Towing with 07 Silverado 1/2 Ton. Advice?

[ArrowheadPeople]

Hello.  My wife and I and teenage son travel within Florida and have camped in our pop-up for four years.  We average four to five trips a year.  These are mostly long weekends to Florida state parks with an occasional week long trip.  We want to trade up to a Coachmen Freedom Express but need to know the maximum we can tow.

I own a 2007 Silverado 1500 extended cab with the 5.3L engine and 3:42 axle ratio.  It has the Z85 handling package and locking differential.
GVWR from the door sticker is 6800 lbs.  
Actual weight from a public scale with full tank and driver outside is 5,260 lbs.
Driver and family weight is 525 lbs.
Estimated gear we load in the truck is 300 lbs.
Therefore the calculated gross truck weight is 6,085 lbs.
GCWR from the owner’s manual is 12,000 lbs leaving around 6,000 lbs for the gross trailer weight.

Based on the above calculations will my truck handle a 6,000 lb gross weight trailer?  I’m looking at a couple of Coachmen models with actual ship weights less than 6,000 lbs.  Considering we mostly pack light for short trips how much should I estimate for added trailer weight?  I may be pushing the limits of my ½ ton now but a bigger truck is in the future for trips out of state.

[Naturist RVer]

My general rule of thumb is to only tow about 75 - 80% of the tow vehicles rating. This gives a cushion in terms of suspension (think handling) and power (that mountain grade you're climbing or getting around that slow 18 wheeler). Also, consider that the owners manual will give two tow ratings. One is towing using a weight distribution hitch, and this rating usually lower than towing without it.

[Honest John]

GCWR from the owner's manual is 12,000 lbs leaving around 6,000 lbs for the gross trailer weight.

Based on the above calculations will my truck handle a 6,000 lb gross weight trailer? I'm looking at a couple of Coachmen models with actual ship weights less than 6,000 lbs.  Considering we mostly pack light for short trips how much should I estimate for added trailer weight?  I may be pushing the limits of my ½ ton now but a bigger truck is in the future for trips out of state.

Yes you will be "pushing" your truck's capability.  Shipping weight of a trailer is not the weight you need to concider.  You need to look at the gross weight of the trailer.  Shipping weight is (estimated) empty weight of the unit, it does not include water (at about 8lbs per gallon), food, food, clothes, gear etc.

I have no doubt that your truck will be able to move the trailer, but you really need to consider how well it will handle and STOP the trailer.

I know you are trying to spread the cost of a truck and trailer out a bit and I appreaciate your reasons, but your family's safety is far more important.  If I were you I'd consider other options.   

Just my opinion

[RV Roamer]

Yes your truck will handle close to 6000 lbs. We usually recommend staying under the max, especially with a fairly small displacement engine like the 5.3, but you've accounted for most of the extra loads that people typically forget about, so you are probably ok up to about 5700 lbs or so.

As for the trailer dry weight, don't get trapped by that. The trailer always ways more than that when you get it form the dealer. Full propane tanks is one extra and there will also be some water in the bottom of the tanks, even if it says empty, and 6-10 gallons in the water heater, water lines, etc.. Figure at least a 100-150 lbs over the dry weight and more if there are any factory or dealer installed options. You need to be looking at dry weights somewhat under 5000, e.g. the Freedom Express 24.

[56kz2slow]

Gary's right about dry weight and options.  On my Trail Sport (by deceased R-Vision), the dry weight has a foot note that says does not include options.  Then they have a table with options and weights.  I have 500 lbs of options on my model.  It adds quick when some manufacturer consider basic things like the steps, stabilizer jacks, spare tire, battery, propane tanks as options.  Then you need to fill your propane tanks and then count the real heavy options like AC, awning, microwave etc.

I finally came to the conclusion that listening to the veterans here that basing a trailer weight by the gvwr is much better.

I'm in a similar boat as you, but with 3.73 gears, gives me 500 lbs more towing capacity and a GCWR of 13000 lbs. 

My trailer has a GVWR a hair under 6000 lbs.  So no worries for me.  I use to tow the same thing with a small V6 SUV and still have underwear that the stains won't come off.

[ArrowheadPeople]

Thank you all for the quick responses.  I’m going to the Coachmen dealer this weekend armed with good information.  He told me Coachmen weighs each unit as it leaves the factory after the power awning, power stabilizers and power jack are installed.  I was told the only thing this dealer adds to the weight is propane and batteries.  The rest is water and our gear.  Do you think I can trust this factory weight sticker?  I know how much propane weighs but how much do batteries weigh?

[COMer]

I think the info the dealer will give you, regrading the weight, will be pretty accurate and certainly good enough to use.  But there is another issue that changes the towing ease and comfort of a trailer and that is how high the front is.  Worlds of difference between a low profile and a mid-profile or especially a high-profile.  If your Coachmen is under 6,000# and low-profile, I think you would enjoy it.  But maybe not if it is a mid-profile unit.  I towed a low-profile Coachmen with a similar truck and was fine but would not have wanted to be hauling anything taller.

[RV Roamer]

These days you can trust the weight sticker in the trailer. It's the weights in the brochures (or web site) that are merely approximations using some base configuration.

A typical 12v deep cycle battery will weight between 47 and 57 lbs, depending on size and type.