generator sizing

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aaronfisher

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Joined
Apr 17, 2009
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17
my question is how big of a generator do i need for my 2008 funfunder X with all the nice stuff A/C, LCD, DVD, microwave, sound system and i want to upgrade my stabilizer jacks to electric models and upgrade my furnace but thats for another thread
 
aaronfisher said:
my question is how big of a generator do i need for my 2008 funfunder X with all the nice stuff A/C, LCD, DVD, microwave, sound system and i want to upgrade my stabilizer jacks to electric models and upgrade my furnace but thats for another thread

The correct way would be to add up all the watts of all the stuff you expect to run at the same time and your generator should be a bit larger than that. All those items should mention their wattage on a small metal plate somewhere on the item. In some cases, where no wattage is mentioned,  you will have to multiply the amps by 120 to get the wattage.  IOW, 2 amps at 120 VAC would be 240 watts. Also, if you see "VA" ratings, treat them the same as watts. IOW, 50VA as 50 watts.

It's mainly the large stuff you need to add, such as your A/C units and microwave and things that get hot that run on ~120 VAC, such as a coffee maker or hair dryer. Add a few hundred watts for all the small stuff together that doesn't get hot, such as DVD players, LCD TV's etc. and you should be okay.



-Don- SSF, CA​

 
also the shore power cable is only rated for 30amps so i did some quick math and came up with 3600 watts so ill just look for a generator that is rated for 3600w continuous with a 30amp outlet on it, does anyone know what the lightest/quietest generator with a approximate running time of about 6-8 hours that meets my requirements?
 
You are starting to get pretty heavy, more power means more weight. There is no other way around it with today's technology. Have a look at the Honda EU3000is. It is 2400 continuous so you need to be selective about what you run together. For instance, the A/C and furnace will not normally be running at the same time and neither would be on while the jacks are leveling the unit. I hope you are not the type that cranks up the 10 gazillion watt stereo at the campground, a few of those have seen power cords go missing. ;D
 
i have looked at the Honda EM3000CC, I'm a nice camper Ive only got a 100watt amp so even if i wanted to be loud i cant and i respect the 11 o'clock rule
 
Unless you get a quiet one look at inverter generators the seem to be quieter.

Be hard to hear the stereo over the generator  ;D
 
The Honda EU3000is is much better generator for campers, but it is a few hundred dollars more. Much quieter, though, and more fuel efficient too.
Honda EU3000is

The Yamaha EF3000iSE is another good one.

Check around and maybe you can find a sale on one of those. I've seen them for around $1700 from time to time.
 
I just fired up my brand new Honda 3000is last night and hooked it up to the camper to see if it would run my AC.  It handled the "first" surge when the AC came on fine and powered the unit with no problems (I have a 29' camper so the AC is one of the smaller units...not what you'd find in a 5th wheel).  However, I pushed the thermostat down to shut off the AC and then pushed it back up to see how the generator would handle the next surge and it overloaded.  Tried it a couple of times with the same result.  So then I got to thinking...the AC wouldn't ever cycle as quickly as I was doing it, right?  I ran it thru the first surge, no problem...then I waited at least 30 seconds and turned it on again.  No problems!  There must be something that recharges along the lines of a capacitor somewhere in the line that needed a break between surges.  Since that scenario was more frequent cycling than it would do when hooked up and running for real, I'm in good shape with the 3000is.

A couple of things to know if you do buy one.  Shop around.  I called three places in the back of Trailer Life magazine and got prices ranging from $1699 to $1899.  All had free shipping.  I got mine from Speedway I think in Wisconsin.  Mine didn't come with oil in it and I didn't have any on hand so that cost me a day of playing with it.  AND the 30A plug on the Honda is a 3-prong locking plug that's NOT the same as the RV plug coming off the camper so I had to go to an RV store and pick up a converter plug ($20) so that cost another day.  The only other thing I picked up for it was a 2-wheeled dolly from COSTCO that fold flat when not in use and can carry 150 lbs ($21).  The 3000is is 135 lbs and was a beast to haul around on my own.  The wheels really helped.

Now that I have everything hooked up and tested out, I'm very happy with the Honda.  It's very quiet and it's a Honda.  ;)
 
Keep in mind a Kipor generator as well.  As quiet (or dang near) as the Honda or Yamaha, and so far just as good as near as my experience tells.  I used mine after Hurricane Ike and had it running almost continuously for a week until we got power restored to the neighborhood.  The battery (for the electric start) positive terminal corroded off so the starter would not work, but it still started after that on the first or second pull of the manual start.  It has been a very good generator for me, and considerably less expensive than either the Honda or Yamaha.
 
ibrewalot said:
!  There must be something that recharges along the lines of a capacitor somewhere in the line that needed a break between surges.  Since that scenario was more frequent cycling than it would do when hooked up and running for real, I'm in good shape with the 3000is.

Modern RV A/C units (and residential units) have a built in capacitor on the compressor motor.  Usually they are a bit undersized due to pricing constraints (1-2 Farad), but they are there.  I suspect the delay did in fact allow the capacitor to charge.
 
While there is a starting capacitor, the reason for a delay between shutting off and restarting is to let the high pressure equalize.  Restarting too soon can damage the compressor.  A delay of about 2 minutes is usually sufficient.  Most surge protectors have a ~2 min. delay built in when first connecting to shore power for just this reason.
 
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