Topic: 2001 Silverado 3500 6.0L (Read 994 times)

snook · « **on:** November 07, 2009, 01:18:24 PM »

Well, I was unable to find this truck in the search funtion.......so I am posting a new topic to ask what you guys think of this as a tow vehicle? I am looking at trading for it because the 1992 GMC 6.
5L turbo-diesel I have is having some pretty serious problems. I understand that I would be downgrading simply by going from diesel to gasoline. I have no doubt that the chasis of the 3500 model is enough for most anything I would want to pull, but what about the 6.0 gasoline? I haven't yet bought the (most likely) fifth wheel, as i am buying the tow vehicle first. Whaddyall think of this (in general) as a tow vehicle, and more importantly, the motor's capability.
PS I wanna go to Oregon from Texas. Thanks

RV Roamer · « **Reply #1 on:** November 07, 2009, 06:05:32 PM »

The 6.0 gas engine is a quality engine, but light on torque and horsepower for serious towing. In 2001 you are talking 366 cubic inches, 300 or 325 hp and 370 lb-ft of torque. I think that anything you need a 3500 to tow with is going to want more grunt and diesel is the way to go. If not diesel, at least an 8.1L V8 for a sizable trailer. But if the trailer is modest in weight, maybe the 6.0 will be sufficient if you are mostly in the flat lands. And the 6.0 probably has as much power as that old 6.5L diesel, albeit at higher RPMS. You's probably be satisfied if you kept the same trailer but switched to the 6.0L

Since you haven't bought the trailer yet, what size are you thinking of?

COMer · « **Reply #2 on:** November 07, 2009, 11:20:21 PM »

I tow with a 6.0 in a 2500. The rig is rated to tow 10,600 pounds and my rig weighs about 8,000. Plenty of power for that trailer and about 10 MPG if I don't get in a hurry. Very happy with the engine for my sized trailer. Whether it would work for you would surely depend on what size trailer you are looking for. Diesel is rated to pull about 5,000 #s more.

snook · « **Reply #3 on:** November 08, 2009, 08:54:23 AM »

I take it then, Gary, that you are not a fan of the 6.5 turbo-diesel. You see the thing is.......I am on a limited budget and my plan has been to buy a truck that is enough to pull whatever floor plan and financially feasible unit I might encounter. Just how limited do you think I might be at the specs on that 6.0 3500? And, lemme ask you about another truck that I could swing.....It is a 1999 ( yeah, I know, but it only has 97k on it, and don't forget my budget) 7.4L gasoline chevy 2500 with a man. 5 speed. How do you like a manual tranny, in general, and how do you like this one vs. the 6.0 3500? Sorry I can't be more clear about a trailer but I am at the mercy of the almighty $ (or lack thereof). By the way, the wife and I are planning to go to Oregon and retire with this unit as our home......of course that doesn't mean we would never go anywhere else. How much mountainous terrain problems do you see in our future? Thanks....joining this site is the best thing I ever did and I thank you all, so much

RV Roamer · « **Reply #4 on:** November 08, 2009, 09:46:22 AM »

I hear ya on the budget, snook. Nearly all of us have to live under some constraints in that regard.

As COMer says, the 6.0 Vortec in a 3500 is rated to tow about 9500-9900 lbs in the flat lands. You have to knock off about 10% from that to cover the weight of the passengers and gear in the truck, hitch, etc. Knock off another 10% because you plan to tow in the western mountain regions, where altitude will starve the non-turbo gas engine of power (figure about 3% loss for every 1000 ft of altitude). That means you could reasonable tow 7500-8000 lbs in and around Oregon. If that suits the trailer you have in mind, then fine. Don't expect much fuel economy when towing, though.

With a trailer under 8000 lbs, you could go with a smaller/lighter truck to. A 2500 Light Duty would be nice if you could find one but the Silverado 1500 with the same engine is going to be rated somewhere between 7900 and 10,000, depending on the exact configuration. You need to become familiar with the Towing Guide on the Trailerlife.com website. It shows the tow ratings for all the potential tow vehicles.

www.trailerlife.com

snook · « **Reply #5 on:** November 08, 2009, 12:59:13 PM »

thanks a million, Gary.....So whaddya think of manual vs. auto tranny?

RoyM · « **Reply #6 on:** November 08, 2009, 01:02:57 PM »

Snook, we are in a similar situation. We need a bigger truck to pull our current 5er but plan to upgrade the trailer a few years down the road. We are also under budget constraints, the household CFO sez so, but don't I want to upgrade the truck a second time.
The six litre gasser should handle anything up to 26' comfortably with the right gearing. Just don't be in a hurry in the Donner Pass. The 7.4 (454) is a brute and will likely pull just about anything you care to put behind it but has a real affinity for gas stations. As Gary suggests, you likely will be happier with the Duramax pulling anything big enough to live in comfortably full time. FWIW, I won't touch a pre 2000 GM diesel, I managed a fleet of light trucks in a previous life and the 6.5s gave me no end of grief.
I like the standard for towing but frequent shifting does get old especially in heavy traffic..

snook · « **Reply #7 on:** November 08, 2009, 03:22:01 PM »

Okay, RoyM.......I sure do appreciate the good data. However.....(you knew there would be one, didn't you), right now a duramax is not available to me under the current circumstances and there just isn't one in my market @ my budget. So here's basically (there are a couple o' others, but I don'ty think they would make the cut, either) what's available to me..........The 3500 crew cab 6.0L automatic trans........and a c/k crew cab 2500 7.4L with a man. 5 speed. Now, I am liking the 2500 for the 7.4 but I'm not sure how much I am liking the man. 5 speed. The 2500 does have less miles on it, though.......90k. How do you like that unit, as a versatile "pull most whatever I might want" rig?

RV Roamer · « **Reply #8 on:** November 08, 2009, 06:52:15 PM »

Quote

So whaddya think of manual vs. auto tranny?

I'd go with the auto tranny every time. It's not just convenience - the auto is just plain better for towing. The built-in slippage of the torque converter is just what you need to apply power for heavy towing. Ya just gotta keep 'em cool. Use synthetic tranny fluid and add an aux cooler if it doesn't already have a towing package.

COMer · « **Reply #9 on:** November 08, 2009, 08:31:53 PM »

My guess is that there would be a significant difference in mileage between those two rigs. Maybe VERY significant.

RV Roamer · « **Reply #10 on:** November 09, 2009, 12:10:11 PM »

There is very little mpg difference between an auto and a stick anymore. Lock-up torque converters and overdrives in the auto has made it pretty much equivalent. I'm not saying a skilled stick driver can't eke out a lot of mpg, but for most people its going to be pretty close.

COMer · « **Reply #11 on:** November 09, 2009, 02:37:00 PM »

The MPG difference I was assuming was because the auto was a 6.0 and the stick was a 7.4. I assume that engine, and truck, is also older but the differience in the engines, not the tranny, was what I wanted him to be aware of.

RV Roamer · « **Reply #12 on:** November 09, 2009, 08:50:28 PM »

You are probably right about the 6.0 vs the 454. I was addressing strictly the difference between auto and manual, assuming the same engine for each.

snook · « **Reply #13 on:** November 10, 2009, 08:38:16 AM »

okay guys.....I am going to check this 2500 7.4L Man. 5 right now. I think under my current constraints it is gonna be the best choice for me. That is unless the best choice for me is to just wait. I feel like I've dodged a bullet on the 6.0 3500, thanks to you here at the forum. Thanks

RV Roamer · « **Reply #14 on:** November 10, 2009, 09:30:48 AM »

It's tough to make a tow truck decision when you don't have the trailer and therefore don't know what you are shopping for. You end up having to buy a lot of truck, just in case you might need it. That's always a good idea, but its also a budget buster.

If you could set some limits on the size/weight of the trailers you will be looking at, it will make the truck decision easier.

snook · « **Reply #15 on:** November 10, 2009, 04:31:46 PM »

yeah, well what would you be looking for, if you were me, Gary? I am thinking, now (I just got back from looking at the chevy 2500 7.4L......no dice) of just making the improvements I need to my Sierra 3500 6.5 turbo-diesel. By the way, the rating on my truck is way higher than the rating on that 7.4 gasser. The trouble I am having with my 1 ton is a kind of wobbling (I have checked out eveything except the driveshaft and bearings) and it uses a little oil.....about a quart to every 1200....I'm looking for leaks right now as we speak. But until something else more impressive than what I just saw, that's my plan. My old truck only has 113k on it. have you noticed how the topic of this discussion has turned dramatically from when it began? HA! Which brings to mind the question.........you really think I'd be better off with the Silverado 3500 6.0 gasoline than the truck I have (towing power)?

RV Roamer · « **Reply #16 on:** November 10, 2009, 06:17:50 PM »

Depends on how well that 6.5L diesel is running. Most of them are trouble prone and sluggish to boot. But if yours is doing well, at least you have the low end torque & horsepower advantage of the diesel.

What would I be looking for in a trailer? Something in the 34-38 foot range, maybe a Carri-lite or a Hitchhiker, and I'd probably need a 4500 or 5500 to pull it cause it would likely weight 16k or so.

COMer · « **Reply #17 on:** November 10, 2009, 06:21:30 PM »

I assume Gary will check in but until then, I'll comment on your last sentence. No, the 6.0 does not compare to the diesel for towing power. But what do you need? The 6.0 has loads of power but not if you want a trailer that is 10,000# or more. It sure seems that if you can get your truck fixed, that you know everything about, that it would be a better investment than another one you know nothing about. Keep in mind that buying either of the trucks you have talked about does not mean that they will not have problems such as you are having with the diesel. You could buy a used tuck and inherit problems or develop them down the road, and not too far.

JNewkirk77 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 10, 2009, 07:54:57 PM »

Snook,

I'll have to dig up the TSB I had around here somewhere, but it wasn't too many years ago that GM considered oil consumption in the 1 quart per 1,000 mile range "normal." Unless yours is obviously leaking somewhere, it's probably burning it. Depending on the miles on the truck, I wouldn't get too worked up over it.

kevin · « **Reply #19 on:** November 10, 2009, 09:36:21 PM »

OK Snook, My dad has a 2004 2,500 HD with the 6.0 and auto in it. I use it sometimes to pull a 6,500lb backhoe 3axle trailer, with a 7,500-8500lb 4x4 tractor on it. It is fine...once it finally gets going, as long as their are no hills, other wise, it has the tach peged and sounds as if a rod will shoot thru the hood. Its a nice truck but deff would not buy one for pulling trailers.

I have a 74 flat bed chevy with a olds 455, and a 4spd that pulls the same load, the difference is it isn't screaming up the hills, it just lugs up and over(not very fast though) plus It's got no AC and rides like a buck board.

RV Roamer · « **Reply #20 on:** November 11, 2009, 09:59:58 AM »

Quote

I have a 74 flat bed chevy with a olds 455...

When it comes to gas engines, there is no substitute for cubic inches if you want to pull a load.

A high revving small block engine can get the job done, but the emphasis is on "high revving" cause that's the only way it generates enough power to move a heavy load.

snook · « **Reply #21 on:** November 11, 2009, 11:31:22 AM »

you guys are the greatest.......can't tell you whadda relief it is to have someone to tell me this stuff that used to keep me up at night. OK.....lets go on the premise that MY truck is THE truck that I will be using. Anyone know how to find out about the tranny (what transmission it is) and whether or not I need to add a cooling unit, how well it will manage etc. etc. I guess I am about to start preppin' it for whatever I buy to put behind it within the next 5-10 months. Is there a website I can go and plug my vin into or something to find out about the tranny? Also, did I mention that this truck is a reg cab and I have a big dog and a wife? Anyone have any thoughts on how to improve space? I don't suppose one of those "cowboy sleeper" things would be a good idea for fifth wheel turn radius, would it?

JNewkirk77 · « **Reply #22 on:** November 11, 2009, 06:01:01 PM »

If you want to find out how your truck was equipped from the factory (as far as the transmission and so forth), check with your nearest GM dealer. Since yours is a GMC, that'd be my first choice, but any GM dealer should be able to pull up the info with a VIN number.

Also, and this may prove handy if the dealer isn't, there should be a Service Parts Identification label (the one with all the three-character codes, like Z82) somewhere, probably in the glovebox in your case. There are a number of good websites you can check out and see all of those codes, but my personal fave is rpocodes.com. You should be able to decode every mechanical and other option your truck has. I can tell you that it came in handy when I bought my Safari and found out it had the G80 locking axle and full-on towing package.

Hope this helps!

snook · « **Reply #23 on:** November 13, 2009, 10:20:40 AM »

thanks a million, man.......I just joined the "diesel place" forum and I think it is gonna be everything I need to know except for one thing I'd like to ask all of you, which is........would you install a tranny cooler? Wonder what the cost of one is? Is there one that is better than another? Is there a trans fluid leaking hazard invovled with one?

JNewkirk77 · « **Reply #24 on:** November 13, 2009, 12:21:51 PM »

If the truck doesn't already have one (and it really should, it just might be the kind that's inside the radiator tank ... check for lines running from that area back to the transmission), I would ABSOLUTELY install a cooler. Regardless of the cost, it's much less expensive than rebuilding/replacing a transmission.

Any risk of fluid leaking is very small as long as the cooler is installed correctly. As with anything else, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do a visual inspection of the lines every so often, that way you'll know if anything is amiss before it can turn into a problem.

snook · « **Reply #25 on:** November 15, 2009, 09:58:43 AM »

oky doky

snook · « **Reply #26 on:** December 20, 2009, 03:11:25 PM »

Alright, so my GMC diesel is about to give up the ghost (groan). I am back to say that I am gonna get the chevy 3500 with the 6.0 and limit myself to 9500 lbs in the rearview mirror. From my research I think I'll be okay goin that route.......anybody freakin out or even disagreeing??

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Author Topic: 2001 Silverado 3500 6.0L (Read 994 times)