Caulking, silicone or other.

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adun015

adun015

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Joined
Oct 22, 2008
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283
Is there a down side to using the silicone based caulking. I did find out after ordering a roll of Eternabond tape ( missed it in my research ) that it does not adhere to silicone. I am using the silicone caulk now but have no problem removing and redoing but If I still have a good area on both sides of the silicone caulk for the Eternabond tape to adhere to or should I remove and re-caulk?
My current plan is to caulk with the silicone caulk and cover the areas including caulk with a product called Proflex. This is a paint on product and is suppose to provide a water tight seal. Use the Eternabond on the straight stuff like vents and ac's. After all is done put a coating of Kool Seal on roof for the small (hairline) cracks. The Kool Seal would be applied pretty much on everything as a final back up for the roof.

 
Nor can you paint silicone. Nothing much sticks to silicone, nor to any place silicone ever was, unless cleaned thoroughly with mineral spirits (or better yet, lacquer thinner) first.
 
Personally I recommend using only what the manufacturer recommends which will not be silicone.  Silicone has a lot of down sides like paint will not stick and Eternabode doesn't like it either.  I would say stop using the silicone.
 
My overall experience over quite a few years with using silicon is very negative, it loses its adhesive characteristic thus as a result is not even a decent sealer. I used 3M 4200 then Eternabond. Pricy but I never want to do it again at my age!
 
If you need a clear sealant on an RV (or anywhere), try Lexal. That's both a brand name and a sealant type. It is a crystal clear, non-silicone, sealer that is paintable. It is very low sag, so it can be used on vertical surfaces or to seal around accessories, wire holes, etc. I find it in many hardware and home stores these days.

But for roof work I would still recommend Alpha or Dicor Lap sealant, which are designed for RV roofs, sealing vents, etc. They are available in self leveling and non-sag formulas.
 
Thanks guys, I wasn't to far along that I could not back up and redo. When the Eternabond arrived I was reading the instuctions and saw the piece regarding the silicone and thought maybe I had better rethink this.

Again thanks.
 
What is the general consensus regarding the use of Kool Seal as a final step in waterproofing for the fiberglass roof? If not Kool Seal what would work for this application. I have these small hairline cracks in some places & I want to be sure to get a good seal over the entire roof. This is an 85 model and does not appear to have had much roof maintance in a good number of years. I am going to order the Dicor self leveling for the roof and the non sag on the side seams. once this has set continue per original plan but want to make sure the Kool Seal will be a viable solution on the fiberglass roof.
 
Kool Seal or similar paint on products should work well enough as a top coat. I've used it on a house roof with success and a neighbor just stopped a bunch of pinhole leaks in an aging metal roof with it. I also used it on a concrete & stucco side wall and it made it look great. Sealed it up nice and gives a bright white finish.

Make sure you use the elastomeric product rather than the aluminum one (unless you have a metal roof on the RV)
 
What about Tri Polymer sealants?  They claim they stick to wet or greasy surfaces, and will stick to anything around an RV


Is this true?So far I am finding them fairly good, although they set up slowly

RANKJO
 
IMHO, any silicon caulk has no business being on the exterior of any RV.  There are much better sealants available - I am partial to Dicor (or any of the self-leveling sealants) for horizontal surfaces and polyurethane for non-horizontal use.  On the boat, I always used 3M 5200 (the best caulk ever made I think) which is absolutely waterproof and won't degrade.  It is so tenacious though, it will never turn loose from whatever it was applied to.  3M 4200 is a good caulk and is removable.
 
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