Towing a 35ft 5er With 2500 - Feedback Please

Hello everyone!

Been lurking for some time gathering needed information before Gina and I retire fully.  I've been to many forums, truck and rv alike, but I want to ask the quesion of you folks as this is my "home" forum.  I've searched and searched and searched and read and read and read for months now.  I would like to propose my ideal set up and let you tell me why I can or can't do this.  I need your expert advice before I buy and I really do appreciate what anyone has to offer.  Sorry for the long post, but I want to convey that I've done quite a bit of initial research so far.

Gina and I looked at every 5th wheel within a 300 mile radius and others while visiting family.  I think I've seen most of major manufacturers and most of those floor plans.  The one we really connected wtih is med-high grade that is 35 foot in length and weighs 11,300 lbs with a 2,300 pin weight.  I do fully understand that it's probably quite a bit heavier in reality.  I figure 1,000 lbs plus overall and another 500 in pin weight before even adding one single item.  Additionally, I want to add a good pin/brake improvements to control the 5er.

The truck we've chosen is the Chevy 2500HD.  We don't want a 3500 Dually or a 4WD.  In my research, I've found that airbags can more than level the ride.  If I add a wider stance and heavier grade tire and wheel, I can up the poundage to over 5000 lbs per wheel/tire for a total of 10,000+ lbs on the rear axle and increase some sway stability.  The air bags also give the truck the standard ride while not loaded so I prefer this to a helper spring.  From my research, I've also kind of gleaned that the axle itself is rated at around 10,000 lbs, but I'm not sure on this.  Almost everyone agrees in every forum that the D-Max and Ally can pull some really heavy loads both up and down most grades so that shouldn't be an issue.  Lastly, I am doing quite a bit more research into the possible addition of an exhaust brake although I think the tow mode on the newer models uses the transmission quite effectively.  Still open on that one.

The reason I want this type of set up is:  1.  I'm too poor to afford a nicely equipped Class A.  2.  We have found that most coaches smaller than 35 are probably too small for our 2 to 3 months-at-a-time travels., 3.  The 2500HD SWB has a smaller back side, shorter stature, and is a little better at maneuvering throughout the tourist attractions/cities (reason we're doing it).  MDTs and HDT are way out of the question for us, and 4.  My wife does NOT like the Dually look AT ALL!  I have to admit that I prefer the 4X2 as well.

Ok, here goes.  What do you think?  Am I off base in my thinking?  Other than checking my routes thoroughly, driving slower, increasing following distance, and travelilng shorter distances during the day time, what else can I do to make this type of rig work for us?  We will not be in a hurry in our travels.  Lay it on me please--good and bad!

Monty

Using the GVWR and hitch weight of your desired 5th wheel choose a tow vehicle that will handle the selected trailer without exceeding the trucks weight limits as defined by the truck manufacturer.  Remember no matter what modifications you incorporate on a truck the manufacturers defined weight limits remain unchanged.  To exceed a vehicle weight rating one would be jeopardizing their own and anybody with them safety as well as anybody that might be around them.

If you get the Duramax and Allison it will handle that trailer without any modifications. In 4WD with a short bed, that truck is rated to pull a 14,200# fifth wheel and you should be well under that.

The Duramax comes with a variable geometry turbocharger, which is just a turbocharger with inlet vanes that can be adjusted for maximum boost at various RPM's. These inlet vanes are also closed when braking is needed, acting like an exhaust brake. Between the Allison transmission and the variable turbo, I don't see the necessity for adding an engine brake to this setup.   

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Ron said:

Using the GVWR and hitch weight of your desired 5th wheel choose a tow vehicle that will handle the selected trailer without exceeding the trucks weight limits as defined by the truck manufacturer.  Remember no matter what modifications you incorporate on a truck the manufacturers defined weight limits remain unchanged.  To exceed a vehicle weight rating one would be jeopardizing their own and anybody with them safety as well as anybody that might be around them.

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The 5er's GVWR is 16,300.  Hitch is 2,300.  Truck is rated tow cap. is right at 15,000.  This part always confuses me some.  I've added (in my mind of course) to the weakest links on the truck for the purpose of safety (wtih towing)--tire and spring loads.  Seems like an increase from about 6,000 roughly to 10,000 roughly.  With these mods, could I not simply focus on overall weight of 22,000?  In my research, folks typically talked payload over and over as the "deal breaker".  Please understand, I am so not trying to be argumentative with any of this.  I'm actually looking forward to buying a bunch of you a beer or coffee when I meet up with you at some point in the future.  :O)

Monty

bross said:

If you get the Duramax and Allison it will handle that trailer without any modifications. In 4WD with a short bed, that truck is rated to pull a 14,200# fifth wheel and you should be well under that.

The Duramax comes with a variable geometry turbocharger, which is just a turbocharger with inlet vanes that can be adjusted for maximum boost at various RPM's. These inlet vanes are also closed when braking is needed, acting like an exhaust brake. Between the Allison transmission and the variable turbo, I don't see the necessity for adding an engine brake to this setup.   

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That is awesome news.  I just want to be safe and IN MY PLAN while doing it.  The trailer's GVWR is over 16,000.  If it weighs 12,000 dry and I put 3,000 lbs of junk in it (15,000), am I still ok?  Seems like I'd still be under the 22,000 or right at it.  I don't plan on 3,000lbs of junk, but I've never done this so I'm shooting high.

The fact is the vehicle manufacturing has designed trucks to be capable to do its job safely up to a specified weight limit.  The only way to get the weight limits increased is to have the manufacturer approve and issue documentation increasing the weight limits.  I doubt you would be able to get the manufacturer to do the necessary engineering and increase the ratings and if they would the cost would be very high.

To exceed the weight ratings is illegal and could expose the owner/driver to some very serious liability issues.

I would not recommend even considering a truck that does not meet and exceed the weight requirements, as it comes off the lot, of the desired trailer using the GVWR of the trailer and NOTHING less. 

Mi last fifth wheel was a Keystone raptor toy hauler rated at 15,500 lbs fully loaded including a 5 kw onan gen set and a on board fueling station with a 50 gallon fuel tank for the toys. I don`t think I loaded the fifth wheel to the max but it had Two motorcycles some tools and spare parts that we took for the races. We pulled with a 2004 GMC Sierra short bed 4X4 first generation Duramax Allison combo, a Reese 16 k slider hitch, that truck would pull it with no problems very stable and good brakes even with the fifth wheel brakes desabled due to a short in one of the axle magnets on a trip from Daytona to Tampa, FL. The transmission is a dream with the grade brake feature and the tow mode feature. My two cents. Good luck.

AFRetRVWannaBe said:

That is awesome news.  I just want to be safe and IN MY PLAN while doing it.  The trailer's GVWR is over 16,000.  If it weighs 12,000 dry and I put 3,000 lbs of junk in it (15,000), am I still ok?  Seems like I'd still be under the 22,000 or right at it.  I don't plan on 3,000lbs of junk, but I've never done this so I'm shooting high.

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No.  Stick with the trailer GVWR which you say is over 16,000.  The truck's tow rating you say is 14,300 lbs.  That is in the high range for 2500s.   We like to reduce any rating by 10% as a safety factor for loads beyond fluids and driver:  passengers, gear, trailer hitch mechanism, etc.  State of tune, condition, aging and the miseries of the road are in there too.   The reduced tow rating would be 12870.

In short, your 2500 would be a submarginal tow vehicle for the trailer.   It needs a truck with a rating of 17,800 lbs. -- medium duty truck country. One like a Peterbuilt or a F550 with a tow platlform.   A 3500 won't do it.

Messing around with modifications is tantamount to kiding yourself.   You are not going to beef up the frame, increase braking capacity, transmission rating, or raise drivetrain strength or axle ratings.   You will spend a hump of money to get yourself an unsafe ride.   Go for the right truck from the start. 

Carl L said:

No.  Stick with the trailer GVWR which you say is over 16,000.  The truck's tow rating you say is 14,300 lbs.  That is in the high range for 2500s.   We like to reduce any rating by 10% as a safety factor for loads beyond fluids and driver:  passengers, gear, trailer hitch mechanism, etc.  State of tune, condition, aging and the miseries of the road are in there too.   The reduced tow rating would be 12870.

In short, your 2500 would be a submarginal tow vehicle for the trailer.   It needs a truck with a rating of 17,800 lbs. -- medium duty truck country. One like a Peterbuilt or a F550 with a tow platlform.   A 3500 won't do it.

Messing around with modifications is tantamount to kiding yourself.   You are not going to beef up the frame, increase braking capacity, transmission rating, or raise drivetrain strength or axle ratings.   You will spend a hump of money to get yourself an unsafe ride.   Go for the right truck from the start. 

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Carl, wow.  Straight forward.  Took me aback.  Sounds like you and others have to defend this view more than I've read.  Again, I haven't bought anything.  And, I want everyone who wants to chime in, to chime in.  Keep it coming, just give me some references please.  There are SO MANY opinions out there on the subject.  I need more.

I want to explain my thoughts further in the hopes of not getting a pat answer yet I don't want to offend anyone.  The trailer is 11,200 dry (and we know what that means).  Because of it's unusually high carrying capacity compared to comparable mfgs, it's GVWR is 16,290 and not 14,100 as I've seen in some.  It's part of what I like about the trailer.  Now, should I buy a trailer simply because it's GVWR is lower because I might be tempted to fill it or should I buy one with more capability/strength (the one I want) and pay attention to my loads?  I chose the latter in my thought process.  According to often-explained answer, if I go off the GVWR of the trailer, I've lost about 2,000lbs right there.  Bottom line, I would do my absolute best to NOT load the trailer beyond the Chevy's published towing capacity.  I'm going to weigh the thing and when loads change, within reason, I'll weigh it again. 

I've reviewed the trailer life Chevy 2500HD D/A ratings and it's kind of hard to read, but it seems a Crew Short bed tows about 14,800 I believe.  I can't find my Chevy booklet, but I'm pretty sure the 2008 was a 15,000 tow rating in it.  PLEASE PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.  It's paramount to my thinking.  Most agree that the only difference between the 2500 and the 3500 SRW is the additional leaf spring.  The air bag is a very common addition and a good substitute for that spring.  Many on the DMAX site state it doesn't affect the warranty, but they have stated that it's paramount to keep the load level or it could affect the steering components and safety of the tow.  I also want to put air bags in because it's a simple "let the air out" to get the quality ride when not towing vs springs.  The stronger wheels and tires?  Well, it's overkill again, but more safety margin from stock isn't it?  So, from my perspective, I'm choosing a truck from the get-go that is rated by Chevy to do the job as is If I keep the 5er under 15,000 which will be very easy.  From there, I'm adding some strength, sway and leveling control.  Isn't that a good thing?  I'm not sure where the other modifications mentioned come from.  The frame, trans, and axle are more than enough to pull the advertised gross.  Gross is gross and mfr says it can do it.  Gotta stick with that label don't we??  Actually, that was a little bit of a label jab.  I remember the patrol officers/LE from several states trying to educate folks over and over again that there is no legality issue with the sticker nor do LE enforce it with RVs.  The label doesn't even have to be there, but I digress.  I don't need to increase braking it seems, but it's surely and safely possible according to many.  I'll just drop that, but I thought someone might chime in and endorse it.  The airbags are very cheap even with the compressor <$500 I've heard.  Tires and wheels are up there close to a couple grand.  Not too bad for the extra piece of mind and safety.  For sure, someone should applaud the extra safety features shouldn't they?  The mods aren't expensive and you have to keep in mind that people make modification to vehicles in so many ways, like the addition of a hitch or the addition of a brake controller which are both necessary to tow a 5th wheel, but wasn't on the vehicle nor even available in the earlier years from the mfr.  And about towing capacity, it varies A LOT based on the configuration of the truck bed, cab, engine, 4WD, etc.  So, that tells me that the real number is the Gross with the secondary being the rear axle load (payload).  3500?  3500?? Wouldn't do it.  It just a 2500 wtih two extra wheels (for all intents).  Realistically, the dually adds sway control and some marginal braking I guess, but it's more for piece of mind.  For me, the 3500 reduces the DMAX overall gross pulling capability and the other issues I mentioned in the OP.

I have also read in the DMAX site that these newer trucks with their braking systems rock.  There are many testimonies of folks pulling way more than gross through the hills of the west and that the D-MAX/Ally does it quite well up and down.  Before you get upset with that statement, I DO NOT buy into that unsafe philosopy, but what I take from it is that I can count on the Chevy to pull what the manufacturer says it can.  I figure they can at least stand behind that.  I respect so much of what many folks here tell me believe it or not.  It has brought a balance to me and helped shape my views, but I can't agree with everything everyone says.  I don't understand the safety margin above the mfrs ratings with the 10%/20% east/west deal.  In this case, I'd rather go with what the mfr says the truck can do.

My wife and I are big people.  Like I said the MDT and HDT are out of the question.  Before I abandon my dream rig, can you re-educate me further?  I'm thick skinned; give it to me.  And I'll do you the honor of treating you the same way with straight-forward honesty.  If my rig needs to be a little smaller, I'd rather go that way.  Right now I don't see it.  But, I don't know it all nor will pretend to.  I just want to know more.

Monty

First of all, don't guess. Read the Chevy specs, including tow ratings, HERE on the Chevy web site.

A 2500HD diesel crew cab short bed 2WD hauls an impressive 15,200 lbs (4WD reduces that considerably) and has a 3500 lb payload as well.  But you can't actually pull 15,200 unless you leave the wife home and keep the truck bed empty, because everything carried in the truck beyond a 154 lb driver and full fuel tank has to be subtracted from the towing capacity.

It is our experience that a 16,000 lb trailer GVWR soon fill up and that's what you really tow. Maybe you will be the exception, but it isn't wise to count on it.

We personally know of someone who hauls a trailer that size (actually a bit larger) all over the USA with a 2500HD like you are considering. They report excellent performance and no need for an exhaust brake - the Allison grade brake does fine in all terrain. Normally I would be skeptical, but I know the person to be a cautious person and a highly skilled engineer. And I know another who hauled a 36 foot Carri-lite with a 17k gvwr many thousands of miles with a 3500HD Duramax with total aplomb. That truck can really haul - and stop too.

I cannot in good conscience say it is OK to exceed the truck's capacity, but I suspect you will be just fine doing what you want.

RV Roamer said:

First of all, don't guess. Read the Chevy specs, including tow ratings, HERE on the Chevy web site.

A 2500HD diesel crew cab short bed 2WD hauls an impressive 15,200 lbs (4WD reduces that considerably) and has a 3500 lb payload as well.  But you can't actually pull 15,200 unless you leave the wife home and keep the truck bed empty, because everything carried in the truck beyond a 154 lb driver and full fuel tank has to be subtracted from the towing capacity.

It is our experience that a 16,000 lb trailer GVWR soon fill up and that's what you really tow. Maybe you will be the exception, but it isn't wise to count on it.

We personally know of someone who hauls a trailer that size (actually a bit larger) all over the USA with a 2500HD like you are considering. They report excellent performance and no need for an exhaust brake - the Allison grade brake does fine in all terrain. Normally I would be skeptical, but I know the person to be a cautious person and a highly skilled engineer. And I know another who hauled a 36 foot Carri-lite with a 17k gvwr many thousands of miles with a 3500HD Duramax with total aplomb. That truck can really haul - and stop too.

I cannot in good conscience say it is OK to exceed the truck's capacity, but I suspect you will be just fine doing what you want.

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Thanks for the link Gary and you are 100% in line with what I'm thinking.  I also re-read the Chevy trailering at the bottom.  I also wanted to correct my previous post--the 3500 Dually has a GCWR of 23,500.  Not sure how it can pull more with the same drivetrain, but it doesn't matter.

Just remember when one exceed the weight ratings then they are exposing themselves to serious liability issues should an accident occur in addition to jeopardizing your safety as we as anybody with you or around you.  Get the truck that has the proper weight ratings for the GVWR of trailer you intend to pull.

Well, it seems that you're kinda fixed on the Chevy, which I will agree is a fine combination with the AllyMax.  However, unless you are just a die-hard Chevy guy, and nothing else matters, maybe you should check out the Fords.  You can get a properly equipped F-250/F-350 with a max 5th wheel rating of up to 16,400 pounds, and that's with a V-10.  Otherwise, the ratings are similar to the Chevy.  The new Superduties are pretty impressive trucks, and are certainly worthy of a look anyway.  And while I know you're not looking at the duallies, I honestly think with the GVWR of that trailer, you need to give it some serious thought.  A properly equipped F-350 will bump you up over 17,000 pounds, which would be well within your trailer specs.  And the same things apply as far as "how well it will tow".  Yes, a F-250/F-350 will still pull a trailer heavier than it's rated for just fine, but it comes back to the ratings and the reason they were put there.  In the end, you're probably going to do what you want anyway, but hopefully you will at least seriously consider "bending" a bit on what you want, vs what you need. 

Ron,
Yes sir, 20+ years Air Force trained with a serious safety mindset.  You should talk to my kids.  "I know, I know, Dad."  I am fairly comfortable with the stats (as I was before the OP) although I'm watching for more inputs.  Especially, those who tow similar rigs.  What I really want to do is try and drive a rig close to the proposed setup see if I feel ok with it.  If I'm tight-cheeked over it, I probably won't do it.  Right now, I'm fairly certain of the rig set up.  This is the last ditch effort on my part to see if I've missed something.

EdJr,
I am kinda fixed on the Chevy.  I looked up the comparable Ford diesel (must be a diesel for me as well) and it's 15,700.  I've driven the big 3 quite a few times although not towing.  I didn't have a real preference with any of them when I started.  I currently drive a Toyota truck.  Initially, I liked the looks of Dodge and to a lesser degree the Chevy.  I ruled the Dodge out right away.  I felt the interior was cheap, the engine loud, the turning kind of odd, and the get up and go slower.  The Fords jarred me when I rode in it and the interior was way too busy and distracting.  Also, the Ford's identity changes quite a bit from 150 to 250 and the wife didn't like them in any flavor.  I keep thinking about the Fords though.  And, if it comes down to choosing between a Ford and a smaller RV, I will definitely choose the Ford.  IMHO of course, the Chevy has everything, the interior look, the exterior look, features, the ride (especially the ride) and the get up and go like you wouldn't believe.  These are all just a personal preference!  I respect everyone elses opinions and choices in life.  It's like a great man once told me, "Relish in the differences of poeple.  It is the spice of life."  If I were to fight over "my truck" that, to me, would be like fighting over which pizza is better, supreme or meat-lovers--nonsense.  I personally haven't completely ruled out a dually.  It's a deal-breaker for the wife (I'd have to convice her) and although I like a nice butt, not on my truck.  She'd rather go to a 32' RV instead of a dually.  Also, consider, I've been looking and driving these 3 regularly for over a year now and will continue until ready to purchase.  I'm hearing rumblings from Toyota on a Super-Tundra diesel.  If they manufacture a SRW similar to the one on display at Motor Trend, I'm all over it.

Thanks again all.  Just call me the long-poster.

Monty

Like every body says SAFETY FIRST. The question is, are you really gonna tow that fifth wheel  fully loaded? water tank, fuel tank I mean, to the maximun allowed load stated on the sticker? I know that to be safe you have to consider giving up about 10 percent of the weight, we pulled a little over 40,000 miles with the 36 feet long Keystone Raptor and never had a problem handling or stopping. And if you have good driving habits, there`s nothing to worry about. The fact of the matter is you need to buy something you will feel confortable with, not to buy a set up and prove the world how much your truck can pull and be the guy with the biggest rigg at the campground. I realized long time ago (been camping for over 17 years) that peace of mind while driving is the best way to enjoy a camping trip, Knowing you are doing everything right without braking any rules and exeeding any limits. My personal opinion. If the truck is rated at 15,200 lbs? Go ahead and load it a total of 15,200 lbs. if something happens due to weight issues?  It`s not your fault. I don`t see the point of spending more money on a bigger truck and spend more money in fuel and maintenance to gain 1,500 lbs or more when there`s plenty of options to buy a fifth wheel out there with different weight ratings.

busa said:

Like every body says SAFETY FIRST. The question is, are you really gonna tow that fifth wheel  fully loaded? water tank, fuel tank I mean, to the maximun allowed load stated on the sticker? I know that to be safe you have to consider giving up about 10 percent of the weight, we pulled a little over 40,000 miles with the 36 feet long Keystone Raptor and never had a problem handling or stopping. And if you have good driving habits, there`s nothing to worry about. The fact of the matter is you need to buy something you will feel confortable with, not to buy a set up and prove the world how much your truck can pull and be the guy with the biggest rigg at the campground. I realized long time ago (been camping for over 17 years) that peace of mind while driving is the best way to enjoy a camping trip, Knowing you are doing everything right without braking any rules and exeeding any limits. My personal opinion. If the truck is rated at 15,200 lbs? Go ahead and load it a total of 15,200 lbs. if something happens due to weight issues?  It`s not your fault. I don`t see the point of spending more money on a bigger truck and spend more money in fuel and maintenance to gain 1,500 lbs or more when there`s plenty of options to buy a fifth wheel out there with different weight ratings.

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Words of wisdom.  It's better to educate folks on the process so wiser decisions can be made--create a safety mindset that'll carry over into other areas of life.  You have got me to thinking.  When the Air Force moved me, seems they allotted about 1000 lbs per room.  I remember my entire house including furniture weighed less than 5000 lbs.  With this current rig in mind, I assumed that 1000 would go to the truck, passengers, tools, and other truck-loaded items which would leave roughly 2000 to load within the RV (after you consider that the RV weighs 1000 lbs more than rated dry).  I don't see a need to keep much of anything in the tanks except a small amount in the black tank for cleaning.  We'd have table items, bedroom, and bathroom items, laptops, and dish, etc.  All of that added, I can't imagine even getting much over 1000lbs.  Plus, we wouldn't be true full-timers.  It'd be 2 to 3 months out we imagine.  I'm curious, what do you carry for an RV payload?  What are your heavier items that eat weight?

Monty

In my case it was the  2 motorcycles, about 380 lbs each (race drag bikes) and a 7 drawer tool chest about 250 lbs, and some spare parts, tires and a Nitros filling station about 200 lbs. One thing we always did was to buy food and drinks, fire wood, charcoal, things you plan to use that camping trip at our destination, you will be surprised how much weight that takes specially for 4 people, doing so also saves time if you want to leave home early and beat traffic, also, after we arrive at a campground we like to drive around and see the area and you spend a couple of hours doing nothing, must of the time there`s a Walmart or a food supercenter around.  You can also buy plastic leveling blocks instead of wood blocks, there are too many ways to reduce weight, and believe me, it adds up. Next thing you know, you saved 350 to 450 lbs of weight ( that`s the weight of a motorcycle) by being wise about your decisions and planning propperly.

Pots & pans, canned goods, fresh food in the fridge, glasses, cutlery and table stuff, lawn chairs and maybe a little side table or two, probably some recreational equipment (what are you going to do all day?), clothing, shoes, towels and wash cloths as well as dish towels, soaps and laundry stuff, medicines and first aid stuff, cell phones & chargers, binoculars, and on and on and on. It all adds up amazingly fast. But you allowed an extra 1000 on the trailer dry weight, another 1000 in the truck and 2000 for other stuff and that will likely cover it. I'll bet the truck is loaded to its max payload, though, and also at or beyond its rear axle GAWR with the heavy trailer hitched up.

You will carry about 20 gallons of fresh water so you can flush the toilet or top of the radiator if needed while traveling.

Carl, wow.  Straight forward.  Took me aback.  Sounds like you and others have to defend this view more than I've read.  Again, I haven't bought anything.  And, I want everyone who wants to chime in, to chime in.  Keep it coming, just give me some references please.  There are SO MANY opinions out there on the subject.  I need more.

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References:   

Tow ratings: Mine come from Trailer Life's tow rating tables on their website -- which see.   Mfr tables are as good for their particular brands.

Use of trailer GVWR instead of UVW:  Bill Estes in his The RV Handbook and my own experience with crap multiplying to fill the space available for its storage.  Things like awnings and optional equipment are not in UVW.   An actually scaled weight of a trailer as fully loaded for travel is better, but hard to get if you do not own the trailer.

The 10% safety factor:   Tow ratings are set for a driver and all fluids on board.   Passengers, gear, dogs, cats, tool boxes, coolers, surf boards, and 5th wheel hitches or WD hitches are not included.  The tow vehicle is rated at new condition, but they do get older, parts wear and maintenance can be deferred.  Finally there is the fact that even turbo diesels lose rated horsepower from altitude at the rate of 1% per 1000 feet -- gassers lose 3%/1000.   Thus a TD in Flagstaff AZ on its way to the Grand Canyon has lost 7% of its rated HP.   For the purposes of estimating suitability of a rig prior to buying and to sum all this up, I allow 10%.  Don't like 10%?  Pick your own number but allow something for all those factors.

Anyway, my numbers say for that huge trailer that you want, the 2500 is not adequate.   Its emergency handling and wear would be compromised.  Like anything, a lot depends individual circumstances and luck -- it is a gamble.   Folks that have won their bet are available for comment.  Folks who have lost the bet are not available ... any more.

More truck or less trailer.

IMHO anybody that tows trailers or drive motorhomes exceeding the published weight limits for the vehicle are just gamblers.  The stakes in this game can be very high considering the exposure to risk of injury or even death let along the huge liability exposure.  No matter how careful or good a driver is they cannot always plan for others actions.  I.E. a person runs a stop sign and a person driving an overloaded rig hits them instead of the driver running the stop sign being the guilty party that caused the accident it becomes a shared responsibility which could end up cost big bucks even if they do survive.