We are new to RV ing, with new Monaco Knight coach and new Honda CRV 4WD towed with Roadmaster tow bar, and aux air brake on Honda installed by Camping World. The battery on the Honda dies after 4 hrs if we use lights. Honda recommends pulling fuse 34 ,which is not accessable, for the radio. The key is in position 1 with nav screen off. Is anyone else having problems with dead battery on a honda? Any solution?
Dead battery on towed Honda CRV , solutions?
- Thread starter Jon Cook
- Start date
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John From Detroit
Well-known member
You forgot to tell us WHICH braking system you use on the Honda.. This can make a BIG, and I mean BIG difference
For example if you'd put in a US-gear, Unified brake decelerator.. You would NOT have this problem.
For example if you'd put in a US-gear, Unified brake decelerator.. You would NOT have this problem.
carson
Well-known member
I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. Are you leaving the parking/headlights on in the Honda while towing?
Normally in a hook-up the lights are controlled/fed by the towing vehicle (RV) via the umbilical cord and do not use Honda battery power.
PancakeBill
Well-known member
CW does the Brake Master air aux.
Tom
Administrator
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A number of folks have reported similar problems with various towed cars. In most cases, there's sufficient parasitic load on the car to drain the battery. Solutions vary from pulling a fuse to installing a switch.
Additionally, there is/was at least one brand of auxiliary brake system that would drain the battery. That was quite a frustration for us when we first started towing a brad new car. I finally returned the system to CW, got my money back, and had the M&G air brake system installed. We've only had a couple of issues in the intervening 3+ years, and only if we leave the umbilical plugged into the car and coach overnight.
Additionally, there is/was at least one brand of auxiliary brake system that would drain the battery. That was quite a frustration for us when we first started towing a brad new car. I finally returned the system to CW, got my money back, and had the M&G air brake system installed. We've only had a couple of issues in the intervening 3+ years, and only if we leave the umbilical plugged into the car and coach overnight.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
It should not be your lights that is causing the problem if the toad was properly wired. All power for the stop, turn and tail lights should come from the motorhome, not the toad battery.
The newest models seem to have a problem with excessive power loads when the key is on (or ACC) and engine off - my 2007 GMC Acadia is one of the worst offenders. Like your CRV, GM recommends pulling a fuse that is under the hood and somewhat of a pain to get at. I installed a switch in the circuit so we can just flip a switch instead of burrowing into a fuse box. Works like a champ. I can provide a description of how to make up such a switch if you want to go that route.
You can also add a device called a Toad Charge that will charge the toad battery at up to 10 amps from the motor home while you drive. See Toad Charge
Or you can add a remote controlled battery disconnect such as the Battery Brain
Lastly, have you talked to a Honda dealer about this? They may have some newer advice than what is in your owner manual.
The newest models seem to have a problem with excessive power loads when the key is on (or ACC) and engine off - my 2007 GMC Acadia is one of the worst offenders. Like your CRV, GM recommends pulling a fuse that is under the hood and somewhat of a pain to get at. I installed a switch in the circuit so we can just flip a switch instead of burrowing into a fuse box. Works like a champ. I can provide a description of how to make up such a switch if you want to go that route.
You can also add a device called a Toad Charge that will charge the toad battery at up to 10 amps from the motor home while you drive. See Toad Charge
Or you can add a remote controlled battery disconnect such as the Battery Brain
Lastly, have you talked to a Honda dealer about this? They may have some newer advice than what is in your owner manual.
We have a 2008 Honda CRV and installed an in-line fuse with a switch mounted on the lower left door frame trim in place of the #23 fuse. Total cost was about four dollars. That allows us to "pull" the fuse by turning off the switch and we have had no problems with the battery draining.
Our brake is the SMI Air Force One.
Our brake is the SMI Air Force One.
JoAnn
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2006
- Posts
- 380
I can't give you details on the electronics, but we had a problem with our Pontiac Grand Am. When we first got it we didnt' have a problem, towed it all the way to Key West and no problem at all. The next year, every time we towed it the battery would die in a couple of hours. The only difference was we had an aftermarket auto remote starter installed. Trouble is we never could get it corrected. The installer checked everything and did whatever, but it didnt' help. We traded in the Grand Am last Nov. Got a G6 now and it came with a factory remtoe starter. Have had no problem with this one.
JoAnn
JoAnn
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Roamer mentioned the "Towed Charge"
Very good suggestion
I mentioned the US gear brake system.... The reason it would solve your problem is that in incorporates a charge line from the motor home to the car... I have one small issue with it I may address some day (Ground wire not nearly heavy enough) but that's for another time.
Works well. I've towed 2,000 LEAVING THE PARKING LIGHTS ON on the towed and no battery problems
Very good suggestion
I mentioned the US gear brake system.... The reason it would solve your problem is that in incorporates a charge line from the motor home to the car... I have one small issue with it I may address some day (Ground wire not nearly heavy enough) but that's for another time.
Works well. I've towed 2,000 LEAVING THE PARKING LIGHTS ON on the towed and no battery problems
Thanks all for your responses. The Honda aux air brake is a Roadmaster BrakeMaster installed by CW . The key is in position 1 with no lights on. Honda dealer will not install a switch to the fuse and Honda of America now recognizes the fuse they recommend pulling is in a lousy place - but they offer no useful solutions. I agree the coach should be providing all the electrons for the toad but something is amiss, perhaps a faulty isolator, diode, etc. I will try the switch idea to isolate the fuse, that sounds like a great idea. Jon Cook
Tom
Administrator
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Here's what one forum member did to De-fuse a Saturn for towing.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Any reasonably handy person should be able to rig a switch on the fuse in an hour or two at the most.
Rex
Well-known member
Jeff, where is fuse #23 on a 2008 Honda CR-V? Just bought one and there is nothing in the book about pulling a fuse for towing. The switch is a very good idea.
Rex said:
The fuse box is under and forward of the driver's left knee. The facia under the dash pops off and makes it quite accessible. I made prongs to slip into each side of the fuse holder by clipping off one side of a connector that slips under a screw head and wired the inline fuse to the hot side of the fuse holder (block). The switch came from NAPA and as I mentioned earlier is mounted just above the gas cover release up out of the way but easily reached from the driver's seat.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Here's a simple diagram of a switch added to a fused circuit. In this one a blown fuse is used as the "adapter" to plug into the fuse socket - the wires are soldered to the terminals on the blown fuse. If the fuse socket is a larger type ATSC fuse, e.g. standard or maxi, regular spade terminals can be used instead of the blown fuse, but the mini-fuses require some creativity to come up with a small adapter.
Attachments
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Opening up a blown fuse is the easiest way to get a pre-formed adapter. Takes a bit of soldering skill to attach the wires, though. I haven't tried it myself, but I've seen others.
Sunshein
Active member
I soldered a blown fuse with no problem, added a switch with an inline fuse. Works like a charm. Battery still goes dead after 5 days of towing keeping the ignition switch turned on continuously. I run it daily to circulate transmission fluids which does help the battery, but 5 days seems to be the limit, and it then needs to be driven or charged properly. 5 days usually gets me to a destination where I unhook and use it.
