational to rationalize... I do it all the time :) especially when I buy new toys.

carson FL
 
Did I miss it - did Terry buy that really cool-looking turkey after "thinking about it"???

Wendy
San Onofre
 
wendycoke said:
Did I miss it - did Terry buy that really cool-looking turkey after "thinking about it"???
Wendy,

Yes Terry did buy that really cool looking turkey.  They finished it up and brought it to the RV Park this afternoon.  I met the woman who painted it and her child.  She spent hours finishing it  just before she brought it out.  He husband carved it out of copola wood using a machete.  It is very lightweight and they use it to make incense for burning in church services.

Betty 
 

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Way cool. I can see it riding on the dashboard kind of like a dash dog. And wouldn't it look great on a t-shirt????

Wendy
San Onofre SB

 
More pix from Cooch(Fern) & Nann(Annette) for the Moreau's, Carriere's and friends to enjoy.  Moving on-up, last week of travels, more site-seeing and much more fun things in the works!
 

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Betty,

What a fun, fun day in Oaxaca-Day 4!  Love those pig noses!  Thanks for a good laugh with that one.  Traveling in Mexico is always an adventure - pig farms and all!

But what a neat experience to participate in that festival.  And, yes, great for international relations which are always better on a personal level anyway.  The locals certainly seemed to be enjoying your experience too!

ArdraF

 
March 1, 2008, Puebla/Cholula (Las Americas RV Park)

Pat and Alice  sent us on our way this morning mindful of the  pig area we were in.

Usually at this time of year Terry and I are at the Nascar Races in Las Vegas.  Leaving Oaxaca today the taxicabs made up for anything we might have missed at the races. We had to maneuver the lanes ending up on the right side as if we had been to England and then back again.  It is actually a very efficient way to move traffic but a bit disconcerting to use the wrong side of the road. Our travel day was relatively easy and interesting as we moved North and West today.  We noticed a change of terrain as we climbed in altitude.  At 6,000 feet we saw pine trees.  We also avoided a car broken down that had used tree limbs to notify on oncoming traffic of their predicament.  There were lots of kids outside the stalled vehicle and we noted how ingenious it was to use the local flora to indicate a problem.  Our top altitude today was 7,950 feet but this was many up the mountains and down again.  I?m sure our fuel mileage was not so good today.  The mountainous terrain was very steep and yet we saw forests of Cardone cactus, thick much like you might have imagined pine trees.  The cacti were single trunks and over 30 feet tall. 

We followed the book and within the city of Puebla the traffic grew heavy and the PEMEX fuel station that was to be our meeting place if we got ahead of the caravan, was not so easy for Terry and I to find, so we missed the side road and waited on the interstate within the bus stop area, until the caravan arrived to lead us to this little RV Park.

At a wonderful Happy Hour tonight provided by Eileen, Shirley and Sherry, I was awarded the Goofy Award because at our lunch break, I noticed number 16 (Fern and Annette) parked ahead of us.  I radioed on the CB.  ?Fern are you in you rig or in the restaurant?  He was reminded of Doreen who has had this communication ?issue? on earlier travels with them and thought of her as he awarded the Goofy to me AGAIN.  I was just being neighborly.  Sandy shared with the group a heart-warming incident that reflects on the positive nature of Mexicans. Hex had to pull over and assist number 14, Bill and Sherry with a slide out problem early in today?s journey.  They pulled over in front of a local camper shell business and the guy opened his restroom so Hex could wash the grease off his hands.  One never ever knows the boundaries that an act of kindness can travel. 

We have passed from the State of Oaxaca to the State of Puebla and will have a city tour in the morning.  Before we get too far away from the State of Oaxaca I wanted to share a few more details with you. I learned the city of Oaxaca is almost 800,000 people and has spread out into suburbs as the city continues to grow.  Eugene related to us that one of the biggest problems Mexico has is Education. He asked if we had heard the bad news from their city a year age.  Most of us had not.  He related to us that the teacher union is the strongest in the country. They seem to strike or picket each Friday.  Their workday is from 8 am to 12:30 pm including ? hour for breakfast.  The teachers involved are from Kindergarten to college.  They are supposed to work 186 teaching days (about the equivalent of a California public school year 180 days) and they have 20 sick days, 9 days they don?t have to call in for anything special. They can get their credential from their parents if their parents were teachers for a mere $5,000.  (Bribe)  He showed us graffiti on local fences that were messages from teachers about their request for benefits from the regular demonstrations.  The starting salary for the 4 1/2 hour workday is $1900 dollars a month.  Plus they have medical and retirement.  I will check these details again with Eugene, as I was so interested in Teacher Union problems that may have over stated the cause.  I just recall from my workdays that negotiations for benefits and salaries with teachers were a stressful time.

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:  226
  Temperatures: High 82  Low 43  Humidity 21% 
      GPS Coordinates: N 19 4 22.8  W  98 17 38.8
 
It sounds like the kids are the ones getting shafted and also poor educations.  So sad!....

ArdraF
 
March 2, 2008, Puebla City Tour

Today Eugene joined us again to show us Puebla.  Two of his sisters live here and have a grand familiarity of the city. The bus toured us around this big city of 2 million, which is fairly prosperous.  Buildings are in a state of completion and some of the residential neighborhoods we toured show prosperity. The State of Puebla does not have tourism as one of its local economic industries.    The VW plant is here is as are several manufacturing plants. Puebla has the 5th largest population in Mexico. Mexico City has the largest population with 25 million people.  We visited Cholula, a ruin in partial restoration. It was interesting as it showed the amount of labor and energy it takes to uncover a ruin.  Notable here was the  Catholic Church atop one of the mounds that indicate when the Spanish came to occupy this territory they built their churches over the temples of the ancients to show who was boss.
Do you know how many states are in Mexico?  Answer to follow. Puebla has a water shortage and the city pumps water only 3 to 4 hours each week.  If you run out then you have to pay for a truck to deliver more.  No one hoses off his or her sidewalks or porches, as this is wasteful.  The city has a very French influence with their architecture. We visited the zocolo or town square today and as it was Sunday got to enjoy an afternoon of free band concerts, balloons for sale and a very pleasant afternoon in a nice setting.  Our first tourist spot was the Talavera Tile factory famous for colored tiles.  My pesos were mostly spent the last few days so I did not purchase any of the lovely tiles or dishes but I really wanted the entire set of dishes I photographed. We were given free time to explore the handicraft markets, a nearby Cathedral and then we met at an upscale Hotel for a buffet lunch. We were serenaded by a pretty good musician and enjoyed ourselves.

Tonight Terry and I shared the slide show of the photos he has taken so far to any who had time and interest. I served champagne and we all ooooowwed and ahhhhheed about the memories we have made so far on this trip!

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven:  0
  Temperatures: High 73  Low 42  Humidity 25% 
      GPS Coordinates: N 19 4 22.8  W  98 17 38.8
 

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moreaual said:
More pix from Cooch(Fern) & Nann(Annette) for the Moreau's, Carriere's and friends to enjoy.  Moving on-up, last week of travels, more site-seeing and much more fun things in the works!

Hi nice pictures, thank you very much Betty for the post they are very interesting.  I would need to talk to my mother though, is it possible for you to have her call me before they get to Texas.  It is not urgent but still i would need to talk to them.  Thank you !!!
 
ok Jo... we will try to find a phone close by.
Dad is fixing something on the motorhome then we will walk down the road to find a phone.  Since it`s not urgent I will let dad complete the work on the slide-out.
Take care, talk to u soon!
 
March 3, 2008  Travel Day to Costa Esmeralda

Another day,?..another adventure!

The trip briefing the night before indicated this should be an easy travel day.  We only had 166 miles to go and we had already been to the RV Park so we knew what to expect.  We were split into 3 groups to allow us  a better chance to keep us with each other out of Puebla as this city of 2 million prepared to go to work on the Monday morning we were to leave.  We had a couple of little problems getting everyone out the gate in-group 2.  Bob and Trish' rig would not fit through the gate at the angle they approached it so many had to juggle positions and Fern?s mirror was cracked by some close calls in backing up.  Pat and Alice were to lead group 1.  Bob and Trish were to lead group 2 and Hex and Sandy were to lead our group 3,  & rigs each.  Piece of cake.  Well, we hear on CB that the leader of group 2 missed the first turn onto the freeway taking one rig with them.  So now Shirley is the wagon Master and not wanting the job!  Bob led Art through a returno and back on course. Hex got his group out but we had huge traffic as the local school was starting and LOTS of kids were walking and parents driving them to school down our little narrow road.  At mile 21 our first tollbooth of the day, we spotted John and Marilyn?s trailer parked along side the road.  WE figured he had a tire problem but actually he was there to inform us that the book was wrong and that we needed to do a returno and then turn left to go on the road to Tezuitulan.  We were happy that he spent an hour there waiting to make sure we all made the turn.  Someplace between Acajate and Rafael, we ran into road construction and a detour that took us under a freeway up onto the oncoming lane and were told to turn on our lights that we had to share the road going this way.  It was very disconcerting to be traveling up an onramp while oncoming traffic is coming down.  But hey we can all share the road. By now it is ever apparent that our book is not going to have reliable information today so Alice and Trish set out ahead of us in the car to  ?find the best way? for us to go.  We lost CB radio contact as hand held CB?s are no so long ranged. 
We come upon Werner and Phoebe sitting in their Roadtrek at a Pemex station and they have been left as sentries to inform us we are to turn left at that corner.  The first group made this discovery after driving several miles out of the way and Walter who can speak Spanish ask a local, the way.  They come back and wait for the Wagon masters to catch up with those ahead.  One by one we travel up almost 8200 feet and come to the city of Tlatacoyan (I think) It reminded me of San Francisco with the terrain.  The narrow one-way streets were obviously built for horses when originated.  The streets were definitely not suitable for 102 inch wide bodies. But we had no choice but to follow the rig in front of us and make no turn until we could see the guy behind us. We heard Pat radio to Walter (who speaks Spanish) to hire a taxi cab driver to lead us out of town.  Walter flagged the cab in front of him who had customers inside and could not deviate but he did at least give us the clue city to look for Nautla.  So we followed the Nautla signs.  Keep in mind there are 21 of us and some are way behind having had to stop for overheated tires, heated brakes, and watching a pick up truck roll over 4 times and land on it?s side missing all other traffic.  Hex rushed over with his fire extinguisher and to assist but no one was hurt.  Whew our caravan has a guardian angel but I think Connie earned some more gray hair witnessing the near miss.  While driving through the streets on this little mountain town I stand up near the right side and cal out to Terry how many inches he has before he hits the street sign and posts, which are built directly at the curb. I call to 12 inches, 8 inches 6 inches, minus 2 inches.  He  ?swerves? with the 4 inches he has to spare as the opposing traffic comes by.  This day was not as much fun as others we have had.  A police officer assists some of us in making a very narrow sharp turn.  Some have to unhook tow cars and back up to make the turn.  Then we head down hill out of town over new road construction.  A grader is plowing up the entire black top so we drive on dirt for a few blocks wishing that this were not happening to us.  Finally we head out of town and down from 8,000 feet or so to 2,500 feet in a few short miles.  Narrow sharp dangerous curves are what had us smelling burning brakes. We are out of the desert region and back into humid tropical climate where bananas flourish as do fruit of all kinds.  When we arrived at Costa Esmeralda it was my turn to prepare happy our snacks.  What a rush.  I had planned on arriving around 1 and having a few hours to prepare but thankfully the time was moved back and at 5:30 we all had some stories to tell about this drive.  Happy Hour for me became Happy Evening and I did not get this typed until today. 
Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 166.7
  Temperatures: High 77  Low 66  Humidity 88% 
      GPS Coordinates: N 20 17 03.6  W  96 49 44.5
 

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