Keys for doors

  After 4 years of ownership of my Winnebago, I finally figured out that that I don't have a key for the lock on the drivers seat door. I always lock it with the internal slide switch.  I always had a 'strange' key that would fit the main entrance door, with a lot of coercion. My regular main entrance door key works fine. I noticed that the 'strange key' was not cut quite right.

  I finally tried the 'strange key' in the drivers door; no dice.

  Would I be able to get a 'key number' from Winnebago for my RV, using the VIN number? What other choice would I have?

  No rush, just a simple question.

carson FL


 

carson said:

   
  Would I be able to get a 'key number' from Winnebago for my RV, using the VIN number? What other choice would I have?

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Carson, I have purchased replacement keys at the factory store - Winnebago used the number on the key.  In my case, they only had one of the two I needed already cut, so I bought an uncut one and had the little hardware store in Forest City duplicate the one I needed.  I don't know if they can cross reference your serial number to a key number - you should probably call and ask them.  Once you get a key number, order it from Lichtsinn in Forest City (Winnebago won't sell directly to customers.)

If Winnebago can't give you a number, you might need to contact a locksmith.

John Canfield said:

Once you get a key number, order it from Lichtsinn in Forest City (Winnebago won't sell directly to customers.)

If Winnebago can't give you a number, you might need to contact a locksmith.

Click to expand...

John nailed it.

Thanks very much John. I was hoping you would have the perfect answer. I do not have a key number; next step...call Winnebago. If no luck, then a locksmith would be the answer.

  I haven't really missed the key for a long time so that a little phone call won't hurt. Thanks for the link  to Lichtsinn.

  These little problems come up when one has too much time on their hands, in February. 

  All my previous little/big problems have been fixed; have no other hints or tricks I can disseminate.

I'll declare my old Winne as "everything works".

carson FL

Logically the lock sould take the same key as the other door  HOWEVER

Due to the ways RV's are made.. I'd not guarantee that  (Far from it)

Your contact the manufacturer suggestion is beyond a doubt the best idea.

#2 is drive over to a locksmith.  A GOOD locksmith..... I know one in the Detroit area

John In Detroit said:

Logically the lock sould take the same key as the other door 

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Logic - that would be nice - I haven't figured out why I have two different locks on my door.  One is the door release lock, the other is the deadbolt.  Not only are they differently keyed, the key design is slightly different.  The key thing isn't a big deal for us since we always use the electric locks (key fob or number entry panel), but we have hidden keys for a backup.

One of the two keys operated the fuel fill door, and I have never ever been able to figure out which key does the job - it's always a matter of random selection.  I'm not even sure why the little door is locked - you could easily open it with a little force from your fingertips (but I digress...)

John Canfield, a little update an my major problem. I contacted Lichtsinn via e-mail and got an immediate response; Thanks for the suggestion to contact them.

  Since they were not able to supply a key via VIN number, they suggested a new "barrel" key unit for my problem. It would include 2 keys for $19.98. (in stock) Can't lose.

  Next, I tore apart the door mechanism and retrieved the assembly containing the barrel. Not a big problem, just a lot of screws on the door panel and several other nuts to get the door handle off the door.

  Now, how to get the key barrel out... I am stuck. I can't figure out to get the barrel out without the proper key. Am in conversation with them now on how to do that. Probably have to take it to a local Locksmith to have it removed, with their expertise.

  Once that is resolved I'll order the new barrel. I don't even know why I am doing this, because I have never had a reason to lock or unlock the drivers side door from the outside.

  This message is intended to confuse everyone reading it.  Have a nice day....
carson FL



 

carson said:

  This message is intended to confuse everyone reading it.  Have a nice day....
carson FL

Click to expand...

Now I'm getting scared - I think I understand what you said  :-\

Stand by for action, John.  Whatever I start I finish, sometimes. 

Pictures to follow when I am done.

carson

I was wondering if there was no locksmith available to make you a new key.  I think using a locksmith would have been easier but then one wouldn't get the experience of doing it themselves.

Sound like I may be to late, but my 99 uses the same key as my basement locks. I could not get it to work and then I notice a engraved image of a key on it and it show me which way to insert the key. The key will go in both ways but only work if inserted the same as the image.

Thank you for the suggestion, Glenn.

  My basement key is absolutely not the type of key that would fit my door.

Guess I'll have to go with my original method, as stated above. I should have the answer in a couple of days. I'll report when I get this "horrendous" problem solved.

carson FL

My key is a small key with Tri/mark on it with black rubber on it.

Wish it had helped.

My report on the project now completed.

  Please re-read all posts to get a feel for situation.

  After I dis-assembled the door lock assembly ( panel, locking unit, etc. 14 screws, 2 nuts, spring loaded attachment, etc) I found that the key cylinder could not be removed without a key; I didn't have a key.

  I contacted the source provided by Jon Canfield (thank you) and they told me that they could not cut new keys without a number. They offered a new cylinder with 2 keys for $20.00. Sounded great.
Problem was how do I remove the cylinder to put a new one in. My only choice was to find a local locksmith (found a good one in my town) to remove the cylinder. They used their master key, after some fiddling around, to remove the cylinder.

  Their answer was to purchase 2 newly cut keys for $12.50 and all would be fine. I agreed.

  Today I re-installed all components and all is well. A by-product was that I was able to lubricate all the linkages inside the door area which made quite an improvement in the overall operation of the locking/ unlocking system of the drivers door. Guess after 13 years no one has ever set eyes on that area.

  (This is turning into a story---sorry). The locksmiths, having been in business here for more years than they want to remember, (their quote) have a thriving business. It so happens that the keys they cut will also now open my main door on the passenger side. (DYOC).

  One other thing I learned from these pros was that they recommended using WD-40 on locks. They said that  my lock was probably rendered inoperative from an ingress of water, road dirt, etc. over the years and had plugged up, corroded the tumblers in the lock cylinder. They cleaned it out and all is well.      An interesting sideline; they said not to use the graphite puff stuff on the locks because it will clog it eventually and attract dirt and water. Use WD-40, they said, it'll remove the water (true) and leave a trace of lubricant behind, just right. This was new info to me as I asked another locksmith a few days ago and he said...graphite is the only thing to use. I think I'll' go with the WD-40 idea.

  One other bonus: Inside the door assembly there was a label stating where the door was made and what the key number was: TM 2xx. I also found that this Winnebago door was built like a tank..all steel and super strong. Thank you Winnebago.

  I took a few photos but did not post them...this is a boring topic, I would think. If someone would like to see my pix, let it be known.

carson FL

Good to hear you got it fixed Carson.  Sounds like you received a bonus of knowledge in the process.  Thanks for the feedback.

Great report, Carson!  I don't find practically any mechanical discussion boring, so a couple of pictures would be fantastic.

Ok, folks. here we go with a few pics.

#1: Inside door panel with window crank removed, 1 screw
#2: Outside lock mechanism
#3: Door - inside panel
#4: Door -mechanism
#5: Key panel
#6: ID label

   I hope this will clarify the situation. I am open to further questions. (I am a teacher at heart, but only on technical things.) I can fix anything mechanical (almost) except broken hearts.

carson FL

Edit: one little screw-up: picture 3 should be picture 7.

Carson, Thanks for posting the photos, as we both have older Adventurers. I agree with the WD-40.

Carson - they had your key number on the id sticker 

What about PB Blaster instead of WD40?  (Sorry, inside joke...)

Thanks very much for taking the time to post the pictures - I love pictures.

Although Carson's experience is somewhat unusual, and perhaps a scenario which I dont' entirely understand; for the rest of us run-of-the-mill types:

Winnebago door and basement locks and keys are all manufactured by TriMark. There are only 10 different key codes, all cross-referenced to the last digit in your cab serial number. The keys for my rig are coded and stamped on the key: TM435.

Although you can purchase new keys from TriMark, I buy my new keys in bulk every year or two from my Winnie dealer: $33.00 for a bag of 10! We do a lot of family (big) camping trips every year; and since we are the only ones with a motorhome, Winnie becomes the control centre for stuff like the grandchildren baby feeding station, baby nap time, preferred sanitary kiddie bath facility etal!  : In fact, we are often declared off limits to our own rig for hours at a time!!  :-\

Anyway, at the start of one of our family camping events, we pass out keys like they were candy. Some of them actually get returned at the end of the event, while others might show up the following year. Notwithstanding, our annual key order is pretty much routine: "Hey Joe, send us another bag of TM435s!" Ordering them from our Winnie dealer is actually less expensive than obtaining them from local locksmiths, who don't even carry the blanks, or other third party sources.