Survey of CRT TV to LCD replacements

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Finished product...  (finished a while ago, just got around to uploading)
 

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John
I put the info on the blog a few days ago, now I will post all the pictures  tonight on your post.

I think it came out nice, and secure. 

While the bride watches the bachelor tonight I'll repost the job.

Jim.

Just finished the last two MCD shades in the MH. Yesterday. Been busy.
 
I started out buying a Samsung 32in TV, 29.1 in wide. The opening in cabinet is 28 in wide. 1/2 in each side. the amount the taper is on the rear of the Samsung. It fit nice and snug in the opening, the TV overlaps the frame by 1/2 in each side.

The most important piece of equipment is the SANUS SAN25BB mounting bracket. Purchased it at Target. $70.00 I think. the TV on sale at COSTCO $229.00 with the $30.00 rebate.

The reason I say the SAN25BB is important is because there are release straps on the bracket so you an release the tv from the bracket. no need to get your hand behind the tv.

After you drop down the plastic shroud, the old tv comes out pretty easy after loosing up the hold down bolts.  There was a problem with the cross member, that goes across the top of the old tv.  I borrowed a sawsall to cut it in half.  Could not remove it otherwise. A hacksaw will also work, but love the power tools. 

Bought a 1x2 to make the side bracket <screwed it into the side of the metal cabinet with sell drilling metal screws, and mounted a 1x6 between the 1x2's 

The plate was screwed on the 1x6, and measured so the tv would be as low as possible on the frame.

I think the pictures will show that.  the distance between the mounting plate and the rear of the tv is important..  this was done on the rear bed with the frame removed and with the tv sitting on the frame.  (no pictures)  measured the distance with the tv on the frame. This is what the finished product will look like.

The tv is pretty solid in the bracket, but the tiny movement is taken care of by two wire ties attached to the back frame and the clip that is screwed onto the frame. When you pull the wire tie taught, it is tight!!!! No movement.

If you have to get behind the tv, all you have to do is cut the wire ties, and pull down the straps, and lift the tv off the bracket.

The finished trim was a piece of wood on the top, but could not match the grain or color. I used a piece of flooring (wood)  and put foam on the wood and bought fabric to match the fabric in the MH and as you see the finished product. Held in place by Velcro. 

The bottom of the frame is nothing but black pipe insulation.. There is a small gap, and it stops the light from the back of the cabinet opening from showing through.

I attached a HDMI to the back of the tv for future use. My Direct TV is not HD, and a interesting note, my memorex DVD had a RGB and S video cable.  The Memorex DVD is a programmable DVD, and had to change the type of video cable to RGB from S Video. there was no color otherwise. Samsung people told me what to do. go figure.

Took me two days to remove the old tv and put in the new tv.  I had help of course, and now I know how to fix the rear tv with the gap on top.  plywood and make a cushion.  with the fabric that matches the coach. 

1. Frame removed
2. Frame removed
3. the tools
4. metal frame
5. Frame
6. the beast removed
7. wires wires  everywhere
8. the frame 1x2 and the 1x6 with bracket mounted.
9.the other side
10. wire tie clip screwed onto the frame
11. pipe insulation
12.bottom of cabinet.
 

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these are the last two or three pictures.

1.top of frame with fabric
2.another shot of wire tie clip
3. finished product
4. finished product
5. side view tight in cabinet.

Hope this is not too large of a file John.

Jim
 

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For future ref. if the cabinet (such as our's ) is already angled for the tv, all you have to do is build the new frame inside the metal cabinet. It will follow the original angle.

Just make sure the side 1x2 or what ever you use, conforms to the angle. (the bottom of the wood is touching the bottom of the cabinet).  This will give you the original angle.
 
Has anyone came across a TV mounting bracket that will manually move the TV vertically (up and Down)? Have a special project going on.

Scott  :)
 
Scott-0168 said:
Has anyone came across a TV mounting bracket that will manually move the TV vertically (up and Down)? Have a special project going on.
There are motorized lifts that will raise a TV from a cabinet but not sure I've ever seen a manual version.
 
Hi all. I am going to replace the front overhead and bedroom tvs and add a tv outside in my 2007 Winnebago Journey. I am going to use 12 volt Jensen Tvs. Need to conserve batteries when boondocking. The front tv should be ok for digital connections, sat, cable, off air. What is the best and easiest way to get the appropriate signals to the 2 other tvs, keeping in mind the horror of having to pull new wire!!! Has anyone used an HDMI cat 5e 4x4 distribution box. Any recommendations on suppliers and ways to wire??
Thanks Les
 
You can use existing coax to feed the other TV's the signal from sat and/or antenna.  For DVD, Blu-Ray, etc. the easiest thing will be to just have separate players for each TV. 
 
VA6LM said:
..What is the best and easiest way to get the appropriate signals to the 2 other tvs, keeping in mind the horror of having to pull new wire!!! Has anyone used an HDMI cat 5e 4x4 distribution box. Any recommendations on suppliers and ways to wire??
Thanks Les

Hi and welcome Les.  Here's a thread that might be of some value.  I don't think there is any easy way to get coax or Cat5 from one end to the other.
 
I replaced my TV a little differently.  I decided to locate the HDTV in the top cabinet opening, so I relocated the top doors down to the middle cabinet.  We found we liked the viewing angle much better having to look up slightly.  In the upper cabinet I made a plywood door, attached at the top with a piano hinge, mounted the HDTV to the face of the plywood, used gas struts to hold the TV upright so I could access all the new storage space behind.  Mounting HDTV on the face of the cabinet allowed me to install a larger TV(37") than would fit within the cabinet opening.
 

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Just went thru this whole thread, very interesting. We have a 2000 Suncruiser 35U and would like to replace the old monster GE. However, I would like to be able to drop TV when watching so that we are not looking up. Is there any reason that a swivel mount cannot be rotated 90 degrees so it goes up and down as opposed to side to side/ in and out?
When traveling, it would be up in position of existing TV, when watching down closer to to of dash.
 
Your TV is an over the dash version?  The new LED flat panels are very lightweight but you might have to custom engineer a mount.  If you could post some pictures of the area, maybe we can visualize your situation.
 
Is there any reason that a swivel mount cannot be rotated 90 degrees so it goes up and down as opposed to side to side/ in and out?

Yes!! The mount, in most cases, cannot hold the weight in that position. I tried this exact scenario in my trailer and the swivels simply could not hack it with the replacement 26" TV. It is not that heavy but...... I could not tighten the swivel joints enough to do any good and the TV  self-pivoted down towards the floor too much as well.
 
Alfa38User said:
Yes!! The mount, in most cases, cannot hold the weight in that position. I tried this exact scenario in my trailer and the swivels simply could not hack it with the replacement 26" TV. It is not that heavy but...... I could not tighten the swivel joints enough to do any good and the TV  self-pivoted down towards the floor too much as well.


Sorry, meant to respond to John's request for pix.


Here's a picture

 

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