First impressions of the Canon 450D (XSi)

[Tom]

As reported in another discussion, I'm the new owner of a Canon 450D (Rebel XSi) DSLR. I've been a point-and-shoot picture taker for many years, although prior to the days of digital cameras I owned several SLR cameras (still have them).

When I opened the box, I was surprised how small and light the XSi is. Admittedly, it's larger and heavier than my Pansonic FZ7, but not as large and heavy as I'd expected. It fits quite comfortably in the hand, although some online reviews suggest otherwise.

Setup was a breeze - pop in the battery and the 4GB SD card, attach one of the lenses, a few seconds with the setup screen, and that was it.

The 3" LCD, used primarily for camera settings, is quite something; No more squinting to see small icons or text. The LCD can be switched off at the click on a button, or it turns off automatically when your eye comes close to the eyepiece.

The main dial has a number of options, including standard SLR functions and a number of preset functions that are similar to the "SCN" aka Scene functions on the FZ7, but they don't require a separate menu; They're all on the dial. So far, I haven't ventured beyond the "Full" aka fully automatic dial setting. A few test photos confirmed what I already knew - I need more study and practice.

Position of the buttons is something else I need to familiarize myself with.

Lens swapping is a breeze with Canon's bayonet fittings.

I have a lot to learn about this camera, and hope I have the patience to learn before attempting any serious photography.

[seilerbird]

It is a good idea for beginners to start in the Auto mode, however I would suggest you switch to the P mode ASAP. The P mode is identical to Auto with a few important differences. The most important one is that you can pop up the flash and use it anytime you want. In Auto the flash will only fire when the camera thinks it is necessary and that ruins a lot of pictures. Typically I see people taking pictures of someone (DW for example) and the lighting in the background overwhelms the meter and the lighting on the subject is not all that great. A flash would have saved the shot. Almost every time you take a photo that has a subject (DW, DH, dog, flower, bird, whatever) within 12 feet of the camera, the image will look better if you use a flash. If you are out in bright sunshine and you don't need a flash it won't hurt to have it on. I watch people all day long taking photos of their loved one on the rim of the canyon without a flash when one would really help the image. If I say to them "You really should turn on the flash. " about 90% of the time they reply with "I don't know how to turn on the flash." If you are shooting in P mode all you have to do is push the flash button, which is located just below the flash on the left hand side of the body as viewed from the back. It has a little lightning bolt marking it.

Don't forget to turn the camera off before changing lenses, batteries or memory cards.

[Tom]

Ah, thanks for the tip Tom. P mode it is from now on. My Panasonic FZ7 has a P mode, but not a full auto mode, so I didn't understand the difference.

[maddog348]

Thanks.  Have had my XTi  for quite a while now - but never used the P mode.  One of the things they did not teach us in 'class' at shop where I bought the camera. Will try it out 1st chance I get.  K

[Tom]

Almost every time you take a photo that has a subject (DW, DH, dog, flower, bird, whatever) within 12 feet of the camera, the image will look better if you use a flash.

Just for clarification, is this what I previously understood to be "fill in flash"?

If you are shooting in P mode all you have to do is push the flash button, which is located just below the flash on the left hand side of the body as viewed from the back.

Doesn't seem like an intuitive position for me; I keep wanting to "look" for it. But, after I've used it a number of times, I'm sure it will become second nature.

[Mc2guy]

Tom,

Congrats on the purchase. I have had an XSi for about a year now and absolutely love it.  It is also my first DSLR and I still haven't learned how to use it that well.  Fortunately the standard factory setting options have allowed a novice like me to still capture some great photos with my limited skills.  The battery life is fantastic and the preview feature for scene shots and portraits is great...just don't try and shoot action with that feature as it take about a second for the mirror to get out of the way and take the shot.

I got mine before they started packaging the two lenses in with the bundle so I only have the 18-55mm.  I am looking for a decent macro lens for close in shots and a decent 300mm telezoom.  Let me know if you like the ones that came with the bundled package.

Here's one from this past weekend...one of my boys at our favorite camping spot.

[Bob Buchanan]

Just for clarification, is this what I previously understood to be "fill in flash"?

Doesn't seem like an intuitive position for me; I keep wanting to "look" for it. But, after I've used it a number of times, I'm sure it will become second nature.

Yes, if you have enough ambient light already, you may not need the flash. You will want to use it for "fill" of the shadowed areas. A good example is when shooting people. If the sun is causing dark shadows on part of the face, the flash can fill (lighten) those areas to match the exposure of the rest of the face.

High contrast is the reason fill is needed. If in bright sun shooting something that is partially in the shadowed area, the flash will fill those shadows with light to cause less contrast with the brighter areas.

P position only does aperture and shutter speed automatically. You set everything else as needed -- including flash. In full auto mode, the flash will pop up automatically when needed.

So you would go to P or Full Auto according to what you want to achieve in the shot. If in full auto, and you don't want flash, and the light is not enough for what the sensor needs -- that flash "will" pop up and fire.

[Tom]

Thanks Christian. I'm not sure if or how I'd know if the kit lenses (18-55mm and 55-250mm) are any good. The review that Tom pointed me to says that the excellent sensor in the XSi shows the imperfections in the kit (entry level) lenses.

BTW the kit came with a DVD narrated by Rick Sammon. Just found this site of his among others. I've just watched the first couple of chapters on the DVD, but Rick appears to be an excellent teacher of the camera and its uses. So far, I'm enjoying watching it on my PC with my camera in my hand.

[Tom]

Thanks for the explanation Bob, much appreciated. Some of this comes back to me from my (film) SLR days, although I wasn't a very good photographer then either; I suspect that's one reason I migrated to point-and-shoot cameras. I was going to say point-and-shoot photography, but realized that would be something of an oxymoron.

[Hfx_Cdn]

    It is funny how some framily reads my mind.  I've been sitting in the bushes on these strings, but FWIW I too have been out looking at DSLRs.  For what we need an entry level would do, so we're loking at the Rebel XS or the Nikon 3000.  Each seems to have some slight areas that are better than the other, but over all they seem to be almost identical.  I know a lot of choice is subjective, but does anyone have any pluses or minuses on either?  Do I really need to go up a model to the XSi

[seilerbird]

Thanks Christian. I'm not sure if or how I'd know if the kit lenses (18-55mm and 55-250mm) are any good. The review that Tom pointed me to says that the excellent sensor in the XSi shows the imperfections in the kit (entry level) lenses.

BTW the kit came with a DVD narrated by Rick Sammon. Just found this site of his among others. I've just watched the first couple of chapters on the DVD, but Rick appears to be an excellent teacher of the camera and its uses. So far, I'm enjoying watching it on my PC with my camera in my hand.

The two kit lenses you have are excellent lenses, both are very sharp. You won't see the imperfections of the lenses, that is hogwash. You would have to blow the photos up to extreme sizes and have a microscope, and know what to look for. At your level they will look exceptional.

About the P mode. P mode is virtually identical to Auto mode. You can also adjust the ISO but you can just leave it on Auto ISO for now. But it puts you in control of when your flash fires. The first rule of photography is that the sun should always hit you in the back of the head (unless you are trying for some kind of artsy photo). Your shadow should point as directly towards the subject as possible. Having the flash on will keep you from getting shadows, which on a person's face can be devastating. My usual mode of operation is to put the flash on any subject less than 12 feet away and in many cases, if I have the chance, I take one shot with the flash on and one shot with it off. If you do the same you will eventually be able to see when the flash will help before you take the photo. Remember, Photography is LIGHT, nothing more, nothing less. Not enough light is the chief cause of failed photos. Look through my photos sometime and notice that every single shot is well lit, that's what makes them look so good. Nothing ruins a photo quicker than poor lighting.

[Bob Buchanan]

The first rule of photography is that the sun should always hit you in the back of the head (unless you are trying for some kind of artsy photo). Your shadow should point as directly towards the subject as possible.

Always?? Probably why your sunsets haven't turned out so well, Tom.  

That's one of those rules that turns out to be not really a myth, but it does have many exceptions -- so, the wording "always", should be omitted (IMO). You seem to shoot mostly birds from afar - so the rule seems to work for you.

People are my prime subjects - and having sun directly behind my head is one of the "worst" positions. I will usually look for a position placing the sun just behind and to one side or the other - giving me back lighting for the hair, and the face in shadows that I will fill with flash. If the sun must be behind me, I want it to one side or the other. That places a shadow to one side or the other of the subjects nose (time of day is important as well)which I fill with flash just enough to keep the shadow, but lessen it in contrast to the rest of the face. The bottom line is that I want the image to have depth -- and flash or sun full in the face does not do that. This in not "artsy" stuff - these are basic rules of people photography.

Example of sun behind and to the side of my subject, HERE.

If I can't find people to photograph -- I mess around with scenery. I find that rarely are my best shots having the shadows of trees and such directly behind that tree or whatever. Also, if the sun is directly behind the shooter while shooting in the mid or later afternoon as one should (or the same timeframe before noon), the shooters shadow will be in the forground. But again, you shoot from afar most of the time, so that wouldn't be a problem for you.

[Tom]

Do I really need to go up a model to the XSi

Ed, if they'd had the Rebel XS in the store and on sale, I would have probably bought it. I took Tom's comment in another topic that "any of those models will be more camera than you need" literally. I was still temped to buy the Nikon, but everything I'd read said that Canon's glass was the best. In practice, I doubt I'd have been able to tell. But I should let the experts comment.

[seilerbird]

Always?? Probably why your sunsets haven't turned out so well, Tom.  

That's one of those rules that turns out to be not really a myth, but it does have many exceptions -- so, the wording "always", should be omitted (IMO). You seem to shoot mostly birds from afar - so the rule seems to work for you.

You should read what I wrote, I said the sun should always hit you in the back of the head (unless you are trying for some kind of artsy photo) Like a sunset. The rule is not a myth, it is a great rule if you actually want your photos to turn out decent. Yes, there are exceptions to every rule, but for a beginner he should have the sun at his back. Doing back lighting is not for beginners. Beginners need to start off getting their shots to come out. The artsy stuff comes later.

[seilerbird]

Here is a copy of the last sunset I took about a week ago at the Grand Canyon. The sun was hitting me in the back of the head.

[Bob Buchanan]

You should read what I wrote, I said the sun should always hit you in the back of the head (unless you are trying for some kind of artsy photo) Like a sunset. The rule is not a myth, it is a great rule if you actually want your photos to turn out decent. Yes, there are exceptions to every rule, but for a beginner he should have the sun at his back. Doing back lighting is not for beginners. Beginners need to start off getting their shots to come out. The artsy stuff comes later.

Well -- I won't say you are wrong, Tom, just that I disagree with you. I hope you are OK with differing opinions here.

I did read what you wrote, actually several times to make I sure understood what you wrote. You wrote, Always, and did not qualify it for beginners. As to your use of the word Artsy (whatever you mean by it) -- your definition appears to include the field of people photography and not the field of bird photography. Most beginners here are and will be shooting people at least 50% of the time. Many have shot with film SLR's and now point and shoot digitals, and may have wondered why the people sometimes turn out bad. Having the sun directly behind them may be the culprit -- (IMO).

My advice to dSLR beginners would be to initially have the sun behind you - but that is not always the best place for it. Read articles on how to photograph people and learn the direction you are going. Not only shooting people images, but other images as well. The sun directly in someones face is not good!

So now we have two views on the position of the sun for beginners, and for the definition of Artsy. Again, hope that is OK, Tom.  

Oh, BTW -- if you read my note below, I did not write that the behind the head rule is a myth . . .  

[seilerbird]

I don't mind differing opinions, I just don't like being told my opinion is wrong. Tom stated that one of the reasons he bought a DSLR is that he was inspired by the photos I have been posting. I was actually addressing my remarks on how to take photographs directly to him. All rules are meant to be broken but I feel a beginning photographer should first learn the rules of composition and photography and then as they progress the can learn when to break those rules. I feel you should crawl before you walk. I guess I will address Tom via a private message if I have any more helpful hints for him.

[Tom]

.. the kit came with a DVD narrated by Rick Sammon.

I'm really enjoying Rick Sammon's video tutorials on the DVD included with the kit. They're arranged in short sessions (aka chapters) of several minutes, each dealing with a separate subject or subset of features, with great explanations. Avoiding lots of theory and gobbledygook, he starts with quick and simple camera setup, followed in the 2nd chapter with out-of-the-box shooting. The DVD is specific to the XSi, and Rick has an XSi in his hand in every chapter and every demo.

Each chapter is summarized at the end, and can be easily re-accessed later without having to watch the whole DVD or use a fast-forward button. Many of the live demos are shot 'on scene', allowing Rick to explain the lighting in each situation and how he uses &/or manipulates it to create the shot; He also shows the results of incorrectly using the light.

I have no idea how long Canon has been doing this, or if it's common in the DSLR world, but they use a new (to me) terminology in the manual, on the DVD, and on the camera dial e.g.:

• Green mode = full auto
• Tv (time value) = shutter priority
• Av (aperture value) = aperture priority

Rick makes a point of using equivalent terms during his explanations.

Now if only I can remember all this stuff when it comes to taking creating a shot.

[seilerbird]

That's why I recommend the P mode. You don't have to remember anything except to occasionally pop the flash up.

[Bob Buchanan]

I don't mind differing opinions, I just don't like being told my opinion is wrong. Tom stated that one of the reasons he bought a DSLR is that he was inspired by the photos I have been posting. I was actually addressing my remarks on how to take photographs directly to him. All rules are meant to be broken but I feel a beginning photographer should first learn the rules of composition and photography and then as they progress the can learn when to break those rules. I feel you should crawl before you walk. I guess I will address Tom via a private message if I have any more helpful hints for him.

Tom, my notes did not tell you you were wrong -- and in my last post I specifically wrote I was not. If I gave that impresson, I apologize. I did sprinkle my posts with  's and IMO's - which I did not find in any of your responses.

I don't disagree with starting with the basics -- that in itself is basic. However, my opinion is that you tell the beginner where they are heading overall vs. making statements that something will Always be a certain way. That to me is a basic concept of teaching. Of course in this case, I don't feel that the sun always being to the back of a shooters head and they should find their shadow straight in front should be a "rule" that can possibly be broken in the first place. Would hate for a shooter to feel they are "breaking a rule" if they move their position to get a better result.

Anyway, glad you feel that exchanging opinions is OK with you -- and hope we are forum friends here  .

[Tom]

You don't have to remember anything except to occasionally pop the flash up.

Aye Tom, I expect I'll be in P mode for some time before moving on. If I didn't run the risk of breaking it off, I'd leave the flash up permanently so I don't have to remember to pop it up 

[maddog348]

I forget about the auto flash and it runs into the Beak of my hat/visor and says "...ERROR...ERROR...." and I have to turn camera off & on again to get my shot. Bad when trying for critters.

[Tom]

Hopefully we can all remain forum friends. Unfortunately, this medium doesn't convey things that accompany "live" (face to face) interaction, e.g. body language. As a result, it's easy to misunderstand the other person &/or to be misunderstood. I know this only too well, and I've had some misunderstandings with individuals here in the past. In my case, one or more staff members will whisper in my ear to "take another look at what you said and how you said it", but sometimes they need to resort to using a 2 x 4 in order to get my attention.

Personally, I appreciate the sharing of expert knowledge and experience with us beginners, and it would be a real shame if anyone refrained from discussions here. I for one am just getting on the first step of the "learning photography" ladder and appreciate all the help I can get. As I said in a prior message, it was your respective photographs that inspired me to keep coming back and consider buying a DLSR.

[Hfx_Cdn]

   Tom FWIW I am advised the Canon Image Stabilization system is superior to the Nikon.  Particularly for the minor shakes we encounter as we  reach these more senior years.  However, I have been cautioned to make sure I compare apples to apples, as lots of retailers sell either without the Stabilization lenses.  So, one needs to make sure any package, or lens purchase includes the IS one.

Ed

[Tom]

Good point Ed. Both the lenses in my kit have 'Image stabilizer' imprinted on them, so maybe I unwittingly made the right choice.

[seilerbird]

   Tom FWIW I am advised the Canon Image Stabilization system is superior to the Nikon.  Particularly for the minor shakes we encounter as we  reach these more senior years.  However, I have been cautioned to make sure I compare apples to apples, as lots of retailers sell either without the Stabilization lenses.  So, one needs to make sure any package, or lens purchase includes the IS one.

Ed

I don't believe that Canon's IS is superior to Nikon's IS, and I shoot with Canon. This is simply an urban legend spread by some Canon user. Nikon makes very fine cameras.

[Tom]

I don't believe that Canon's IS is superior to Nikon's IS...This is simply an urban legend spread by some Canon user. Nikon makes very fine cameras.

Hm, wish I'd read that earlier. I might have been tempted to go with Nikon.

[Tom]

I'm really enjoying Rick Sammon's video tutorials on the DVD included with the kit.

Got through the last chapter/tutorial today. This guy is really good at explaining the how and why of this camera. If I'm lucky, I've retained 5% of what he said/demonstrated, so I'll be going back through the DVD with camera in hand numerous times. Wish I could watch the DVD in the field while shooting  

FWIW there's a version of Rick's DVD on Amazon here. The cover looks quite different and, at $17.99, the price is significantly lower than Canon's $49.95 price. Caveat emptor, in case it's not the same product.

I see a number of Rick's products (inc books) at Amazon, and I'm tempted to buy one or more.

[Tom]

Yesterday I checked out a couple of Nikon DSLRs at Costco. I couldn't really check them out per se, because they either had dead batteries or no batteries at all. But, I was able to pick up the display models and get the look and feel of the exterior, and was able to compare them with the Canon models alongside them.

My first reaction was that the Nikon seemed to have more buttons than the Canon, and it wasn't obvious what they were for. I figured "here's more stuff for which I'd need to read the manual", and decided my XSi is OK. I took one more look after walking around the store, and re-affirmed my choice was OK.

So, any possible buyer's remorse is gone  

P.S. I don't mean to suggest there's anything "wrong" with the Nikon cameras. Heck, who am I to judge? I've spent a week or so familiarizing myself with the Canon, and didn't see a need to go through it all again with another, equally good, but unfamiliar camera.

[Bob Buchanan]

My first reaction was that the Nikon seemed to have more buttons than the Canon, and it wasn't obvious what they were for. I figured "here's more stuff for which I'd need to read the manual", and decided my XSi is OK.

Was reading a review of a pretty heavy duty photo guy the other night - and he was unhappy with his purchase of the new Canon 7D. He had returned it that day before writing the review. Actually, the review was on a forum - so it was interesting noting other 7D users interacting with him.

Anyway, one issue he brought up was that Nikon has a specific button to make a change in a setup whereas the same setting must be done via the Canon menu system. So perhaps more buttons is a good thing to some. He was countered on that by the fact that on Canon cameras such as the 50D or 7D, the shooter can customize certain functions -- to which he countered that you cannot customize a Canon button.

Anyway -- the guys portfolio indicated he knew photography very well and he stood up well against his peers on this forum. OTOH, with me personally -- I would purchase a 7D in a heartbeat. Am not even thinking in that direction as speed shooting is not what I do - and 15mp's is enough resolution for what I do. I'll probably be looking ahead to the 8D or whatever that upgrade might be. For now, I couldn't be happier with my 50D with the "buttons" it currently has vs. needing more buttons. 

Anyway, I reached the same point between Nikon and Canon. One day I just said, "The Hell with It, Bob!. They are both fine cameras so you could not go wrong either way -- and the pros at Pardees, Sacto prefer it and make money using it, so that's the end of this discussion". Tho I still have some thoughts when I see a feature that Nikon has that I don't have I ponder a bit, Canon "is" my brand . . .