Canadian Maritimes with Mahoney/Brewers 08

[Betty Brewer]

June 24, 2008 Perce, Quebec,   Camping Du Phare  (418) 782-5588

We left Matane at the  honorable hour of 10:20 this morning as we waited for the fog to lift.  I combed the tour brochure and found an interesting  place to visit less than an hour away, Le Nordais Windmill Park.


 On our way we got our  second fuel up of diesel.   It was $5.84 per gallon….. But we are getting better mileage than Russ because we drive more slowly than he does. He makes rest stops then races to catch up with us.  I practiced my French with the fuel station  attendant and learned that the  windmill park we wanted to visit  was on the right and up a hill.  She said a whole bunch of other things that I hoped meant it was ok to take our big rig up that road!  We spent a delightful 2 hours at Eole Park.  It is in Cap-Chat on the Gaspe Peninsula. Having lived in California we’ve seen the wind turbines in Tehachapi and in  Palm Springs areas but today was the first up close and personal visit we’ve had with the behemoth  size  machines.  The Vertical axis wind turbine in Cap-chat is the tallest in the world ( 110 meters).  It was built as a joint private industry and  Government venture to experiment on the  use of wind to generate electricity.  It started during the 1970 fuel crisis.  Through a series of political and economic reasons, it has not run  for over 20 years but when it did,  it  provide electricity for 400  homes.  The  developer  had an initial contract to receive  25  cents per kilowatt generated and made millions dollars.  It now sits still awaiting parts.  It takes 3 of the smaller wind turbines with 3 blades that are more familiar to us  to generate the equivalent amount of electricity.  Gaspe is the right place for wind turbines as they have lots of wind!! It will soon run again as a private Canadian Company is undertaking a new power venture.  All the companies who service the  windmill park must live in Quebec so it is good for the Province! The experimentation done by the first turbine resulted in changes made with subsequent wind farms.  I’m sure I left out critical details  but this  place was wonderful.  We drove our 40 foot motor home with car attached to the  site .  The turn around radius was wonderful as they had to truck those huge  wind thingys up that road so it was big enough for us.  What a treat!

The rest of the journey around the Gaspe Peninsula today was  very scenic even though it was up and down and very bumpy roads.  I was reminded of frost heaves and Mexican roads.  The road was narrow  but NO traffic.  It is Jean the Baptist Day so locals are at home with celebrations and not on the road.  Par for our travels,  it rained hard in the last part of the trip.  The coastline villages all have pristine white box like houses with colorful shingles on roof.  Every part of the ground is lush green, a testimony to the rain.  The  scenery was that of post cards. Ohhhhh ahhhhhhhh.
We arrived at our Campground after 7 pm, exhausted and ready for supper!  We are tourists’ again in morning  but will go by boat.

[Hfx_Cdn]

Betty we have never had the time to stop either.  However, as I said, Donna's Irish are pre-famine and landed in Nova Scotia.  As for ice cream, it may not be chocolate coated, but when you hit PEI you will have to get a COWS Ice Cream, which has won the award for being the best in the world.

Ed

[Smoky]

Sharon and Smoky are still wondering when and where the Cousins catch up with the Brewers and the Mahoneys???

[Jeff]

Sharon and Smoky are still wondering when and where the Cousins catch up with the Brewers and the Mahoneys???

Smoky:

Probably in late July or early August either in Newfoundland or Nova Scotia.

[Betty Brewer]

June 25,  2008   Perce, Quebec    Camping Du Phare at Perce  (418) 782-5588  ( Passport America Park)


Well duhhhh.  This morning Terry shows me that he’d found that the RV Park we are staying in (and have already  paid for two nights )is a Passport Park.  This means we should have had a rate ½ of what we paid.  I trot to office to see if my French is good enough to get a refund.   No dice, credit cards are already processed.  Because there is so much to see here, we are staying one more night at the ½ rate but lost out  before because  of our lack of attention to our benefits! 

Today was one of the most  gorgeous  days of our trip.  Not only is the scenery around Perce incredible, the weather gods listened to my prayers (Thanks Barb) and we had  crystal clear  blue skies with a warm a nice breeze .  We quickly  made our reservation to go out on a boat ride  around Bonaventure Island and see the Gannet Colony.   Before today I did not know what a Gannet was and now I love them.  Russ  boarded the boat with us a the seas looked so calm.  The boat took us by  Perce rock and then around the cliffs of the  island  where thousands of Gannets make their nests, have babies  and stay until October when they fly south.  I snapped  lots of shots!!! We got off on the  island and Russ took the boat back to Perce. We ate our  picnic lunch when we arrived on the island and  then began the 45 minute hike to the back of the island to see the bird colony.   The first 1/3 of the trip was a gradual grade uphill and I was huffing and puffing wondering if seeing these birds was going to be worth it.   Well let me tell you to see  the thousands of these nesting birds up close and personal was fantastic.  They are beautiful birds.  Ron Maribito will love to  shoot photos of them.  I saw them preening , mating, feeding, nest building and cooing.  The place did smell like a chicken coop and the din of the cawwwing of the birds was a noise that crept up on us as we got closer to the colony.  I saw their golden colored eggs, I saw a few newly hatched babies.  Wow is all I can say.

The topper of the evening was the restaurant where we dined had a guitar playing French singer.  I loved it.  The guys liked their lobster and I liked my French Onion soup.

[ArdraF]

Oh I'm so glad you got good weather there and that you like it there too.  It's SOOO pretty!  You got some great photos.

ArdraF

[Betty Brewer]

June 26, 2008 Perse, Quebec      Camping Du Phare Passport America Park (Not in July or August )


Today was not nearly as pretty as yesterday and Terry is fighting off a cold so we slept in and kicked back.  I did get up some energy to go touring on my own.  I went to the Bonaventure Island National Park. I paid the one dollar tariff,   hiked down the steps to get a view of the rocks and sea.  There I  learned you can’t go  out on the beach on your own.  You need to go with a naturalist Parc  guide.  You also need tickets and you purchase them over by the wharf.  It is at 2:15.  I’m learning all of this in French as  no one  speaks English. When I trotted over to the wharf and no one in the Parc Headquarters with all of the maps and displays spoke English and that all of the guided tours are in French exclusively I kinda lost interest.  I bought a poster of the beautiful Gannets and a book telling me all about them.  It is in English and French.  I am discouraged today with my inability to learn things here due to my language.  So I went to the market.  I refused to pay $2.00  for a small head of lettuce, but I did buy one red onion that ended up costing me $2.02.  I  did not see any souvenirs of interest.  My navigators had a meeting and determined our route to New Brunswick in the morning. 

Since it was not so pretty today I am going to include some of my photos from yesterday and a couple from today.  Terry takes better photos with his camera than I do with mine but I got closer to the baby birds than he did.

Here is something “funny”  I did not tell you about  yesterday.  You know the saying Shit Happens?  I’m here to tell you about a true meaning.  While out on our boat ride around Bonaventure Island a bird flew over and did a “dropping“….right in my ear.  It did not splatter on my face, it did not get on my clothing.  It was a direct hit in the ear.  I was the only one who knew it hit!  It felt wet and waaaaay yucky.  I  used a Kleenex and got most of it out but it left me with a crappy feeling until I could get home and pour Hydrogen peroxide into my ear.  My doctor friend, Russ indicated that fecal matter in the ear is a very uncommon problem.   OK now, Marsha,   Margi and Wendy you can quit laughing.  From now on I am wearing a  wide brimmed hat while out on boats.   
Just enjoy the photos from yesterday and think how excited I was to see these bird colonies even though I was having a bad day!

[Tom and Margi]

 OK now, Marsha,   Margi and Wendy you can quit laughing. 

I'm sorry ... that's just too funny not to laugh.    I've stepped in a lot of horse stuff, but thankfully never took a direct shot in the ear.   

I have never seen a gannet and they are so interesting looking and quite beautiful.   I really enjoyed your pictures.

Margi

[Tom and Margi]

I forgot to ask ... what in the world were you holding?  I wondered that with the first set of photos, then saw the "bird on a stick" in the second set, and still ask "what in the world is that?".

Margi

[Hfx_Cdn]

Betty, we do consider it a sign of good luck when you take a direct hit

[KodiakRV]

Betty, we do consider it a sign of good luck when you take a direct hit

It was certainly good luck for the rest of them that Betty took the direct hit.   

[Ron]

Golly that bird must have had an excellent bomb sight.  Now if I can get Sam to quit laughing.  Sounds like your having a great time bird doo and all.

[Betty Brewer]

I forgot to ask ... what in the world were you holding?  I wondered that with the first set of photos, then saw the "bird on a stick" in the second set, and still ask "what in the world is that?".

Margi,

Terry says to tell you it is a shis ka bob!  I think it may  be a prop used by  the rangers to explain parts of the bird, but I like the shis ka bob story better.

Lucky Betty

[Betty Brewer]

Yesterday we called and reserved our Ferry to Newfoundland.  We are traveing  from North Sydney to Port Argentia departing at 7:30 am on June 30.   We will leave Port aux Basque at 4 pm. for our return on 7/31/08.

 Does anyone know if we can boondock on or near the ferry terminal?  We will be arriving Argentia late evening and hope to stay there if we can. 

We did not think it bad that we were able to get the dates and times we wanted for this ferry by calling just 4 days before departure.

Betty

[Barb]

Betty,
Your welcome.  We all wishing you great weather on your trip.  Thanks for sharing your adventures, I only chuckled. I made a note to self on wide brim hats around the water. Looks like beautiful country.  A speedy recovery on that cold.   

Stay safe, and live life to the fullest.
Barb

[Marsha/CA]

A direct shot in the ear!!!.....I'm still laughing.  I can just picture you trying to "get it out" discretely.  I would have loved to have been there to see that, and your reaction;of course then there is the chance that I could have taken the hit for you.

I have a friend who is a horse shoer.  He has many stories of being under the back end of a horse while putting new shoes on the back feet and being blessed on the head with "horse apples".  I'm sure Margi can picture that event....

Marsha~

[Tom and Margi]

ROFL, Marsha.  It's bad enough when you're brushing the critters and they get so relaxed they "reward" you with a rear blast of air which would set off an LPG detector if one were nearby. 

Margi

[JerArdra]

Betty,

When you were driving the Gaspe did you see any signs like this one, we did?

JerryF

[Wendy]

Had computer troubles last night so didn't get to read Betty's Bird Bomb story until this morning. Thanks for the a.m. laugh. I can't stop laughing thinking it. Me, I wouldn't have been discrete at all....I'd have been yelling the word that matches the item that fell in my ear. So, Betty, did you go out and buy a broad-brim hat to cover your ears from future attacks??

BTW, did you know that very few birds poop while flying?

Wendy
still LMAO

[ArdraF]

Thanks for the good laugh, Betty.  I know it's at your expense, but it's still funny.  Glad you got your ear cleaned out....

I remember that set of buildings with the red roofs.  Such a great setting!

Enjoy your ferry ride.  Don't know about the ferry and parking.  All I know is it's not real close to St. John's.  People are so friendly though that I doubt you'll have trouble boondocking if you see a suitable place.  We got off a ferry at night and ended up in a church parking lot.  The next morning the people at the church were so nice we gave them a donation for their restoration fund to say thank you.

ArdraF

[ArdraF]

Betty, you love to shop so don't miss Irene's Curio Shoppe when you get to St. John's.  It's the oldest retail establishment on the oldest street in the oldest city in North America.  We met Irene's sister and family on the beach at the "Flower Pots" and she told us to stop by and say hello to her sister who owns the shop.  We did that and were very surprised when Irene said her sister had called and told her to expect us!  Again, such nice people....

ArdraF

[Betty Brewer]

When you were driving the Gaspe did you see any signs like this one, we did?

Jerry,
We saw several signs you mentioned.  The highest we saw was an 18% grade.  We were glad it was not winter!

BB

[Betty Brewer]

Me, I wouldn't have been discrete at all....I'd have been yelling the word that matches the item that fell in my ear. So, Betty, did you go out and buy a broad-brim hat to cover your ears from future attacks?

Wendy,

Since no one else saw what happened I tried to be very discreet. I did some very quick digging for my Kleenex and noted to self to carry more with me  in the future.  It happened during the short burst of English translation on the boat and I was trying to hear out my one good ear about Pearce Rock.  Notice I did not share statistics of the rock as I was VERY distracted by the events!  NO hat yet, but it is on the list!

Lucky Betty

[Hfx_Cdn]

Betty since the ferry is about a 4 hour drive from the house, we have never stayed anywhere in Cape Breton on our few trips to NF, none of which were with the Coach or the trailer.  However, I think that you need to get into a lineup for the boat, so and the lot is quite large, it would be my assumption that boondocking is common place.  However, maybe one of those who have taken the ferry might respond.  Everyone seems to have missed the question, they all seem rapped up in your good luck charm.

[Betty Brewer]

Betty since the ferry is about a 4 hour drive from the house, we have never stayed anywhere in Cape Breton on our few trips to NF, none of which were with the Coach or the trailer.  However, I think that you need to get into a lineup for the boat, so and the lot is quite large, it would be my assumption that boondocking is common place.  However, maybe one of those who have taken the ferry might respond.  Everyone seems to have missed the question, they all seem rapped up in your good luck charm.

Ed,

Thank you for catching my question. I shall continue to hope any who have traveled on the ferries can help with my question of the potential for boondocking at Terminal or close by. 
I did get Jerry's answer, thanks.

Still considering myself Lucky, 
Betty

[Betty Brewer]

June 27, 2008  Bathhurst, New Brunswick     Shell Truck Stop  Exit 321 off Highway 11

 We traveled around the Gaspe Peninsula  today and crossed the bridge into New Brunswick. The entire highway  drive today was inhabited with nicely painted and landscaped charming homes. Folks were out painting their trim white or mowing vast yards.  We followed  around little coves and big bays with  views that are very serene. Today we noted a significant increase in RV traffic.  It is the Friday of a long holiday weekend for Canadians as Canada Day is Tuesday.  Upon departure from the Province of Quebec, we were happy to be back in the land of English speakers, but we did  enjoy our stay.

 I told you I have been   following Ardra and Jerry’s  Newfoundland log in forum library and noted that they warned of a low railroad bridge crossing. I wasn’t exactly certain where it was but….. today just after our bridge crossing, Hilda (our GPS missed a turn)  This lead us into  downtown  area to the VERY 3’8 meter underpass.  Given that we need 4 meters to cross under, I almost panicked.  Fortunately there was a right hand turn (truck route) we could make after a friendly driver backed up to allow us to swing over into his lane to make the turn.  Russ followed us right along. We saw the  large stainless steel sculpture of a salmon.  It looked like a nice city to stop and visit but we are making dash to catch our Ferry by Monday morning early. 

The highway into NB was smooth but we  noted many “Danger of Moose crossings”  signs.  This fact was made real when we came upon an accident.  A small car had a smashed windshield and dented front end and a large  moose lay dead behind his car.  My eyes combed the highway sides like windshield wipers  across the road from tree line to tree line following this reality at noon.

  We were headed to a Wal-mart for the night in  Bathurst but we passed an abandoned RV Sales lot in the same lot as a  Shell truck stop, that was huge and completely  empty so we’ve decided to boon dock  for the night .  We will fuel up here in the morning.   Terry walked over to the truck stop store and bought Puff Cheetos for his  snack.  Cheaper than a trip to Wal-mart but fuel in morning will  make up the difference.

[Tom]

I'm keeping up with you in the library Betty 

[JerArdra]

Betty,

Here's a thought.  When you arrive in Newfoundland you probably will have lost the satellite connection to the internet because you will be to far north and to far east at Argentia and even further at St. John's.  I think that you will be further away than you were when you were in Alaska.  That said if you have not already copied Ardra's Newfoundland news letter into your computer you might want to do it before you board the ferry because you may not be able to copy it while you're in Newfoundland.

On two trips to Newfoundland the furthest north that I saw anyone get the satellite TV or internet connection was about 50-75 miles north of the Port-aux-Basques ferry landing on the western side of Newfoundland.    While at the "Gros Morne RV Campground & Restaurant" (709) 458-3133 located at Rocky Harbor on Hwy 430 on the western side of Newfoundland one fellow even had a MotoSat round 3 meter dish and he could not keep the internet connected.  BTW, this campground is private (not provincial), it had excellent WiFi, 50 amp, it's a Good Sam park, and it's in the Trailer Life directory.  Ask the owner for a site out back that has a direct line of site view to his WiFi antenna, I did.  I mention WiFi because if you do get cut off the internet you can still write your newsletters, save them, and send them from this campground after you drive from east to west on Hwy 1 across Newfoundland.  OTOH, maybe Terry can get it to work...I hope he does!

You may want to stay 5 or more days in the St. John's area because its so full of things to do in St John's and the surrounding 40 mile radius so you might call the Pippy Park (709) 737-3669 for a reservation now that you know your arrival time.  The Pippy Park is usually crowed as is the one at Rocky Harbour because that are probably the best in Newfoundland.  For your info Argentia is about 80 miles from St. John's.

Keep havin' fun,

Jerry & Ardra too

[BernieD]

Betty,

Here's a thought.  When you arrive in Newfoundland you probably will have lost the satellite connection to the internet because you will be to far north and to far east at Argentia and even further at St. John's.  I think that you will be further away than you were when you were in Alaska.  That said if you have not already copied Ardra's Newfoundland news letter into your computer you might want to do it before you board the ferry because you may not be able to copy it while you're in Newfoundland.

Betty, as you drive thru the Maritimes and approach a town, there are usually welcoming signboards with icons for the various services available. One of those icons, very frequently, is "@" and you will find internet available in that town, usually at (or outside) the library. Not as convenient as sitting in the coach, but we had internet connections almost daily traveling thru NS and NF. Also, there is a good free wi-fi connection on the pursers deck of the N. Sydney/Port aux Basque ferry.

[Betty Brewer]

June 28, 2008  Amherst, Nova Scotia    Gateway Parklands (Passport America)  (902) ‘667-1106

We fueled up at our  overnight spot in NB  this morning. We paid $5.73 a gallon for diesel. The price dropped a few cents from last fuel up but our mileage was worse due to the  whoop-de-doos around the Gaspe Peninsula.  We traveled south along the coast of New Brunswick today.  Last night my navigators thought it was a good idea to  get off the “main  road” and travel the “scenic route” that was close to the water, Gulf of St Lawrence.   The main roads  Highways 8,  11 or 15 are wide  green tunnels of  pine trees and other green trees with pretty smooth roads.  So we get off.  Now it is a  very narrow green  tunnel with  very poor roads.  Terry’s video equipment  scooted forward in the overhead cupboard  and I could not keep the  door closed.  We  lost Russ as we were later out of the fuel stop.  From  Richibucto we were to turn toward the water.  We did.  The roads were local roads, much of it  one way construction and a long way to the shore.  We followed one road and I remarked “Terry I saw a sign that said 3’8 meters ahead.”  He said, “Sorry hon, I did not  see it.  Look at these big trucks coming toward us, it must be ok.”   Well about 4 miles later we come to  Richibucto Village with their  3’8 meter bridge. ( We need 4 meters to clear)  A VERY nice couple in a mini van that had been following us pulled up along side us and said, “We wondered when you would notice.  We were watching you. “ They gave us directions on a left turn to Indian  Island ( a reservation ) where we could turn around with only a short drive on a dirt road. We phoned Russ to warn him NOT to take our planned route. He thanked us as he was just about to enter the area.   He instead took another scenic route and came to his own short bridge near Shediac.  He had to unhook his toad and turn around in an abandoned business parking lot.   We crossed the border into Nova Scotia and easily arrived at Gateway Parklands  where we  swapped stories. Moral of this story, Do your touring in a car and not a 40 foot motor home  towing a vehicle.  We already knew this but needed the reminder!   Russ and I headed to the Visitors centers in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick as we are so close to both borders.  We armed ourselves with maps and tourist sights so that we know in advance of our destination.  We made an ATM stop, a   grocery stop at Sobeys a very nice grocery store and found the Snow white Laundromat where I later returned for this task. Amherst is a very historic City and we hope to return to see their historic  centers.  I snapped a few photos on the way to the laundry which you may enjoy. 

We have along day (260 miles)  in front of us to North Sydney where we have a Ferry crossing at 7:30 am Monday.  While at the Laundromat I learned we have crossed into another time zone and are now on Atlantic Time.