HWH Jack System Parts

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Ned,

As per other RV forums and threads on this forum, you appear to be one of the lucky HWH systems owners. :)

Once inexperienced HWH system owners learn the design and part's quality quirks..it'll work. For the many unlucky ones..that learning curve is very costly..and really that situation should be the exception.. not the rule. :(

Factory service is excellent...but, way too much is needed by many owners for a system that should be a quality RV industry standard. :(
 
Considering the number of HWH systems installed, I would say the problem ones are the exception.  One doesn't hear from the many thousands of trouble free installation owners.  And how many of those problems are caused by the RV manufacturer, like my reservoir mounting problem?
 
Good point..but I hear your point from a lucky owner's perspective with over 13 years of RV experience working all systems in your brand of coach. :)

Yes, many problems originate in HWH systems through assembly line of manufacturer (Winne) ...and Winnie's factory service is excellent. I have been there 3 times for other factory system needed repairs. While standing in the customer reception lines...one can hear many service visits centered around HWH jacks and slide systems. :(

I suggest you start a poll. Focus the poll on customer satisfaction with HWH systems, reliability, customer service..quality of parts etc..Let's see where those numbers tally..

I'll bite the jack pad if I'm incorrect. :-\
 
If you can get me a list of all the HWH owners, I'll email them and ask :)
 
I see 1525 reads of this thread as of now..list of many knowledgeable and experienced HWH owners are here on this forum for a meaningful poll.. 8)

Search IRV2 HWH threads/posts too.. ::)

Have at it...the poll...while my jack pad has no snow on it. ;D
 
Ned said:
If you can get me a list of all the HWH owners, I'll email them and ask :)
Well, I'm one.  My RV is 10 years old with factory installed HWH jacks.  I had to repair a pinhole leak in one this year, but they ARE 10 years old.  My only complaint is actually against Coachmen for mounting the reservoir in a near inaccessible location.
 
Molaker said:
Well, I'm one.  My RV is 10 years old with factory installed HWH jacks.  I had to repair a pinhole leak in one this year, but they ARE 10 years old.  My only complaint is actually against Coachmen for mounting the reservoir in a near inaccessible location.

Ned,

Molaker makes my point of experienced folks already here on forum and thread. :D

Besides...nobody wants more spam e-mail.. ::)
 
Charlie,

My experience with the HWH 325 series jack system on my 6 year old coach hasn't been the best.  In the year I've owned it I've had to replace three solenoids & the springs on the front jacks.  I've ordered a can of the 3M Silicone spray you recommended & I plan to keep the jacks lubricated so they retract quickly.  Thanks for your posts.
 
Lighting up this thread again...

I've asked this question on another forum and had zero response, probably because those with issues are here...

On our 34H I extended the slides yesterday. When retracting them the rear slide decided it was gonna stay put. The problem appears to be in the valve as I can release it manually and it will retract under power. I have voltage going to the solenoid, so that leaves the valve itself.

I'm calling HWH in the morning, but am curious how these valves attach, are they screwed in? How hard are they torqued? Access to this area is a PITA but I think I can get a grip on it with channel locks or maybe a chain trench. I REALLY don't want to try and take the manifold out, so any words of wisdom are welcome.

tnx, Jeff
 
SCVJeff said:
Lighting up this thread again...

I've asked this question on another forum and had zero response, probably because those with issues are here...

On our 34H I extended the slides yesterday. When retracting them the rear slide decided it was gonna stay put. The problem appears to be in the valve as I can release it manually and it will retract under power. I have voltage going to the solenoid, so that leaves the valve itself.

I'm calling HWH in the morning, but am curious how these valves attach, are they screwed in? How hard are they torqued? Access to this area is a PITA but I think I can get a grip on it with channel locks or maybe a chain trench. I REALLY don't want to try and take the manifold out, so any words of wisdom are welcome.

tnx, Jeff

Jeff,

I have not R & Rd any of my solenoids yet..but when I have to.... I plan to use a small plastic handled rubber strap wrench wrapped around the base of the solenoid coil. Make sure the solenoid coil external surface is squeaky clean..try rub alcohol on rag..wipe the coil surface thoroughly. Then, make sure the rubber strap on the wrench is squeaky clean too..

I would expect about 30 pounds of torque to loosen it. Proceed gently...Re-torque about the same.. Some folks say the solenoid coil sometimes unexpectedly unscrews from the threaded core insert valve and getting that threaded core insert valve out of the manifold is a real tricky PITA. I've seen that this threaded core can sometimes be gently removed with a large hand screw extractor....

Charlie
 
I replaced the solenoid yesterday... Geeesh what a pita.

A suggestion to anyone that needs to do this is to buy a Spanner Wrench!!!!  I took my strap wrench, a chain wrench, and a big set of channel locks, but the hydraulic lines prevent anything like the strap wrench from wrapping it. Also there is exposed +12v directly below this particular solenoid, so I really had to be ultra careful in there. The channel locks finally got the bite I needed (it was tight), but this whole operation would have been done way sooner if I had a spanner wrench for the job (turns out I did, just didn't know it  :-[ ).

That wrench now lives in the coach.
 
Excellent post.

Lots of types of spanner wrenches. Please post a link to the actual style you used.

Was it a remanufactured solenoid you installed or a new one?

Charlie
 
(Original post at Wnnebago Forum. Photo attached credit from John Canfield)

I just experienced some manifold bronze hex head leaks... one hex was spurting fluid during operation but stopped when jacks were cycled off. I found all four were only finger tight. The one spurting fluid was less than finger tight. Since owning the coach from new delivery, there has never been service to that maniforld assembly. How those hex heads loosen..puzzles me..

I tightened all four back to about 25 # torque (finger snug up + 1/4 turn)..Leak fixed.

So..if you see hyd fluid puddled on ground under HWH pump compartment, and you find lots of fluid on top of the pump manifold, check all four of the top bronze hex heads for security.
 

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Still can't figure out how to do a linked pic insert on this forum, so here's the link:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r192/SCVJeff/5207674d.jpg

The problem with this one is that you need to attack the solenoid at an angle to avoid the coil wires. The one I really want attaches to a 1/2" ratchet. But it's also $80
 
[quote author=SCVJeff]Still can't figure out how to do a linked pic insert on this forum[/quote]

That's because they're disabled here Jeff, thanks to prior abuse.
 
Pubtym said:
I have a 2006 Itasca Suncruiser Model 35 U. I, as well as others, hear and read posted horror stories of repair bills and operator challenges to keep four on the ground...or four stored. We all can agree...HWH has a fine design for the leveler jack system...but this discussion thread provides my research into some of their key system parts...and their documented high failute rates. Basically, a system is only as good as the quality and reliability of its parts. If alternative higher quality parts or part ideas exist, I try to provide them to you...

Before I get into specific parts..I need to provide some background information so we can all be on the same page..for considering specific issues with each part.

1. Industry Manufacturing Standards.The IP Code (or International Protection Rating[1], sometimes also interpreted as Ingress Protection Rating) consists of the letters IP followed by two digits and an optional letter. As defined in international standard IEC 60529, it classifies the degrees of protection provided against the intrusion of solid objects (including body parts like hands and fingers), dust, accidental contact, and water in electrical enclosures.[2] The standard aims to provide users more detailed information than vague marketing terms such as "waterproof". Let's focus on the first and second digets of the code..with special emphasis on the second didget.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code

2. HWH Information Bulletin, Jan 10, 2006.

"Due to extreme weather conditions, exposed electrical connections can become corroded and deteriorated to the point of causing system failure in as little as one month of operation. On all vehicles, especially where exposure to road salts and deicing chemicals is common, all electrical connections should be protected from these conditions. Crimped and soldered connections should be protected with shrink tube. Ring terminal connections such as pump relay connections and frame ground connections should be thoroughly coated to provide protection."

http://www.hwhcorp.com/mi9554.pdf

3.The following is a quote from Drierite Website:

"Adverse Effects of Moisture"

"Water and water vapor probably cause more damage than any other contaminant, either by direct attack or by indirect means. Dampness can promote the growth of mildew or fungus. Water molecules on the surface of metals can cause rust, tarnish or corrosion. Water vapor in the atmosphere can promote chemical reactions which will corrode or destroy the material that comes in contact with the products of reaction. While the insides of a compartment or container and its contents may feel dry to the touch, a considerable amount of water may be adsorbed on the surface or in the pores of them. Changes in temperature can desorb the water and condense it into droplets causing water spots, localized corrosion or other deterioration. "
[edit]Added link to drierite.com[/edit]

More on specific HWH parts...and the relationship of the three paragraphs above?.....more to follow
 
Care to edit/modify your message and fix the quotes?
 
Pubtym said:
(Original post at Wnnebago Forum. Photo attached credit from John Canfield)

I just experienced some manifold bronze hex head leaks... one hex was spurting fluid during operation but stopped when jacks were cycled off. I found all four were only finger tight. The one spurting fluid was less than finger tight. Since owning the coach from new delivery, there has never been service to that maniforld assembly. How those hex heads loosen..puzzles me..

I tightened all four back to about 25 # torque (finger snug up + 1/4 turn)..Leak fixed.

So..if you see hyd fluid puddled on ground under HWH pump compartment, and you find lots of fluid on top of the pump manifold, check all four of the top bronze hex heads for security.

The leak returned around one of the 5/8 inch bronze hex heads. :(

Called HWH for fix of the leak. Tech said each of the four hex head bolts has a thin hard rubber "O" ring at the base of the bolt head to seal the bolt when tightened and chances were 100 % the "O" rings were deteriorated and compressed. After 5 years, the rings needed to be replaced if evidence of leakage. HWH shipped me the four new "O" rings "no charge".  ;)

I cleaned off the top area of the manifold around all four of the bolts with a spray can solvent (electrical connection cleaner).
I pulled each bolt separately with a 5/8 inch lug and stubby 3/8 inch ratchet.  Then, I took a cotton swab stick and cleaned around the lip of the threaded hole so as to not get any micro FOD in the hole. I rolled off the old "O" ring from the bolt, cleaned the under base of the bolt head where the "O" ring seated, then replaced the seal with the new one by rolling it into position on the bolt. Reinstalled the bolt to finger tight..then finished tighten with about 25-30 torque.

After all bolts/seals were R & R, I cycled the jacks. Leaks fixed.  :)

Charlie
 
Pubtym said:
After 20 miles driving and allowing the Hyd Reservoir tank fluid to slosh around the magnet...and with 10 cycles of the jacks and a few with the slides...the results of the magnet are in...not pretty! :eek:

To the left of the photo shows the dark gray metal micro FOD that has already attached to the magnet on the "dip stick" ...To the right of the photo is my telescoping magnet where swabbed the bottom of the reservoir tank...and the same dark gray metal micro FOD.

My point here is that without a filter type device...even a magnet...this junk circulates throughout the jack and slide..pump system and slowly chokes up.. tears down valve surfaces and switch seals...resulting in premature part failure.

Magnet in your tank anyone?

Refer to Post #9.

This magnet dip stick continues to serve its intent. This weekend I checked it after 1 year of jack/slide use. Again, it was covered with metal micro FOD. I wiped all off the magnet and reinstalled.

After two years since I flushed the system tank and installed the new fluid, the color of the fluid remains the desired clear red.
 
Pubtym said:
...I go back to Trombetta Website...this time looking for an intermittent DC contact relay to replace the HWH OE master Relay. I found this one.
Trombetta # 684-1211-212 (L bracket curved).

http://www.trombetta.com/dc-contactor-products.cfm?id=2

The new Trombetta Master Relay arrived this morning and I wrapped up change out late this afternoon. BINGO...all's working again..pump activation is immediate...working all jacks and slides. Full jack retraction time is 1 min 45 secs. ;D

Pics of OE HWH Master Relay (right side) along side of Trombetta (left side) posted below. Note the significant increase in coil size on the new Trombetta..Again, the Trombetta is IP66 and 67 rated ;D
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to ask if your Trombetta Master Relay is still working.  You used an intermittent-use relay.  HWH says intermittent-use is okay for the pump relay, but the master relay should be rated continuous-use.  I think the equivalent part number would be 684-1211-012.

Edit:  OOPS.  I guess Pubtym is long gone.
 
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