Battery Boost Switch

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SargeW said:
If you are referring to the "momentary" switch on the dash, then the answer is yes, according to a post on another forum that claimed the info was from Winnebago.  However, Winnie started installing a Trick-L-Start on coaches starting in 2006.  Have you checked your 12V breaker box to see if one is there? 

It also depends how dead the battery is. The momentary switch is intended to boost a battery that is just a little too low to turn over your motor.  If the battery is really dead, like 9 volts or so, then you won't get your  battery charger to charge the battery no matter what. 

I have read where some folks have stuck a match stick under the momentary switch to provide power to both sets of batteries.  I have not had the need, so I have not had to test the theory.

Sarge

My MOM switch has never worked, at least the few times I really needed it to work. When I push the switch, I do hear a 'click'. How can I check it out and what likely needs to be replaced? I always need to carry a battery jump-start when I go over to storage, just in case...

Thanks-
 
While it is true that if a cell shorts in two parallel batteries the OTHER battery will be deep discharged (in many cases) it is also true that a DEEP CYCLE battery just might recover from that, if it is not done too often.

But this is indeed another of the "Scare" things I hear on multi-battery installs

And many, many, many vehicles are designed this way from the factory, WIth 2 or more batteries in parallel

In any case if you belong to the "All the batteries need to be indentical" crowd (I do not) then when you replace one battery you will automitacally replace the others at the same time so what difference does it make?

The one danger in parallelign is if you put something like a Group 24 next to say a D-8 and the 24 shorts a cell (or worse 2) the D-8 will try to charge it

And there can be enough current to cause a battery "Explosion"  (Likely very little, if any damage)

A fuse (well 2 fuses) can prevent this    Size the fuse by determining the max current you will ever pass and work out the battery's share

IE: in this case (Roughly 300 amp hours) if you might, draw say 300 amps. tops, the G-24 gets an 80 amp fuse and the D-8 220

You could round up to 100 and 300
 
Richard 34A said:
My MOM switch has never worked, at least the few times I really needed it to work. When I push the switch, I do hear a 'click'. How can I check it out and what likely needs to be replaced? I always need to carry a battery jump-start when I go over to storage, just in case...
Thanks-

A common way these solenoids fail is to burn and pit the internal contacts to the point that they do not make contact when the solenoid picks (clicks).  Have someone activate the switch (make sure it's the solenoid that is clicking) and measure the changes in voltage (if any) across the two large terminals of the solenoid.
 
I called Winnebago Factory service. I ,in fact, called twice so I could talk with 2 different folks. Both said ok to tape the boost switch on for a specific period of time. They recommended using tape or a match box cover to keep it open and do it at a specific time, such as dinner time and then the next day at dinner time it should have fully recharged the engine battery. Obviously the assumption is that I am hooked up to shore power.
 
Richard 34A said:
My MOM switch has never worked, at least the few times I really needed it to work. When I push the switch, I do hear a 'click'. How can I check it out and what likely needs to be replaced? I always need to carry a battery jump-start when I go over to storage, just in case...

Thanks-

Probably the easiest way to tell if your solenoid is working is to start your engine and use the voltmeter in your 'OnePlace' to check the voltage of the house and chassis batteries - both banks should be above 13 volts (unless they are way discharged.)  If you don't have a Winnie-supplied voltmeter, do one of two options:

- as Lou suggests you can meter across the large solenoid terminals with a voltmeter while the solenoid is operated.  You should not read any voltage

- use your voltmeter and meter house and chassis battery banks - both should read above 13 volts (unless the batteries are way discharged)
 
Does anyone know of a retail outlet that sells Trik-L-Starts, or do they only sell on line?  Ole cheapo me trying to avoid shipping charges........
 
tallyo said:
Does anyone know of a retail outlet that sells Trik-L-Starts, or do they only sell on line?  Ole cheapo me trying to avoid shipping charges........

I'm not sure if brand name really matters on these items (some may disagree)... I got my 1.5amp trickle charger in the Wal-mart automotive department for $17.  It's worked flawlessly for almost 2 years now anyway.
 
scottydl said:
I'm not sure if brand name really matters on these items (some may disagree)... I got my 1.5amp trickle charger in the Wal-mart automotive department for $17.  It's worked flawlessly for almost 2 years now anyway.

Scotty, there is a difference between a Trickle Charger (may be generic) and a Trik-L-Start?.

The trickle charger usually needs 120vac where the Trik-L-Start? does not.
 
Ok folks I ordered my Trik-L- Start........... yes I am paying $4.95 S&H... supposedly will be here next week........The things I do to pamper myself. ;D...... My wife thinks it's ok for her to go shopping now...... :eek:

Some how she thinks, and I know she got it from her mother,  "what's good for the Gander is ok for the Goose"........or is it "what Goose gets gandered is not lost?"

Anyway it's on it's way to my house....just in time to start the summer travels.......
 
I know that and you know that...but to my wife something that is useful is a credit card in a store that is selling women's clothes and/or shoes at 40% off....... :eek:
 
Just make sure you are getting a three stage charger, not a traditional trickle charger that will keep charging until the batteries boil dry. Googling for Battery Minder is another option.
 
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