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PatrioticStabilist

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Ok, I got my tape today.  It's been pouring, wish I had it sooner.  There are minimal instructions, says to make sure surface is dry so that will be a couple days.  But it also says to make sure its clean.

When you folks repair seams and such do you scrape the old material off and then put this on or go over existing tape that is there.  I plan to clean around the vents as its sloppy work.  I suppose I can scrape the other off, but I'm pretty sure the roof is fiberglass and don't want to mess it up.

On a mobile we rent I cleaned around all the vents before resealing, I don't know what I used, not this but its stayed good for years.  But on it I went over the tape with the white sealant.  Is it necessary with this tape?

Also do you clean it with laquer thinner or what before putting the tape on?
 
PatrioticStabilist said:
Ok, I got my tape today.  It's been pouring, wish I had it sooner.  There are minimal instructions, says to make sure surface is dry so that will be a couple days.  But it also says to make sure its clean.

YES - It MUST be clean !!
I used Simple Green


When you folks repair seams and such do you scrape the old material off and then put this on or go over existing tape that is there.  I plan to clean around the vents as its sloppy work.  I suppose I can scrape the other off, but I'm pretty sure the roof is fiberglass and don't want to mess it up.

I peeled off whatever loose caulk was there and left whatever was sticking good. The tabe will totally cover the entire area

On a mobile we rent I cleaned around all the vents before resealing, I don't know what I used, not this but its stayed good for years.  But on it I went over the tape with the white sealant.  Is it necessary with this tape?

Nothing is required after applying the tape

Also do you clean it with laquer thinner or what before putting the tape on?

Laquer thinner works GREAT !!


I wrote up a review with my experience. Check it out here:

http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Eternabond_LiquidRoof.pdf
 
Do any of these Eternabond videos help?

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?action=Ebond
 
Lacquer thinner or Acetone is what is recommended and what I plan to use as soon as my tape comes in this week.
 
Make sure you use a roller when applying it.  That's what activates it. Here's one like I used and it did a great job.

http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17084

You can likely get one locally as well, this was just to show you what kind works best.
 
Sounds good.  We had a roller hubby put formica on a countertop with, likely would work if I knew where it was.  I will just go to Home Depot and see what they have.

That doesn't sound to bad to do.  Will need to wait a few days to dry things out before I tackle that and get my tenant to help with the scaffolding. Need to move the RV out into the sunshine, that should help dry it.  I suppose I could wait, hubby will be home Monday for 2 weeks or perhaps more if he has to wait for the new project to get off the ground.  But man do I have a list of stuff for him to do!!  Finish building out DD's new bathroom, my new walkin closet, the half bath in the garage for outside and on and on.  He doesn't get much done being home on 2 1/2 week increments.  We will just have to move this project to the top of the list, like we always end up doing with rentals!

I didn't think to search for the information, I should have known it was here.  Thank you and I will read it to see what all is suggested. 
 
I would NOT use lacquer thinner or acetone on a rubber roof - it will penetrate and loosen the glue that holds the roof material on. Mineral spirits is much less volatile and will usually loosen any old caulk or tape.

You want to remove any old caulk that is not firmly adhered. I would also try to level off any "hump" of caulk along a seam, since the Eternabond adheres best if it has a flat surface to cling to. It's ok to have a hump if the EB extends beyond it enough to firmly grasp the adjacent flat surfaces and seal out water, but if the old stuff goes to the edge of the EB tape, it could leave a crack underneath where water can seep in.

It is not necessary to put anything else on the EB if you can get it properly applied in the first place. The stuff is waterproof and extremely tough. I "temporarily" fixed a gaping hole in a metal shed with it several years ago and it is still holding fine.
 
RV Roamer said:
I would NOT use lacquer thinner or acetone on a rubber roof - it will penetrate and loosen the glue that holds the roof material on. Mineral spirits is much less volatile and will usually loosen any old caulk or tape.

I used the Lacquer thinner only because it was what Eternabond recommended to use. I'm sure Mineral Spirits will work just as well.
 
I used a cleaner called Oil Eater with my RV, and a generic Simple Green with our rig at work when I Eternabonded the two times I've done it.  Both were spray on, wipe off gunk-busting cleaners and both did very well with a couple applications and lots of paper towels.  ;)  A dry surface is imperative - I tried to stick down a strip of Eternabond while the roof was still wet from the spray cleaner, and the tape just pulled right off like an old Band-aid.  You'll know when it's on there correctly because it will NOT come off.  One or more of the videos Tom posted above show that quite well.  I didn't have a roller but just made sure I applied lots of sliding pressure back and forth several times to make sure it was down.  I didn't remove any caulk prior to application, but I made sure I always had plenty of room (an inch or so) on either side of any caulk lines, to avoid gaps as Gary mentioned.  Great stuff!
 
If you must use acetone, lacquer thinner or MEK on an EPDM rubber roof, use sparingly and put it on a cloth and wipe the surface to be cleaned. Do not pour it into a EPDM rubber roof and then try to wipe up or scrub.

If it's a metal or fiberglass roof, then no worries.
 
RV Roamer said:
put it on a cloth and wipe the surface to be cleaned.

That is EXACTY how I used it.

I was primarily concerned with getting the dirt off of the old caulk and the surface above it ( the vent ) and just below it ( the roof ). It didn't take much at all to get all of the areas clean
 
Ok, I bet I didn't get enough tape, I only bought 50 foot and after looking over the top there is more then 1 seam needing done, the one in the front alone will consume 16 feet if I put 2 strips down.  I also see tape coming loose around vents.  I'm going to put in an order for another roll.  We also have the Silver Streaks and possibly could use some on them though I doubt it.  They are 26 years old and the only leak on either is around one of the front windows.  I think its been out and poorly reinstalled.

My husband will never let me walk on a roof without plywood to distribute the weight, yet I hear and see people doing it.  Humm

Looks awesome, thank goodness I don't need the paint though.  Maybe on the mobile we have though it doesn't leak either.  But its time to check it over again too, will use this tape if I need to do any repairs after washing it down.

I'm itching to get started on it.
 
I'm pretty sure this roof is fiberglass like the rest of the RV.  OH, wonderful the sun is coming out.  Need to move it out from under the tree to get the drying going good.
 
I started on this to try and get the leak in the front stopped before I put the paneling back and fix the flooring down from this. I see several places I'm going to caulk and replace this all the way across.  It's not going to look nice but I'm running the Eternabond down to the seam.  Maybe we can touch up with some paint.

I couldn't get the tape off, it has like a black asphalt kind of base.  I took hubbies Dremel tool and its coming off pretty easily.  Where the really hard stuff was I scratched some paint off, but it will be under the tape.  There was a big glob of sealant and it needed to come off.

Question!!  Do I have to clean every bit of that black gunk off, if so its going to take me forever.  Can I tape over it if I get the bulk of it off?  I'm thinking it might help it adhere., it's still pliable.

I'm guessing this has been a repair of some type as the rivets are big on here.  There's nothing like this on our old trailers, each seam is riveted and sealed with little or no space.  Wind has caught this in the past and pulled it up maybe??
 

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I answered my own question.  It's not to hard to get off just lots of paper towels.  I couldn't reach any further so quit for today.  My husband, Tom, will be in tomorrow afternoon.  Tuesday he can fix me a scaffolding of some type.  It's not supposed to rain all week so I will be ok.

I was going to caulk with some RV caulk and when I looked realized they gave me brown, that won't work so I just quit for today.

Need to do some housekeeping before he gets in tomorrow or he will think I just play all the time! ;)

He will be a huge help and can do a lot I can't do.  He will be home 2 1/2 weeks or possibly till the beginning of the year.  The new project is just starting so he won't know till he visits with folks downtown at the office, its in Angola. 

He has sooooo much to do when he is home, its impossible for him to do it all.  I hope he is here till the first of the year that would be so great.
 

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Isn't mineral spirits oil based.  If so that is a no no on EPDM.
 
I got an adhesive remover at the auto parts store.  Since I scratched some of the paint off with the dremel, I see its aluminum under there, its not rubber or anything.  Actually the roof looks really good for such an old motorhome.

I don't think this is leaking anywhere but at the end of it.  The rest was stuck really good.  Or perhaps from the middle.  The channel down beside the rivets did not have the adhesive tape stuck there, they just went over the top.  I'm going to roll it right down the grove when I put it on and like I said go all the way to the seams on each end. At least I will have a good clean surface to start with.
 
tvman44 said:
Isn't mineral spirits oil based.  If so that is a no no on EPDM.

Yes and no, you only put the solvent on the cloth and wipe off the adhesive.  MS evaporates quickly so there is little to no penetration.  Just do not pour it on and leave itand you will be OK.  It is the same with waxes, almost all have some form of solvent in them and it evaporates quickly so there is really no problem.  It is the long exposure time that will do it in.
 
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