Some newbie Q's after 1st 5er outing: awning tear and water heater leak?

Ok, well we took out the in laws 5er last week to Manatee Springs in Chiefland FL.  It was purchased new in 2001 and only used "ONE" time, so we wanted to get it out and use it for them and they have basically let us have it or use it whenever we want.  We only had a few minor probs and I have taken care of the couple minor leaks in the crank up vents, the probs I need advice on are:

1. The awning has "NEVER" been used and its an 2001 Dutchmen 5er, so we pulled it out, everything seemed perfect not to mention it looked great and brand new, and it was put to the test with some hard afternoon showers, and as I was underneath it I noticed up along the seam/edge attached at the camper which is basically the exposed section when rolled up, it has started seperating/tearing prob from dry rot and sitting in the sun.  My question is what is the best way to fix this?  Also is it something that I can do?  I hate to replace the whole thing over this, and honestly dont have the money to.  Thanks for any advice.

2.  The pressure release valve on the water heater was gushing like a water spicket and would not stop and the leaver was in the closed position, I could push in on the head of the valve lever and it would slow the water flow, but unless I pushed hard and held it in the water would still leak out, so Im thinking it may be the gasket/seal has dry rotted as well?  Any comments on what this may be?  I went ahead and shut off the weater running to the water heater to avoid any water splashing on the electrical componants that were near the relief valve, but hoping its just the seal.  Again thanks for nay help on these matters...

On the hot water problem check this out from our library it might help you solve that problem. link
[edit]Activated link.[/edit]

Thanks, I will try that...Would the water gush as well?  It wasn't just a dribble, it was gushing, and I pushed in on the valve handle/lever and the water flow slowed down, but didnt stop it completely...Guess I'll try that and see if it works if not, Ill check the gasket out...Thanks again...

Any help on the canvas probs anyone?

Can't help on the awning bit - no experience.

Try the air pocket bit, it that don't work, replace the pressure relief valve.  We had a similar problem with out home water heater.  After living with it & turning the temp down and down & ... we finally called a plumber.  He told us that the spring in those things weaken over time and that we would be calling him again in about 5 years.

Joel

Sounds like the pressure relief valve needs to be replaced.  As for the awning it is hard to recommend what to do without seeing it.  Could you post a photo?

Ihave had both problems:
1. Probably need to replace the pressure relief valve.  I could not get mine out and took it to a dealer.
  I would check the T-stats first.But you would probably see if it was boiling.
2.My awning started to rip at the end.  I hand sewed it with fire line(fishing line), and then covered it with Sail repair tape.
(Clear tape I got from a dealer store) It has held for 4 years.

Tony

Speaking of water heaters:

Do yourself a favor. If the drain plug on yours is plastic, when you replace the pressure relief valve, at the same time buy and install either a solid brass one or, better yet if you have the room, buy a quarter turn valve with the appropriate male pipe thread end (likely 1/2" mpt).

Plastic water heater drain plugs were invented by the devil to plague unwary R$V'ers by splitting and leaking when you are in the middle of a two week boondock & miles from any plumbing supplies.

;D  John Alldredge, fulltiming since 2005 in a 2004 Terry Dakota 722F

The quick drain works well if you are winterizing or draining the tank regularly for storage but I remove our drain plug every six months or so to flush out the lime that accumulates in the bottom of the tank. To do that I need to insert a 90 degree hose nozzle through the drain opening so the quick drain isn't of much use.

I am going to get a brass replacement as I have twisted two off so far.

I learned a few years ago that spraying a dose of WD-40 into the "leak" of the valve will stop the leak, at least for a temporary fix till a new one can be installed.

Don

I admit that when my plastic hot water heater drain plug split, I didn't get the quarter turn valve. I DID get the brass plug however. I was thinking at the time that I'd need some pipe dope on it or teflon tape to keep it from leaking. I put it in "dry" anyway, just to see, and it didn't leak and hasn't leaked in two years. Just stipid luck, I guess. BTW, be gentle when you thread in the brass plug. It's going into soft metal threads (zinc casting?) in the tank that won't take much tightening. Snug up JUST enough that it doesn't leak & NO MORE!

John Alldredge 2004 Terry Dakota 722F ;D