Yet another Ref. question

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Darin

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Jul 1, 2009
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92
When running on 110, either generator or plugged in. How does it run?  Will it work without propane? Will it work with no flame if it's plugged in?  If so, how does it heat the ammonia? Does it use a regular house fridge cooling system.  Does it have 2 separate cooling systems?  I have a 1990 Dometic, either a MR2612 or RM2812.  Manual is for both, but I don't know which is in the RV. 
 
Darin said:
When running on 110, either generator or plugged in. How does it run?  Will it work without propane? Will it work with no flame if it's plugged in?  If so, how does it heat the ammonia? Does it use a regular house fridge cooling system.  Does it have 2 separate cooling systems?  I have a 1990 Dometic, either a MR2612 or RM2812.  Manual is for both, but I don't know which is in the RV.

There should be a label either on the door jam or on the door that will list the model.

When the refer is running on 110 (from whatever source) the ammonia is being heated by an electric heating element. When it is running on propane the ammonia is heated by the propane flame. No matter which fuel source is being used the refer still needs 12vdc to operate. The 12vdc is needed to run the control board.
 
There are several different types and models of Refrighrators used in RV's the most common is an Absorption Cooling Uint and works on what I call teh Ammonia cycle.  This type can run on any heat source including but not limited to: Propane, 120vac and 12vdc (in some cases)

Most common is the propane/120vac (But the comments apply to 12vdc power too)

Now, in this category they come in two flavors  Automatic and manual

An automatic "fridge" senses the 120vac, if it's present then it turns off the flame, and turns on an electric heater element.  Since a heat source, to the cooling unit, is a heat source, it works.

The manual type you have to physically turn a switch or control

IN researching them I recently found there are two kinds of absorption cooling units, one uses a constant heat source (If on propane the flame burns till it is cold enough) the other uses a pulsating heat source (The flame cycles on and off during the cooling cycle,, I do not know if a unit of this type has EVER been bolted into an RV)

But for your question that does not matter.. All that matters is that be it a Propane flame, or an electric heat element, a heat source is a heat source

 
I have the RV plugged in, and figured out how to turn the propane on.  The freezer is quite cold after 10 hours. The fridge is doing nothing at all.  I know about having to be level.  It's close. The front of the 34'er is maybe less than a foot lower than the back. Probably more like 6".  I'm assuming that if it was too off level, the freezer wouldn't work.  I read on another thread that it could take a day or 2 for the fridge to get cold.  I wonder if throwing a block of ice in there would help speed the process up.  And, maybe it would help keep it col on our trip. 
 
Also, looking through the papers that came with the RV, I see that though the RV is a '90, the fridge was replace in '99. 
 
I almost found out the hard way that the fridge really needs to be level to work properly. Even when my freezer got somewhat cold (running off level) the fridge did not get cold at all. When I realized my mistake and leveled the RV I was lucky enough to save the fridge and its worked properly ever since. It did take a very long time for the fridge compartment to finally get cold... about two days.

Don't run that reefer off level. You can kill it easier than you think and it's a very expensive mistake.
 
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