Silly Winterizing Question

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LK23

LK23

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 14, 2008
Posts
238
Location
Colorado
Yes, I am preparing to winterize my coach before putting it into storage.  I know it's silly, but I live in Colorado and it can freeze at any time.  My instructions for draining the fresh water system are:

a. Open two water line drain valves in near water pump
b. Turn diverter to water tank fill
c. Drain fresh water holding tank in #2 passenger compartment
d. Open hot and cold water valves
e. Return diverter valve to city water position!
f. Close Fresh Water Drain in #2 compartment!

I am questioning the need for step b,c and e since I later blow out the lines with air pressure.  Do you see a reason to turn the diverter to "Water Tank Fill" and open the hot and cold lines?



 
Makes sense to me.

Obviously the procedure was written without knowledge of your "blowing out" intentions.

I assume you do this blowing out procedure between steps d and e so there are no dead ends that would not get "blown" free of water.

Without step b, there could be water trapped between the tank and the pump that would not get blown out if the valve were closed. 
 
No, the next step is to turn on the water pump and open all faucets.  Then empty the water heater and then blow out the lines.
 
LK....the problem you will have is a FROZEN line that goes to your ice maker unless you winterize it, or undo it behind the fridge and BLOW it out.
 
No, I never use the Ice maker and have the lines capped off.  Same with the sink water filter.  Too much hassle when you winterize several times a year.
 
For those interested, I have attached a copy of the Winterizing Checklist I use.  I have modified this list over time.  Still wondering why I need to open faucets when draining the fresh water tank.
 

Attachments

  • Horizon Winterizing.doc
    33.5 KB · Views: 59
One other semi minor thing. When winterizing, using air to blow out the lines. It is a given that you open all the faucets and the shower (0ne at a time) but also don't forget to flush the toilet while the air pressure is on too.  :'(. Don't ask how I know this........ :eek:
 
Ok codgerbill,  we will Not, well - hummm  ???  !!!!  Can't do it!  Got to ask how you know ;D
 
I think it is silly to winterize it several times a year. Unless you live above 10,000 it won't get cold enough in the summertime to freeze anything. Just because the outside air temp goes below freezing in the middle of the night that won't freeze the water. You need to be in a freeze that lasts quite a while before your water will freeze. Especially in a Class A where all the plumbing is in your basement. I was in Denver last October with a Class C. It snowed several times but the water never froze.
 
seilerbird said:
I think it is silly to winterize it several times a year. Unless you live above 10,000 it won't get cold enough in the summertime to freeze anything. Just because the outside air temp goes below freezing in the middle of the night that won't freeze the water. You need to be in a freeze that lasts quite a while before your water will freeze. Especially in a Class A where all the plumbing is in your basement. I was in Denver last October with a Class C. It snowed several times but the water never froze.
Click to expand...

Famous last words.  I have lived here 25 years and have experienced freezing weather at odd times, especially May and June.  I would better be safe than sorry.
 
Rex - I have never winterized and I don't even bother to run extra heat in the plumbing bay unless we are forecast to be in the mid-high 20s.  I do keep the bay insulated in the winter, though.  I think a significant factor is how long you are below freezing - just a few hours I have discovered is no big deal.

If you store your Horizon and don't have electric available, you have peace of mind with winterizing.
 
John, I have experienced freeze damage in the past.  I have had to replace two water pumps and the toilet rinse handle.  I forgot to blow out the toilet rinse line and the water pumps were due to water settling in the pump after blow out.  Shur-Flow has since re-designed the pumps and it appears to have corrected the freeze problem.
 
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