Topic: Lifting a travel trailer (Read 931 times)

banderarver · « **on:** October 29, 2009, 08:53:22 AM »

I havent had a chance to look at it yet, but is there any reason you cant install lift blocks on the axle/leafsprings similar to what you do to the rear of a truck to lift the trailer? I am looking for about 2" of lift to keep the back end from dragging. BTW, I am installing Paktron 5" skid wheels. These things are seriously heavy duty and should help me back into my driveway, but the trailer overall sits a lot lower than most.

Honest John · « **Reply #1 on:** October 29, 2009, 09:29:44 AM »

I won't comment on the method you propose, simply because there are far more qualified people than I in this forum. However, I know that a fairly common practice with trailers & 5th wheels is to "flip the axels". That is to remove the axel from the spring and move it to the bottom of the spring and it gives you more ground clearance.

I once had this done to my 5th wheel to make it match up to my truck (height) better. I had it done professionally (at an RV repair facility) to ensure that it was done correctly and maintain proper alignment. I would not suggest doing it yourself.

John

banderarver · « **Reply #2 on:** October 29, 2009, 10:15:45 AM »

Ahh, I guess I assumed that they were already underneath the leaf springs. As far as doing it, I work at a shop so thats not an issue.

I have done a few flip kits on older 2wd trucks back in the day and it is pretty straight forward, so I guess I'll have a few things to look at.

Lou Schneider · « **Reply #3 on:** October 29, 2009, 11:21:22 AM »

I know you know this, but for the benefit of others who might be considering a flip:

Flipping the axles is fairly straightforward, but you don't actually "flip" or turn the axles upside-down to mount them under the springs. New spring mounts are welded to the top of the axles and they're moved right-side-up to mount underneath the springs.

If you turn the axles upside-down you'll mess up the camber of the tires.

banderarver · « **Reply #4 on:** October 29, 2009, 02:16:39 PM »

Good idea to bring that up. You never know....

Dave Stringham · « **Reply #5 on:** October 29, 2009, 02:25:23 PM »

When I had a 5th wheel, I flipped the axles, it was my experience that there was a considerable difference in handling since the center of gravity was changed. Lower seemed more stabble but I did achieve the even ride height I was seeking when matched to my stock F-350 4x4.

joer · « **Reply #6 on:** October 29, 2009, 06:12:43 PM »

I just got through with lifting my 5th wheel by adding a 3 inch splice in the spring hangers. We have driven just a few more than 1000 miles at this point and it seems to be working well. I needed the lift because I changed from 15 to 16 inch wheels. Flipping the axles will add more height--but perhaps too much for comfort. I was not so concerned with the possible handling change, but the height would make the steps physically pretty darn tall. Enjoy life. This is not a dress rehearsal. joe

banderarver · « **Reply #7 on:** November 02, 2009, 03:55:47 PM »

Getting ready to flip the axles, should be a quick fix as there is no camber built into the axles. As far as the steps, it has a single right now and once this is done a triple step may be going on, depending on the new height. I am pretty nervous about doing all this, but my tech says he does it "all the time" so we will see. Wish me luck....

RV Roamer · « **Reply #8 on:** November 02, 2009, 08:00:31 PM »

GOOD LUCK!!!

edjunior · « **Reply #9 on:** November 03, 2009, 08:08:13 AM »

And take some pictures. I think this would make a very cool viewing event.

banderarver · « **Reply #10 on:** November 03, 2009, 04:11:00 PM »

Doh! Already hit a road block. This trailer has drop axles, so I cant simply just flip them around. I considered just buying some new spring mounts and welding them on the top, but I dont think that will give me enough lift. I am gettimg some measurements together to order some straight axles, and will then install them under the springs for approx 7 inches of lift. That sounds like a lot but this thing really is dragging, the frame only sits about 12 inches off the ground, if that.

banderarver · « **Reply #11 on:** November 04, 2009, 06:43:49 PM »

Got one axle done! Man, it looks to be a lot higher than I thought, but with only one done I am not sure this is the final result. The center rocker set up looks like it will bring it down a little, but I guess we will see. Here are some pics, not great ones though. Oh, and it is not sitting on the jack stands in the back, there is about 1/4" of clearance.

check out this thread for before pics...

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,26695.0.html

edjunior · « **Reply #12 on:** November 05, 2009, 07:57:55 AM »

Well, it sure looks like you got your 2". And then some! But like you said, we'll have to see how it looks after it is all said and done. Interesting mod.

banderarver · « **Reply #13 on:** November 05, 2009, 06:39:35 PM »

Hmm, well, uhhh, so I got a lot more than I was hoping for here. Turns out it is NINE inches higher then before!!! OK, so immediately everyone starts calling me an idiot for lifting it that high when everyone was around while we were doing it knowing that we weren't going to know how high it was until we were done, but you know how that goes. The guy that was going to weld everything up for me flat out refused saying I was going to flip it and burst into flames. Some of the other RV guys said it would be fine, so now I am a little paranoid.

Now common sense tells you anything you lift/change from stock can cause stability issues. This goes for anything, no problem. So I go out on our lot and find a new Fleetwood Pioneer 30ft trailer and measure it from the rear bumper to the ground and it is 27 inches, from the frame at rear is 23 inches, and from the frame in between the two tires to the ground and it is 21.5 inches. I measure mine from the same spots and it is identical. I measured the overall height and the Pioneer is 10ft, mine is 10 ft. (top drip rail to ground). Logic tells me if the build trailers that sit up that high, it shouldn't be an issue. Now of course, driving with a trailer means you dint drive like you do normally, but this guy made it sound like even if I was careful (like you would be towing a 36 ft trailer) I was going to have problems due to the lift.

Opinions?

BTW, 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 X-Cab 4x4 3.73 gears Truck's GVWR 7007lbs. 7500lbs tow capacity, 13000 GCWR. Trailers GVWR is 7000. Reese 10,000/1000lb eq hitch with sway control, prodigy electric brake controller.

utahclaimjumper · « **Reply #14 on:** November 05, 2009, 08:48:35 PM »

Close friend of mine has a 35 ft. 7000lbs. 5er (older) with dual slides, we flipped his axels 5 years ago, it looks high but tows really well, the trick is to install very high quality shocks to prevent any rolling motion, all else is fine.>>>D

navyshooter · « **Reply #15 on:** November 30, 2009, 05:32:50 AM »

Going to have to do this to whatever 5th-er I end up buying. My Dodge sits up way to high to tow a normal height trailer. Any thought to going up a size or two on tires?

RV Roamer · « **Reply #16 on:** November 30, 2009, 08:54:46 AM »

You can increase tire size and also shift the springs to the top of the axles rather than underneath (aka "flipping" the axle). Or add shims. The downside in all cases is that you are raising the center of gravity, which tends to increase roll & sway. Raise it enough and you affect stability going down the road.

A little bit of nose-up attitude (a couple inches?) probably isn't too harmful, but neither is a few inches in increased COG height. If its more than that, I'd be looking to lower the truck rather than raising the trailer. Ford used to offer a lowering kit for trailer towing with their Superduty 4x4's, which were several inches too high.

navyshooter · « **Reply #17 on:** November 30, 2009, 10:42:40 AM »

Well, lowering isn't really an option for me. Although admittedly it would probably be the smarter/cheaper way to go. My thinking is, I've got a 22' gooseneck with a bed height of about 38". I've stacked units of lumber on there that brought overall height to 12' +/-. The CG on that would have to be a lot higher than an RV, right? Towing that around the Northwest mountains, I-84 gorge winds, etc. never was a problem. Just throwing ideas around. Would upgrade axles to heavier duty, 8 lug wheels, stout-er tires. I'm not too impressed with factory RV trailer tires/wheels anyway. Seem pretty flimsy to me.

RV Roamer · « **Reply #18 on:** November 30, 2009, 09:28:05 PM »

Agree that most trailer mfgrs skimp on the axles, trying to save a $100 or two. Larger axles with bigger brakes and big tires is a plus.

navyshooter · « **Reply #19 on:** December 01, 2009, 04:36:04 AM »

Yep, about $100 IS all it is too. Built a smaller, bumper-pull util. trailer a few years ago, and upgrading to heavier duty than required was a no brainer after comparing cost. Any idea what is average center-to-center distance on RV framerails? I'm sure all mfgrs are different, but prob not by much. That'll give me a starting point for searching.

Mr Bojangles · « **Reply #20 on:** December 01, 2009, 08:38:19 AM »

BANDERARVER:

What exactly have you done to get that height? Could we see pictures of axle area, I mean the change that was done to axles.

Thanking you.

Honest John · « **Reply #21 on:** December 01, 2009, 11:27:18 AM »

I suspect that my suggestion to flip the axles probably should have been reconsidered when you discovered that your unit had drop axles. I'm really sorry that this does not seem to have worked for you. I suspect replacing the drop axles with straight axles is what caused the significant change in height. On my 5er the axles were straight so I got elevation, but not in the amount that you have achieved.

banderarver · « **Reply #22 on:** March 09, 2010, 11:09:25 PM »

Been a while, but here's the latest. So when it was all said and done this thing sat very high. Simply installing straight axles in lieu of the drop axles would have given me about 4 inches give or take, but I decided to go all out. As I said earlier it was about 9 inches higher than before. However, once I got my eq hitch all set up, I was able to drop the front end slighty, whereas before it was a little high in the front, and the thing towed like a dream as compared to before. I forgot to mention, the tires that were on the trailer were literally p rated 235 car tires. I think that the majority of the towing improvments were gaind from switching to e load carlyle trailer tires in 235/75 15.

I get it home, and it cleared the driveay all right, but looks like I had a mobile home parked in the yard. This thing is hugantic!!! Welp, after a few days of staring at this monstrosity, I ended up selling ti to a friend of the family and getting all of my money back, plus a little extra for my grief, and bought an 06 Pioneer Fleetwood 180 CK from an oldtimer that bought it new a few years back and apparently never used it becuase the thing was like brand new. Got a killer deal on it and all it needed was tires, so I ditched the 14 inchers and put some 15's with really tall tires to get it up in the air (again) to clear my driiveway. Have been out in it 3 times already and we are loving it. Cant wait for next month when we make our first trip down to the beach for some fishin!!

(http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/912/002mf.jpg)

(http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/3138/rv001.jpg)

(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/9069/rv005.jpg)

(http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/4076/rv004.jpg)

edjunior · « **Reply #23 on:** March 10, 2010, 07:54:58 AM »

Boy, what a story! That was a lot of work, and kept us quite entertained. Glad you ended up with what you wanted and are enjoying it!

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Author Topic: Lifting a travel trailer (Read 931 times)