Replacing water heater

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Tom

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Chris invited our friend Kathy to dock at our house for "a couple of days". Three weeks later she's still here  ;D

The day after she arrived, Kathy complained that one of her bilge pumps was running frequently. Picking up the hatches one at a time, I eventually figured out that the hot water tank was leaking. Fortunately, this boat has a fresh water manifold that allows you to isolate individual faucets and the hot water tank, so it was an easy task for me to stop the leak.

A call to the dealer confirmed it was covered under warranty (phew!).

They don't currently have this particular water heater in production, so they made one to order. Today it arrived, along with the local boat dealer's technician. Getting the old one out seemed simple - remove a few screws, disconnect a couple of wires and a couple of water lines, and lift it out. But, in addition to there not being much clearance through the hatch in the floor of the salon, the manifold was in the way, as was one half of the sofa.

Removing the mounting blocks for the manifold, the sub woofer for the surround sound, and the offending half of the sofa allowed the old water heater to be removed and the new one to be installed.

Kathy is now a happy camper boater again.

In case you're wondering, that boat is 62' LOA.
 

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Forum member Dave (aka sparetime) has the same water heater in a different model of boat. When his started leaking he found out it needed the removal of 3 air conditioners from below decks, at an additional cost of $3,000. Dave chose to leave the old water heater in place, buy a new one and install it in a different place down below.

If/when ours fails, it's behind the waste tank and I don't fit behind there very well. I'll probably be hiring a young, slim technician.

All 3 water heaters are the same brand, as are all 3 boats, albeit different models.
 
Here's what I had to deal with just changing the pressure relief valve on our hot water tank.
 
Most don't Ron and, quite honestly, most don't care. But I can think of a few RV manufacturers with the same design mentality.
 
Ron.. don't you know the rule for vehicle engineers?

Take FORDs for example

I used to have a 1977 LTD.. To replace the heater core you were supposed to drain the cooling system.. Of course nobody ever did that, you just "Heamostat" the heater hoses

Remove heater hoses (2) from heater core

Remove Screws (About 10-12) from cover

Remove cover

Remove pad

Remove core


I recall a story about Henry Ford.. They brought him a new design for a carbarator with something like sixteen screws holding it together and he said "TOO MANY SCREWS"

So they re-did it with just 4 screws  and again he says "Too Many Screws"

So they re-did it with JUST one screw holding it together and he said "Just Right"



Today's Fords.. To replace the heater core

Evacuate the Air Conditioner, Disconnect lines at firewall and cap off

Disconnect heater hoses (Clamp as above or drain cooling sysem)

Disassemble dash, passenger side

Slide AC evaporator out on its rails

Remove heater core from behind the Evaporator


What was a 20 minute job in 1977 is now a multi-hour job requiring special hardware  (Freon recovery system)

You see.. The old system was TOO EASY for today's auto dealer to make money doing the job.



Could be worse though.. . Renault : REMOVE steering column .....

 
And no customers buying Model A's either. Nobody wants the stripper. Heck, nobody wants the little "secretary's car' anymore. Power everything, big stereo, dashboards like an airplane. Henry would be appalled! But I bet he would figure out what to do to sell people cars...
 
RV Roamer said:
And no customers buying Model A's either. Nobody wants the stripper. Heck, nobody wants the little "secretary's car' anymore. Power everything, big stereo, dashboards like an airplane. Henry would be appalled! But I bet he would figure out what to do to sell people cars...

It might be OK with Henry as long as it is black. ;D
 

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