2004 Horizon LED Clearance light conversion

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BucknJeff

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Joined
Mar 18, 2009
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11
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Chicago
After prepping the coach for a long trip (headed to CA from MI in a few days) I noted that a front center cluster clearance light was out. On removing it, I discovered that it's a sealed unit, and does not have a replaceable bulb.

After much research, I located the original manufacturer's specs (thanks to the fine people at the Winnebago Service area parts counter) and learned that they are "Standard" 2.5 inch sealed truck marker/clearance light.

Armed with this, I found an ebay seller with a model priced reasonably (I thought $3.95 per unit was reasonable) and ordered them. Much to my surprise, they arrived right on time and were much nicer than I thought. They installed easily and look great.

I'm sure I'll get much better mileage now with all of that heavy current draw from the old incandescent lights gone. I'm planning on 1 mpg better!

I also replaced the headlight assemblies a while ago and upgraded them to HID. I'll post some pictures just as soon as I locate a 5 year old that can show me how.

 
Thanks for the info, I have the 2005 and hate the headlights would like to know the details on your replacement and how much of a difference the HID's made.

Thanks
Dave
 
The Headlights are for a 2001-2004 (or maybe even later) Nissan Frontier. You can shop the web and find all sorts of variations.

We bought our "Projector" lights on ebay and added the HID kit ourselves. The light is slightly better, but I was hoping it would be alot better. I have to tweak the bulb holder and get the HID bulb a little farther into the projector lens.  I choose the 4300k, the lowest "color temperature" HID I could find. The higher the color number, the bluer the light, and the less you can see with it.

The high beams are moderately better, and I improved that with SilverStar bulbs.

I think if I had it to do over, I'd just change the lights and skip the HID. The projectors work so much better on their own.

Hope this helps.
 
It was my understanding that our stock headlights are Nissan.  So, I am not sure what you changed.  What are "projector lights?"
 
LK23 said:
It was my understanding that our stock headlights are Nissan.  So, I am not sure what you changed.  What are "projector lights?"
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Maybe I should have worded my prior response better. I was referring to the make and model of vehicle that uses the same headlight assemblies as the 2004 Horizon.  Projector lights are a style of headlight that use a lens not unlike a camera, with the bulb and refractor located behind it, out of sight. With this style of headlight, all you see is the end of the lens, generally 2 - 3 inches in diameter. Sometimes these projector headlights are in a housing with other lights as in our case, or they are individual as in the Winnebago Tour.  The original headlights on our 2004 Horizon were not the projector type, just the standard bulb and reflector.

Our modification includes 2 entire new headlight assemblies, which were an aftermarket product meant to give a different look and supposedly better light with the projector low beams. I suppose it is a little better, but not overwhelmingly so. Our 2009 Honda CRV has superb headlights, and they're just the old bulb and reflector style.

The good news is that we look "cool" to all of those kids in those little cars with blue headlights and loud radios and exhausts. 

 
BucknJeff said:
The good news is that we look "cool" to all of those kids in those little cars with blue headlights and loud radios and exhausts. 
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You need some nice blue lights on the chassis - that would really look cool at night  :D :D
 
BucknJeff said:
After much research, I located the original manufacturer's specs (thanks to the fine people at the Winnebago Service area parts counter) and learned that they are "Standard" 2.5 inch sealed truck marker/clearance light.
Click to expand...

Sure, Couldn't take my word for it, just had to call Winnie...

:p
 
John,

There were actually 2 sizes (2" and 2.5") and 2 different "twist-lock" mounting systems, plus I wasn't at the coach when I needed to order them.

The people on Ebay I ordered from were wonderful to deal with. "Saving Grace Supply" in Oregon (State). Small Mom and Pop, and very helpful.

Got any pictures of the CRD all decked out yet? I bet our fearless Moderator wouldn't mind seeing them.

 
BucknJeff said:
Got any pictures of the CRD all decked out yet? I bet our fearless Moderator wouldn't mind seeing them.
Click to expand...

Especially of the cuts, bruises, and skinned knuckles if John does the baseplate, brake system and light hookups himself  :D
 
Yeah Yeah...

I have decided to go a little different route with the baseplate...  Going with an ARB bumper and winch combo, and using the Blue Ox tabs drilled right to the face of the bumper.  Talked to a few that have done it this way, and they have been very happy with it.  I get the bumper installed at a local 4 wheel drive shop Wednesday. 

As far as the wiring, I plan on doing that myself.  I got the Blue Ox diodes cheap on ebay, and I want to attempt to wire it so all my clearance lights work on the jeep and the turn sigs remain independent, since I don't want to mess with a converter box and my coach is a 4 wire system (yellow turns).  I am hoping I can isolate the wiring at each of the light locations without running too many wires...  I might end up just running the rears, but that is too easy for me!  :p
I'll post a pic when I get it near complete...

John
 
Continuing our off topic tangent  :D ...

I would love to have a winch on the front of the Jeep and thought about kludging something together that uses the Roadmaster base plate.  We have done quite a bit of 4-wheeling in ours and found it to be quite trail capable.  Tires make a difference - we use Goodyear All Terrain T/As - they are a tough tire (a little noisy on pavement though) and gives me peace of mind when towing the Jeep.
 
To continue our off topic chat...

Bumper is on, pics are on the site (www.johnandderek.com).  I still need to wire in the diodes, and will be putting 2 6 inch lights under the bar yet.  Future mods will be a 2 inch lift and bigger tires.  It has Bridgestone A/T's on it now, which are in decent shape, but I'd like to go a little bigger.  The ARB is simply Massive, and there is no question that my plan of mounting the Blue Ox tabs on it was the right way to go for me.  It wasn't the cheapest option, but I think the best.  Unfortunately, most all Liberty Accessories all bolt to the same mounting points, so it is either Base Plate, or Bumper, or Bull Bar, or whatever, but just one.  This was able to capture all my wants in one swoop. 

John
 
Slightly back on topic, just last night I attached 2 amber side marker fixtures to the underside of my Kwikee step. Lots more light, more spread-out, and less power too.. :)
 
JLModer2 said:
Bumper is on, pics are on the site
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Wow - that is a massive looking bumper.  Nice, very nice (now I want need one!)


SCVJeff said:
Slightly back on topic, just last night I attached 2 amber side marker fixtures to the underside of my Kwikee step. Lots more light, more spread-out, and less power too.. :)
Click to expand...

Jeff - I have never noticed my step light come on - is it on the same circuit as the porch light?
 
No. When the step is out and door open, it's on. The lamp is part of the Kwikee step. A $20 project to replace a $2 incandescent, but look how green I am.. :)
 
John,

The step light switch (the red one on the passenger side main switch panel) has to be on for the amber light under the steps to come on.

In related news, I made it to Reno, with my lovely smart sensor 5.7 failing AGAIN. Shurflo is sending parts, meanwhile there are NO new ones available anywhere except the bay area. Ugh. Headed to Sacramento today and Napa/Sonoma this weekend for the following week to celebrate our Anniversary.

Amazingly, I was able to keep the interior of the coach at 75 most of the day yesterday with the dash air (which only works so-so) and the roof air while it was 111 outside and WINDY (head wind, of course). It amazed me how hot the air was coming out of the ceiling ducts when I parked and fired up the basement air. I think a big part of the problem with the lousy a/c is that the ceiling and rear cap are so poorly insulated they pick up tons of heat. It took a good 15 minutes to get it to blow cool air all the way to the front. (It was cool in the back ducts almost right away). I love my roof air, and it only draws 15 amps at worst (13 when it's not 111 out!)



 
Re the step light. I think I can add a bit of important info...

Yes, when the steps are powered up and the door is open, the light will illuminate.

Now, when the door is open and the steps are powered off, the light will go out. This may be important if one has the habit of leaving the door open, while parked and leaving the steps powered up. This will obviously consume battery power.

  So in order to reduce parasitic current flow, it would be best to keep the steps out and turned off, at least during daylight hours.

  Just a hint.

carson FL



 
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