Mounting Spare Tire Carrier (Rear Door, Driver's Side, Tire Rack)

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mysterymachinevan

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Jun 24, 2008
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Hi,

I have a 1992 Dodge Van Conversion. Will be mounting a spare tire carrier (rack) on the driver's side rear door. The rack bolts easily to the hinges on the door. But the center requires drilling into the body. Is this something I can do myself? I have a drill but no experience in body work!

Here is a picture of the rack on previous owner's Chevy van.
 

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Here is a picture of the back of my Dodge B250. It has no holes pre-drilled. I'm assuming the rack will fit no problem since the Chevy and Dodge vans are so similar.

Anyone know if door hinges are spaced shorter/longer on a Dodge vs. Chevy?
 

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I think it would be rather easy... If the hinge spacing is right and it fits, then simply remove the paneling on the inside of the door first.
  Then drill the proper size hole (with your drill), but only if there is room to place a large washer (or a piece of metal that will fit) on the inside.  Secure with the supplied (?) bolt and nut.. That part is only intended to keep it from swinging out/rattling.
  Perhaps a rubber washer between the frame and the door might also help.

A caveat: If the tire overlaps the opening door (with the handle), you have a problem. Some sort of latch is then required.

  I think I'll quit here and let you get someone else's opinion.

carson FL
 
Comparing my Dodge to the Chevy in the pictures. Looks like the handle will not be covered by the tire. So a latch is not needed.

Looks like the hinges are also exactly the same. (Think the entire door and most of the van is the same.)

My only concern is drilling. Not sure how to remove the inside liner to get at the interior of the door. Can anyone link to a do-it-yourself web page with pictures?
 
I don't think you will find any instructions on the web.
  Most of the time, if there are no screws on the panel, you will simply have to use a flat iron, such as a strong putty knife, wide-blade screwdriver or such to carefully "pop" out the plastic retainers that hold the panel onto the inside. Any body shop can do that in about 3 seconds. But if you experiment, you can probably pop it off yourself; just don't use excessive force.

  Once again, maybe someone else can help more than I can.

carson
 
Carson has pretty well covered it for you. Remove any screws you see on the door panel and carefully pry up on the edges and hope to hear things "pop" loose.  Sometimes the fasteners pull out of the panel and sometimes they pull out of their slots like they are supposed to, but either way they can be re-assembled. And most hardware and auto parts stores have replacement fasteners if one breaks. I don't have a Dodge van or access to one, so don't have any details for you.

Put some sealer/caulk around the bolt so that water cannot seep in through the bolt hole. And use a big washer (called a fender washer) on the back side so the load is spread on the sheet metal. I would use stainless bolt and nut - most garden variety galvanized hardware begins to rust  rather quickly.
 
You can buy an inexpensive tool to correctly remove those fasteners from the inside of the door without them popping through the panel and damaging it. I can't recall where I bought one, but I believe I've seen them at auto parts stores (next to the new fasteners) and at Harbor Freight.
 
Trouble is, there are several different types of fasteners and each has its own special tool. Sometimes the tool is labeled for manufacturer (Dodge) but year is also important, since the fastener type may have changed over time and vehicle type. Check out the auto parts stores for door panel tools and maybe ask the cleark what works on an older Dodge. You might actually find a clerk who knows something (more likely at a NAPA than a Discount Auto).
 
The wonders of Google. Here's a kit that includes several tools and claims to work for most foreign and domestic door panels. It also has one tool you probably won't need, but the kit price is $19.95.
 
In addition to the excellent advise already given I think before starting anything you should get the measuring tape out and confirm if the hinges are indeed the correct distance as well as where the hole is to be drilled. Rememmber measure twice drill or cut once. ;)
 
Anyone know the ballpark charge for an auto body shop to do all this?

I had my trailer hitch mounted at Firestone for $105. I think I was overcharged.
 
I have mounted a spare tire on a back door MANY years ago.  It is not a hard job at all.  Most those door panels have sheet metal screws and or steel clips (5 or 6 of them).  I used a stiff puddy knife myself to pry with.  Wrap it in rags if there is a concern for scratching paint.  Most of those door clips are designed to be installed not removed.  Just take your time and work around the panel.  After you get one or two loss you will be able to see inside with a flash light and the remainder will be easier.

When you mount the tire carrier, caulk the joints with a sealer to reduce future rusting.  We used the back doors a lot so I was not really happy with the tire mounted on one of them.  Didn't really have any other choice at the time.

 
Hey Len & Jo, was reading where you said you mounted a spare tire on your back door awhile back. I have a class B Airstream B-190 and am wanting to mount my spare on the back door also. Have you had any trouble with yours as far as the weight on the hinges, ect? Also do you remember what brand you installed? I'm looking at a Surco model TF100 for my ford Econoline, even though it fits over the hinges and bolts on the other side. Any help would be appreceiated. By the way good job on your van, looks very comfortable and practical. Gotta love those B's.
 
Nothing new, my 2008 post still holds.  No trouble w hinge loading.  Just DID NOT like the sound, feel, vibration when closing the rear door with all that tire weight on it.  Don't remember brand  - was 20 years ago.  If I ever did it again I would look for the heavy construction so it feels and sounds solid when closing rr door.
 
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