Hi, the sewage valve on my 2001 model Adventurer was leaking.
(BTW, I'm so glad I re-worked the waste outlet pipe OUTSIDE the compartment. This is something I reccommend (as a physician), ie to keep the compartment for water only, and take the sewage pipe through the floor to reduce the chance of contamination. Secondly, when I got the vehicle second hand, it had a direct connection between the water inlet and the sewage tank flushing line, which is also a big NO NO.)
So I set out to replace the valve myself. Tools needed--RoboGrips or vice clamps for the water connections, Phillips screwdriver, two 7/16 wrenches, Allen keys/hex bits, plumbers tape for brass water connections.
I went online and easily found a .pdf file with all the parts and part numbers for my year and model. Even then, you have to be careful, because some parts go from Jan 00 to Oct 00 for instance. Mine is supposedly an 01, and has an 01 handbook, but it was made in August 00. You don't need to do this yourself because the parts place will find the number for you. All you really need when you order parts are the three coach ID numbers, VIN, Serial, and month of manufacture, all of which are on the label on the driver's door. The 3" sewage valve and the greywater valve are the same size and part number. My prior RVs had smaller pipe for the greywater, but the Adventurer series uses the same size. The parts place below can get the numbers easily, but they insist there is a two inch valve somewhere on my RV, which there isn't. The part comes with some flanged pipe which is unnecessary for a simple replacement, but the rubber seals are on the pipe side so be sure and save them.
An excellent place for parts is "Winnebago Parts" which is not owned by Winnebago at all, but is close to the factory. Good prices too.
I washed out the sewage tank with water and flushed it well, then left the valve open to drain with the jacks set to tilt the RV appropriately. Nothing came down during the repair. You can tilt it the opposite way before opening everything, tho I didn't.
MARK THE SEWAGE HANDLE, so you know which valve is which.
The white panel at the front of the locker comes off with six screws, two white ones visible at the top inside, and four black ones which come through from the outside of the locker. There is a bolt with a nut on the back beside the "tank fill/fresh water" lever, so you have to reach behind.
Unhook all the water lines at the back of the panel. The freshwater taps do not need disassembled, just the lines at the back. You don't need to mark these lines, they all fit right back into the panel at reassembly.
The Sewage tank is the one towards the REAR, the graywater tank is towards the front.
The Valve itself has four bolts (note that the bolts are two different lengths, shorter ones at the end). Also take out four Phillips screws, two in the middle of the valve, and two where the cable comes in. Now force the two ends of the sewage pipe apart, the valve 'clamshells' will come apart, and the valve will slip out.
Reassembly If you are using the old cable, detach it with an Allen key, (hex bit), re-install it in the new valve. IMPORTANT--make sure to leave a half inch of play at the handle end, ie when the valve is fully closed there should be half an inch of spare cable at the handle. Tighten the two cable clamp screws at the end of the valve, but leave the other two screws undone or you won't be able to get the valve in.
The new valve comes with two bits of connecting pipe. Before you discard those, take off the two new rubber seals, and install them on the old pipes. Now introduce the new valve, with the 'clamshells' apart, so that the lugs on the clamshells are outside the flanges on the old pipes. Make sure you don't dislodge the rubber seals as you do this. Now get the bolts in. Careful not to overtorque the bolts, just nice and tight. Now tighten up the two remaining screws on the valve and you are done.
The remainder is the reverse of the disassembly. I used plumber's tape on the brass connection.
Most of this procedure for the first-timer is getting the panel and it's multiple water connections undone. Time, two to three hours, but a pro would do it in one.
Good Luck
Rankjo
(BTW, I'm so glad I re-worked the waste outlet pipe OUTSIDE the compartment. This is something I reccommend (as a physician), ie to keep the compartment for water only, and take the sewage pipe through the floor to reduce the chance of contamination. Secondly, when I got the vehicle second hand, it had a direct connection between the water inlet and the sewage tank flushing line, which is also a big NO NO.)
So I set out to replace the valve myself. Tools needed--RoboGrips or vice clamps for the water connections, Phillips screwdriver, two 7/16 wrenches, Allen keys/hex bits, plumbers tape for brass water connections.
I went online and easily found a .pdf file with all the parts and part numbers for my year and model. Even then, you have to be careful, because some parts go from Jan 00 to Oct 00 for instance. Mine is supposedly an 01, and has an 01 handbook, but it was made in August 00. You don't need to do this yourself because the parts place will find the number for you. All you really need when you order parts are the three coach ID numbers, VIN, Serial, and month of manufacture, all of which are on the label on the driver's door. The 3" sewage valve and the greywater valve are the same size and part number. My prior RVs had smaller pipe for the greywater, but the Adventurer series uses the same size. The parts place below can get the numbers easily, but they insist there is a two inch valve somewhere on my RV, which there isn't. The part comes with some flanged pipe which is unnecessary for a simple replacement, but the rubber seals are on the pipe side so be sure and save them.
An excellent place for parts is "Winnebago Parts" which is not owned by Winnebago at all, but is close to the factory. Good prices too.
I washed out the sewage tank with water and flushed it well, then left the valve open to drain with the jacks set to tilt the RV appropriately. Nothing came down during the repair. You can tilt it the opposite way before opening everything, tho I didn't.
MARK THE SEWAGE HANDLE, so you know which valve is which.
The white panel at the front of the locker comes off with six screws, two white ones visible at the top inside, and four black ones which come through from the outside of the locker. There is a bolt with a nut on the back beside the "tank fill/fresh water" lever, so you have to reach behind.
Unhook all the water lines at the back of the panel. The freshwater taps do not need disassembled, just the lines at the back. You don't need to mark these lines, they all fit right back into the panel at reassembly.
The Sewage tank is the one towards the REAR, the graywater tank is towards the front.
The Valve itself has four bolts (note that the bolts are two different lengths, shorter ones at the end). Also take out four Phillips screws, two in the middle of the valve, and two where the cable comes in. Now force the two ends of the sewage pipe apart, the valve 'clamshells' will come apart, and the valve will slip out.
Reassembly If you are using the old cable, detach it with an Allen key, (hex bit), re-install it in the new valve. IMPORTANT--make sure to leave a half inch of play at the handle end, ie when the valve is fully closed there should be half an inch of spare cable at the handle. Tighten the two cable clamp screws at the end of the valve, but leave the other two screws undone or you won't be able to get the valve in.
The new valve comes with two bits of connecting pipe. Before you discard those, take off the two new rubber seals, and install them on the old pipes. Now introduce the new valve, with the 'clamshells' apart, so that the lugs on the clamshells are outside the flanges on the old pipes. Make sure you don't dislodge the rubber seals as you do this. Now get the bolts in. Careful not to overtorque the bolts, just nice and tight. Now tighten up the two remaining screws on the valve and you are done.
The remainder is the reverse of the disassembly. I used plumber's tape on the brass connection.
Most of this procedure for the first-timer is getting the panel and it's multiple water connections undone. Time, two to three hours, but a pro would do it in one.
Good Luck
Rankjo
