Heading to Canada

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Hfx_Cdn said:
Do stock up on beer before you hit the Maritimes, it is a lot more expensive again

Yup, you can stop at the Irving Big Stop and Restaurant that is in Qu?bec, just a few feet from the NB border.  They usually have beer at 25$ for 24, you will pay 40$ for the same thing in New Brunswick.  Needless to say NBers living close to the border go in the Qu?bec province all the time to stock up.  The NB government, in all it's wisdom decided to market it's own beer made for them by Moosehead at the amazing low price of 18.70$ for 12 to encourage NBers to go to QC to buy beer.  That out to work.
 
Bonjour from Quebec We are HERE!!

(warning-long)

As we crossed into Quebec province on Thursday, we feel like we are stepping into a new world, French is everywhere and so is the rain?rain?rain?rain.  We begin looking for an information center and find it several exits after we entered Quebec province.  The center is being either remodeled or newly constructed so we were directed to a temporary facility and run into our first problem.  Although the parking looked pretty good we spied an area where we could pull through into a large turn around area and still be able to get out.  Wrong, we didn?t see the cording stretched across the entry way so we find ourselves stuck and blocking other people who were parked.  We started to feel panicked and then reminded ourselves that this will probably happen again, so we take a deep breath. We?ve got the hooking up/unhooking down to a quick art, so we got the car off, coach parked and ourselves out of the line of traffic pretty quickly, then headed towards the buildings where the people ?don?t like Americans and only speak in French? were supposed to be.  Boy what a surprise!!!  As we opened the door with much trepidation 7-8 smiling young faces said Hi! Can we help you?  Wow, we didn?t expect that at all.  We had, after all, been practicing our limited French for the last several days and lo and behold they all spoke great English.

Juan, (Tim?s computer with the Streets & Maps with GPS) map showed us crossing under the St. Lawrence River through a tunnel in the heart of Montreal.  Tim and I debated changing our route since we didn?t know the clearance, but the young man that helped us said it would easily clear 14 feet.  I asked him what that was in meters and he didn?t know.  Now that, I did thought, was strange.  His routing through Montreal was through the tunnel and he said we should not have any traffic this time of day.  We also were given several great touring guides, a campground guide and he marked several places of interest for us to visit.  We left very happy and much relieved.  Back in the parking lot we re-hook the little car and off we go to Montreal.

The roads are really in bad shape as we approach Montreal and we are watching and trying to figure out signs as we go and actually having fun.  We are sorta getting the hang of it with Tim driving and me with my ?Cliff Note? version of highway translations.  Once we are in Montreal, traffic comes to a stop and creeps for the next two hours.  This was OK with us because we could see everything and had lots of time to try interpreting the signs.  And, the traffic just seems like we are in Los Angeles, CA, so it?s nothing new to us.  Charlie (the dog) also thought it was neat.  When he gets a bit bored, he moves to behind the driver?s seat where Tim opens the small window and slides the screen over so that he can ?peek? his head out only when we are creeping along.  As we are stopped on the ?Autoroute? (interstate) he has a chance to look out and see everyone in the cars.  He tail wags at 50 miles per hour, people wave and he thinks he?s a celebrity.

I am not sure if we found the heart of Montreal, but we saw a lot of the industry, some newer areas and probably sat next to most of the population as we inched down the road.  We did notice that most of the cars were small sub compacts with very few large automobiles and SUVs common in the States.  At last we make it through the tunnel under the river and eventually to the campground.  As I checked us in I asked about the traffic and was told that that was normal traffic.  At any rate we enjoyed the city excursion and decided we might try to spend a few days exploring more of Montreal on our return trip.

Friday and it should be my turn to drive, but I?m concerned that Tim can?t read the small fine print on our cheat sheet and; what else is new, once again it is raining.  We have a short drive today and we quickly begin to recognize ?travaux? which means road work.  It also helps that there are icons used to help describe things.  We decided to stop and have lunch/breakfast which ever we feel like at the moment.  As we pull into a truck stop, following their ?RVs this area? sign, we realize that we don?t fit and are able to ?squeeze? around the cars and find the truck parking area.  It was a very nice place to stop AND?.BEER IS CHEAP!  Lunch and a chance to stock up on beer, what else could a couple of Californians wish for.  Remember our discussion on Pontine: the French fries and cheese curds covered with gravy?  Well, it was on the menu so we decided to try it.  I actually got brave ordered mine in French ??Sil Vous Plait Pontain poulet petite, Merci?.  Of course the waitress spoke English, but she got a kick out of my French. 

I was a bit worried the dish would be very strong, especially the brown gravy.  It seems that brown gravy is heavier and harsher in the States; however, here it was light and very good.  We noticed you could order just regular fries with sauce (gravy).  We both decided we really liked it and will definitely try where Marc suggested and get it again.  I can definitely attest to it being a cholesterol and heart attack meal on a plate.

The road from Montreal to Quebec is terrible and of course we have more rain and now we can add fog.  So we toddle along, find the campground and get settled in once more.  With no internet (rain problem), we decided to check in with the campground office to see about taking a city tour tomorrow.  The office was helpful, with broken English and pamphlets.  I called the tour company and found that we just appear at their tour bus sight, pay our Canadian money and hop on.  No special pick up service at the campground like Betty and Terry had for those who are on the south side of  St. Lawrence Seaway.  (  :p to Betty).  The first tour at 9 am is English speaking, so we are planning on getting to the ferry early.  As we had some time in the evening we wanted to make sure we knew where we were going, so we grabbed our maps and Jill (My GPS) and took off looking for the ferry.  It was very easy to find.  But because we can?t read the French information/instructions, we search out where to park the car and where the entrance is located.  We also drove through the town of Levi looking for food for the kitties.  Tomorrow, we plan to pack our backpacks, wear good walking shoes and pray for sun.  Oh yea, and bring the camera and my English to French cheat sheets. 

Saturday AM

Being retired is wonderful, we can change our plans.  It?s still raining and Tim thinks he is getting the beginnings of a cold, so we decide to tour with the car.  It?s supposed to be sunny tomorrow, so we think we will enjoy the ferry, the bus tour and walking around Quebec more if the weather?s nice.  Today we will visit the Montmorency falls and drive along the sea way towards St Anne de Beaupre.  ?Encore Plus Tard?  (more later)

Marsha~
 
    I almost forgot, about 30 to 40 miles downstream from Quebec City, on the South side of the river, there is a ferry to a place called Gros Isle (Large Island).  It was the quarantine area for Irish Potato Famine Immigrants, and is now an National Historic site.  Don't forget, the US effectively closed it's borders to Irish Immigrants, so most came to Quebec, then on to other locals in North America, including the US.  We have never taken the time  as it is usually mid trip between home and the grandkids, plus Donna's strong Irish roots are all pre-famine, so didn't come through there.  It is another sunny day sojourne, but I am told well worth it if you have anyone who immigrated through there.
    We leave Ottawa Monday, do you have any plans as to where you will be Monday night?
 
Thanks for the info, Ed.  We may try to see that on the way back through Quebec on the way home.  

We are leaving here on Monday so will be headed toward Martane.  I'm sure hoping we can catch up with you guys when we are Halifax.

Yesterday was great!!!  We decided to not do the ferry and the city tour bus yesterday as it was rainy and cold.  Got out our maps and crossed back into Quebec on the 73 north then took 175-138 east directly through the city.  This is the most beautiful city I have even been in!!!  We should have planned to spend days here to see everything.  We ended up driving right down into the old part then back out onto 440 to go east toward momma22bears suggestion to see Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre'.  What a pretty ride.  We had lunch at our first Tim Hortons.   Had no trouble ordering our lunch; but then I went back to get what I call "donut" nuggets and ran into trouble trying to order 10 of them.  So I held out my fingers and it worked just fine.  Spent time at Montmorency Falls.  Betty, we didn't have trouble with tourist not moving over as you guys did.  With Charlie, everyone moves over... ;)  We walked over the suspended bridge and even though it was damp, chilly and rainy, had an ice cream cone.  

We then drove over to the island of Saint-Laurent-d' Orleans.  What a beautiful island.  I love the architecture of the island, all the bright colored roofs, and bright colored shutters.  I also noticed metal or small sheets of what looks like tin on the sides of houses or on roofs.  We drove the entire way around and found strawberries are in season, so got some.  The little lady who was selling them did not speak english; but we managed.  I pointed, she said $10.00 and I paid, said Au revoir as I left.  Our California strawberries are large and deep red, these are smaller but much more flavorful.  We stumbled onto a small cheese outlet where they made the first cheese ever for North America.  It's a type of white cheese, the attendant cut it into little triangles and grilled the pieces on each side for about 2 minutes....DELICIOUS.  Of course we bought some.  

We're finding that people have been very-very friendly here.  I think the dog makes some difference, people want to pet him so we start talking either in sign language or their broken english and my limited cheat sheet words.  

Today even though it's raining and a bit colder we are doing the ferry-city bus tour!

Oh, one thing we have noticed....very few tourist.  Not sure if it's the weather or the economy.

Marsha~





 
    Marsha, it will only get better as you proceed east.  The lower St Lawrence down to Matane is very pretty, as is all of the Maritimes.  The people and the scenery is beyond compare, but I'm sure you are have a few trying moments with the language, particularly directions.  As for Quebec City, it is unique with Old Montreal a close second, but New Orleans a very distant third.  When you get to St John's Newfoundland, you will see anoter old world type of city, but totally different from Quebec.  Enjoy each day as it comes, as there is so much to "sea" and do.
 
Marsha,
I am glad you are enjoying QC,  have you been around the Chateau yet ?
Seen the original Chateau St Louis, under the Terrace ?
Visited la rue du Tresor ? Where the paintings are.
When you go thru Matane, somewhere on a hill, watch for a huge experimental windmill, not in operation any more. It was paid by the government (Hydro-Quebec) I believe; it produced enough electricity for a City of about 5000 people. But the operating/repair costs were not worth it. My father was one of the contractors who built it back then.

Ed,
Looks like you are doing a great job helping folks around.

Giles.
 
Marsha,

Giles mentioned the windmills in Martane.  We saw very long trucks carrying these long white things and we couldn't figure out what they were - until we saw the place where they make the windmill blades in, I think it was, Martane.  Since then we've seen many more on U.S. highways.  When you see all those windmills at places like the hills near Mojave you don't realize how big they are, but then you see one on a truck and they're gigantic!

Still enjoying riding along with you!

ArdraF
 
Marsha,

I am enjoying hearing your stories about your trip to Canada.  I am so glad you are finding the people friendly because as a Canadian I don't know any who don't like americans and most Quebec - ers are freindly and a lively bunch and as you head east into the maritimes it increases...The French Fries with gravy and curds is pronounced poo-teen and I am sure glad you enjoyed it too and of course we Canadians are addicted to Tim Hortons coffee, I don't know what it is but after having 3 cups of a day when i go to the US I find Starbucks too strong so if you like Starbucks you probably don't like Tim Hortons.

Enjoy your trip and try to spend some time in Halifax, Nova Scotia while east because that town is so exciting, I was amazed with it the first time I was there.  I warned you about the roads in Quebec and especially around Montreal they are awful..but I hope it has been all worth it so far.

Have a great time, au revoir..
 
ArdraF,

This experimental windmill is totally different than anything you have ever seen.
Imagine a steel shaft about 5-6 feet in diameter, standing up off the ground about 60 feet.
Then, 2 pieces of steel, (blades), half moon shaped, going from the top to bottom.
These blades rotate, and adjust according to the wind strenght; there are brakes controlled by computers, so the shaft will not turn more than 6 revolutions per minutes; the shaft  is attached to an underground generator.
The City of Matane was chosen because it is one of the windiest City in Quebec.
This seems ridiculous doesn't it ?
Will try to find a picture somewhere in my albums.

Giles.
 
Thanks Ardra, Giles and WorkingtoRV,

I didn't know if I should continue with the updates.  Linda and Dean are doing such a great recap of Alaska; and Ardra, you and Betty did such a great time of documenting the Maritimes that I was wondering if I was overdoing it.

I know some have had bad experiences here; but I have just fallen in love with Quebec City.  It is just breathtaking.

Giles, we saw an experimental windmill on Manitoulin Island, they are MASSIVE and do appear different than the ones I've seen in Palm Springs, CA.  If you don't have a photo, I do.  My husband Tim is an engineer and  we checked it out.

WorkingtoRV,  we stopped at Tim Horton's yesterday for lunch and we both thought the coffee was delicious.  We don't like Starbucks so were thrilled when Tim Horton's wasn't like it!  :D  You were so right about the roads.  Hopefully they get better heading toward Matane?

Marsha~

 
ArdraF,

Sorry about the confusing posting.
The windmill was an "egg beater shape", and it was in Cap Chat, which is about 10 miles from Matane. Called Eolienne in French.
1987 - Experimental wind power project (?ole) employing a 4-MW vertical-axis wind turbine with a rotor height of 96 m and measuring 64 m in diameter at midpoint. This project was conducted in collaboration with the National Research Council of Canada (NRC). The wind turbine operated commercially from March 1988 to April 1993, producing about 12,000 MWh. It is no longer in operation.
I have a picture, but it is not from my camera; it was found on the net, and I believe these are from the Iles de la Madeleine, a small Island in the St Lawrence Gulf.

Enjoy.  Giles


 

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Giles,

You're absolutely correct.  These are totally different from the ones we saw in Matane.  I don't believe we saw "yours" even though we were in that area.  But then we weren't expecting to find any at all so we weren't looking for them.  ;D

Marsha,

Please do continue with your log.  It's interesting and because we've been there, it brings back great memories.  We all seem to find things our predecessors didn't see or comment on so all the logs are good!

ArdraF
 
Marsha/CA said:
I didn't know if I should continue with the updates.  Linda and Dean are doing such a great recap of Alaska; and Ardra, you and Betty did such a great time of documenting the Maritimes that I was wondering if I was overdoing it.

Don't stop, Marsha, don't stop.  I'm really enjoying your trip log.  Linda and Dean are doing a fantastic job, Ardra and Betty did a fantastic job, but your log is THIS YEAR'S trip.  We've all traveled enough to know how things can change from year to year.; some experiences are disappointing and some are more fascinating, depending on weather conditions, etc.  It's always fun to read abouit the "same trip" seen through new eyes. 

Dare I say it again?  Don't stop!

Margi

 
Marsha,

I'm re-living our all-too-brief visit through your trip report. Like the others, I hope you'll continue.

I know some have had bad experiences here; but I have just fallen in love with Quebec City.

I'm not aware of anyone who had bad experiences in Quebec City; We found it to be a jewel. A few of our photos are included in this album.
 
Keep it up Marsha (and Linda, too). We're getting to travel both sides of the continent without leaving home.

Wendy
Colorado
 
Marsha/CA said:
Thanks Ardra, Giles and WorkingtoRV,

I didn't know if I should continue with the updates.  Linda and Dean are doing such a great recap of Alaska; and Ardra, you and Betty did such a great time of documenting the Maritimes that I was wondering if I was overdoing it.

I have just fallen in love with Quebec City.  It is just breathtaking.

Marsha~

We've been enjoying your travelog.  We haven't been responding because we don't know anything to say, but between the Brewers, Russ, and now you, we are getting more and more interested traveling in Eastern Canada.

Thanks for the kind words.  We, too, are having a lot of rain, and I was concerned that our log was getting dull.

Linda
 
Marc or Ed,

I need to have a package sent to us from home.  Pressure Pro TPMS is replacing our monitoring system and I need a place to have the unit sent to.  Would either of you mind if I had it sent to your home addresses if you will be around?  Tim and I could pick it up at your place or either meet somewhere for dinner?

I was thinking this might work better than try to pick a campground and have it sit there until we arrive possibly getting thrown out, put in a drawer or heaven knows what else.

Marsha~

 
Sunday.....The Ferry across to Old Quebec

We plan to leave Quebec City on Monday, so no matter what the weather we are going to see downtown Old Quebec.  Sunday morning and again it?s cold and rainy; but we are going; stuff extra sweaters, a couple of apples, water and maps into a back pack and off we go.  The ferry ride across the St. Lawrence is only 10-15 minutes.  The ferry is very clean and modern, easy to understand where to go and I have figured out enough French to read the timetables. 

We arrive on the Quebec City side and are awed by the massive old buildings.  We have no idea what is what; but it was an awesome sight even with the overcast skies.  As we exit the ferry and look around we realize the tour bus place which is supposed to be right across from the ferry departure site is no where to be found?.No tour bus and no idea where the heck it is.  I get on the phone and call only to find out we needed reservations.  Oh NO!!!  Whew?.Yes, they have a spot on the next bus, and yes, they will pick us up at the ferry exit.  We have a ? hour or so to kill while waiting for the bus and we begin to explore things close by.  Many of you have suggested we visit the ?Funiculare? (tram) (spelling?) and by chance it is right across from the ferry.  The funiculare is near an area of small shops; but the shops are the homes built in the early-mid 1700s and they are beautiful.  Flowers everywhere...bright colors...stone paved streets and did I say beautiful buildings.

Back to the ferry exit and here comes our bus and??. here comes the sun?what?s that ball in the sky we both remarked.  However, now we are over dressed, Great!  The driver drives us to another site and we board the tour bus with several other people from California.  The bus probably held 22 or so people and at least 6 or so were Californians.  All but two tourist spoke English.  Off we go to see old Quebec.  He tells us of the history, that Quebec City was discovered by Samuel Champlain in 1608, nearly a 150 years before America declares her independence.  We also learned that Quebec had 3 distinct stages of it?s existence.  First it was settled by the French, who then lost the country to the English and then became Canada.  We also learned that at one time the entire province of Quebec was being entertained by the US to become the 14th colony before the Declaration of Independence and that Quebec territory once extended all the way to St. Louis.

The driver also explained that the reason the Province of Quebec speaks French is that it was their way of keeping their religion and heritage, as well as, staying independent from Britain when Britain was trying to over run them.  We also saw the walls of the old fort.  Quebec was built on a hillside with a fortress wall all around it.  That was still standing in Old Quebec.  One of the buildings he took us to was built in 1692 and was the first building in Quebec; it still stands and is a restaurant. 

After the tour, Tim and I walked around, found a restaurant with an outside patio and had a late lunch.  On the menu was ?Sugar Pie? for dessert.  Tim?s grandmother was from Canada and she used to make sugar pie.  I?ve also made it and it?s very basic:  sugar, flour, milk and butter.  So, we had to try it.  It was a bit different; but good and I think they added several ingredients that are not in Tim?s grandmother?s pie, but it was good anyway.

As we walked around the city, we stumbled onto a couple of street performers with their juggling act in the park.  It was great fun to watch and listen to them them talk to everyone in French.  We had a fun time watching them interact and us being part of the audience.  It was interesting to realize that although we didn?t understand much of what was said, the message got across anyway.  People laughed, clapped, encouraged and really had a good time?.so did we.

There were several museums, churches and government building we wanted to explore; but it was getting late.  Poor Charlie had to stay home, so we headed back to the ferry wishing we had more time to wander around this beautiful breathtaking city and hope to come back on our return trip.

Tomorrow we are off to Gaspe'

Marsha~
 
Marsha,

Your descriptions are so clear that you make us feel like we are at home.
So glad you enjoyed old QC.
May the rest of your trip be as enjoyable. Have fun in Gaspe and the other Provinces.
Don't forget to look for the egg shaped windmill in the Cap Chat area.

Giles.
 

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