Won't do it again, expensive lesson!!!

Took the coach out of storage for the first time this year, prep trip for this weeks fishing trip to Canada.  Good thing we did. I did not winterize properly, and I had some leaks and needed two new faucets.  One in the shower inside and the other by the outside shower.  We were at our Park model in Plymouth Rock campground in Plymouth WI,  I filled up the water tank and turned on the pump and we had leaks!!!  As we went to go to Fleet Farm, a service truck from Pauls moble rv service was coming in,  flagged him down and it only was a hundred dollar repair.  Could have been much worse.  I think I will have someone else winterise it next year, even though it spends most of it's life in a new somewhat heated Pole barn with cement floors.  only the other side is heated, thought it would keep the whole thing above freezing, I was wrong about that.  So lesson learned, I won't be cheap next season.  On the plus side everything else was working great.  If your are from or near the area, and need help with your rv, I can highly recommend these guys.  Fair price good service, nice guys.

Glad to hear that it wasn't too costly for you.

I am not an expert by any means on this stuff, but the last two years I have winterized my own unit and have tried two different methods. The first year, I turned off the valve to the heater, pulled the drain (node), then using the unit's water pump, pumped about 3 gallons of anti-freeze through the entire system, opening all the faucets one at a time until each had a nice stream of pink liquid. I then drained the water tank, grey and black tanks but on the black tank I put about 4-5 gallons of clean water back in along with a pottie tab and a full gallon of antifreeze. I then poured additional antifreeze in each of the sinks, the shower and the toilet (understand this keeps the toilet seal from drying out). I also pulled and drained the water filter and any low-drain points in the system. This method handled single digits without any problems.

Last year, I went a different route. Again, I bypassed the heater and drained it. Then I made me a combination connector so that I could attach my air compressor to the water line at a point behind the pump. And this part is very important, I made sure via an air gauge that I had no more that 15 pounds of air pressure at the connection point. I was afraid that any more than that might cause a connection to separate. I then went to each faucet and opened them allowing any water in the lines to be evacuated. Again, finished up by draining the tanks and putting anti-freeze in the sink drains. This method was a lot quicker and used a lot less anti-freeze too, and of course with zip for water there's not a chance of anything freezing.

You can use the air method by just connecting to the shore water connection. CW sells a little plug with a tire valve in it for this purpose. I have blown my lines out every year for the past 7 years with no problems except the first year when I forgot about the flush valve on the toilet and it froze up and cracked.

Woody