We found the Tetons breathtaking and Yellowstone boring and over commercialized, except for the east exit to Cody.
We actually found the opposite to be true. We liked the Tetons and they were beautiful, but we found that we loved Yellowstone more than and there with much more to do there (for us).
We did drive into Jackson Hole for dinner one night, but we didn't go to the dinner show that was suggested. That sounds like it would be fun. It was pretty much just a town, really...like something you'd also see in Colorado, so it was sort of no big deal, but we went and now we can say we've been there. They did have in the ski area a new thing that was going up that is probably finished now that is suppose to be the highest something or another (gondola?) that will take you up the side of a large mountain. That would have been fun, had it been open, so if that interests you, you could check into that, too.
In Yellowstone...
We stayed at Fishing Bridge in our 39ft motorhome. It was a little tight, but worked out great and we were glad to be in the park...a lot less driving, especially if you're trying to get to different places or are staying out looking at wildlife...or meeting a bus for a tour early in the morning...or going out early in the morning in your own car. We just found the location to be convenient and we weren't spending a lot of time there, anyway...no picnic tables or fire rings because of bears, I guess. You park your toad next to your MH/TT pad, so it's wide as opposed to long...and gives you a little more "forgiveness" room to back in...it can be narrow in some spots trying to back into a sight with a spot on the left and trees on the right, but we managed it just fine. Very glad we stayed there. There was a momma bear and cubs roaming around near there and some coyotes, so be careful of pets. We were there last year in the first week of June, so it's a great time to see a lot of mommas and babies. When will you be going?
You cannot fish off of Fishing Bridge...just fyi...but there's some great fly fishing there...as another poster mentioned.
We ended up taking a few of their bus tours, which I was really not that excited about but my husband wanted to (and with our two kids ages 12/14 I wasn't sure how that would turn out), but it actually turned out to be a great time. We signed up at the Yellow Hotel near Fishing Bridge (can't remember the name, sorry) and we did the tour of Yellowstone and then the Ring one. The full day tour of Yellowstone was nice because it gave an overview of the park and then you know what you want to go back to. The other one was fine, but we did see some of the same things...but it did take us to a few places where they had the bubbling spots that flowed into the river and we might have missed it had we not gone. On the full day Yellowstone tour you'll hit the "hot" spots like Old Faithful and some of the geysers, so it was really nice. You could also get a list of where those tours go and that would be a good starting point for you to plan. Also you can always go to those areas and "listen in" to what the tour guide is saying...they are full of neat information and you'll learn some really interesting facts that otherwise you might miss or not know you missed.
I agree with another poster that said to stop if you see some other people stopped and don't be afraid to ask what they see...just be polite and not yell so you don't scare anything off, if it's close. We stopped at one point and watched a grizzly and her cubs for about an hour and all of a sudden she hauled down the mountain, the crowd split and they walked right behind our jeep! (my husband and kids were inside videoing and I was behind the car behind it snapping shots...it was scary and exciting and I got some great shots!) It was awesome. I also happened upon a coyote and cubs when noone else was around, saw moose, marmots, bald eagles, bison, prong horn, sheep, elk, deer...you name it...we saw it...and usually with babies. It was sooooooooooo awesome. Right down from Fishing Bridge is where we saw the coyote and where bear were spotted. Be careful when driving, too...the animals may cross the road, so you don't want to go too fast and kill anything...which does happen quite often. And the bison think they own the road because actually they do during the winter...so just be patient and enjoy them. We only had one instance when we had to stop and wait and they had rangers on horses herding them through. When we went, we didn't find the traffic to be bad at all, but we were also there early in the season.
We also did a photo tour, which was good, but I think you could just do the main Yellowstone one and have fun just driving yourself around the rest of the time. It 'was' fun to go in the old yellow bus, though! (they've brought these back...starting last year)
You definitely need to try to hit all the areas...Lamar valley is also a great place to see animals. Depending on the area, you will see different animals...so be sure to ask...where do see the "X"? Take a map and write it down so you'll remember, too. That's why you'll want to hit all the roads, if possible...it's a lot of driving, but the different areas are so different in and of themselves and the animals may be different, too. Some places are know for the wolves...some for the sheep...some for the bison and bear...you get the picture.
Also don't be shy to strike up conversation with folks...there are a lot of people there that come yearly and if you spot some people with really long camera lenses, they are a good source, too...and they have radios so they let each other know when things are spotted. Moose are not seen as often since the fire (they've gone more north), so you'll want to really try to see one of those if someone mentions it. Be sure and take a good set of binoculars (and tripod, if possible) and a good camera, if you're into that sort of thing...sometimes in the valleys, you'll be up high and the animals are quite a ways off.
Have fun and just remember that even though they look calm and harmless like cattle, the bison are actually very dangerous and have killed just as many people as bears. Even though they don't look like it, they can run very fast (sprint) and leap a 6ft fence...so if there's one on a path, be careful...they can be mean...and you won't win that fight. Some good advice that we were told about the bison...regarding their tail...if it's up and curved they could either "charge or discharge"...either way...you don't want to be close!
We also drove to Cody for the day and I have to say...although it was a long drive...the Buffalo Bill museum there was awesome. There's no way you can see it in one day, though...but regardless, it's was really neat ?
HAVE FUN!!!! Can you tell we did? I just can't believe it's over...and I'd love to go back and would in a heartbeat. Sorry for rambling, but hope my information will be helpful. ;D
