NORCOLD REFIG - RUNNING ON LP ONLY??

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bchristo

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Dec 20, 2007
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On my last trip, my norcold refrig would only run on gas. I think I checked all fuses?? I checked and the outlet behind panel on side of RV - has juice to it (This is where I a assuming the refrig is pluged into). Does anyone know what else to check...Like is there a fuse in the cord to the back of the frig or something... Right now if I am pulged into 30 amp service or I am running the generator, everytime I switch the mode to AC it beeps and flashs "no ac".  Thanks in advance for the insight.   
 
I think there is a fuse on the control board on the back of the refer.

Give us the model number of your refer and maybe someone has a schematic for it.
 
I am at work but will send in model # in case that helps.....I checked motor fuses (up front on this Diesel pusher) nothing popped out. I checked GFI at foot of bed all switches ok. I checked what I am assuming is 12 v fuses (Box under frig goes to, frig, house lihts and such) nothing popped out - I also pushed all just in case to reset. What' s odd is there is diffinitely juice to the outlet where it appears the refrig is pluged into (I removed panel on side of Winnie Journey getting access to the back and lower of frig) and there is a black cord plugged into an outlet. I tested with a corded light - works.  ??
 
Don't know if this will help you or not but on a Dometic brand fridge there is a black box mounted vertically on the lower left on the back of the fridge as seen through the outside removable plastic door. It contains a circuit board and a number of small glass fuses, one (or perhaps  more) is for AC. Using a multimeter, check for voltage on either side of these fuses as a blown one may not be obvious.

If you spot a similar box on yours, open it and you may find  your answer, a blown (5 amp) fuse.

As an alternative, you can trace the individual wires coming out of the plugged-in cord and see where they lead, (usually to a terminal strip back there).


HTH
 
This may or may not apply but I had a problem getting my Norcold to run on ac the night before our first trip. Checked everything electrical. Everything fine. In NC this time of year it's very humid. I switched from "normal" operation to "high" humidity and bingo, on came the ac. Got lucky because there was nothing in the book that said the ac wouldn't work without being on high humidity. And maybe that had nothing to do with it at all but it worked. Driving home, the LP came on automatically after we disconnected from the ac so food nice and cold when we arrived. I've had rv's before but this was a new one on me.l
 
The fuse that the Alaskan mentioned is on the control board, its fuse F-3 , on diagram drawing, near where power cord plugs to the board and protects the heating elements from a surge.
The following link will show the 110 elements of which there are two.
                         Look at art picture art01340
http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/nor_techdata/Opmanuals/owners_1200_621823d.pdf
The elements are the only part of your refrigerators operation for 110 part of it, as with most Rv refrigerators.
Read the fuse with a meter if you read voltage the fuse is blown, if you do not read voltage the fuse is good.
If the fuse is good take it out and clean fuse mounting with some contact spray, maybe some corrosion or dirt because of humidity.
Your refridge is working, only the 110 feed for elements is what is not.
 
i need to get a meter. I took off the box and looked for obvious only. I did not get the box all the way off - i only thought the glass tube fuse was the only one at first - It is OK. I opened frig changed mode to AC and the frig light came on so it is getting some electricity.... as mentioned It must be an element prob. I will get a meter, take box off completely and check - Thanks
 
I had the same problem on a norcold 1200, they said it was a 5a fuse in the board accessed outside the rv throught the refrig access panel.  I took off the cover for the panel and the 5a fuse was good, aarrgghh.  I had a problem that i couldn't get the cover for the panel all the way off because the propane line was in the way.  I took a mirror and looked behind the cover and there was another 5a fuse that I couldn't see.  It was blown!!  replaced it and all was ok, been running on AC power fine ever since.  Steve
 
Alfa38User said:
Don't know if this will help you or not but on a Dometic brand fridge there is a black box mounted vertically on the lower left on the back of the fridge as seen through the outside removable plastic door. It contains a circuit board and a number of small glass fuses, one (or perhaps  more) is for AC. Using a multimeter, check for voltage on either side of these fuses as a blown one may not be obvious.

If you spot a similar box on yours, open it and you may find  your answer, a blown (5 amp) fuse.

As an alternative, you can trace the individual wires coming out of the plugged-in cord and see where they lead, (usually to a terminal strip back there).


HTH
Click to expand...

Ours would only run on gas.  We replaced the circuit board (black box) and now it works fine.
 
Our fridge suffered the same problem and I ended up replacing the control board.  It was a piece of cake to do and the part coast just over $100.  Don't be afraid to replace it - they are notoriously prone to dying after about 7 or 8 years.

The "High Humidity" switch turns on a heat strip that warms the metal between the door panels and prevents sweating.  If your "HH" switch causes the fridge to mysteriously work, and the switch tests OK with a meter, then likely that your control board is toast.

Most fridges are designed to operate on gas (if available) if the AC dies so you don't lose your food.

But, of course, check the fuses before assuming the board is fried.  Lot's cheaper to replace a fuse or two!

 
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