Had a Leak- What Now? I need your help.

[SCC]

Hi All,
I just had a roof leak repaired on my Jayco 26L and the interior wall was damaged. The leak is sealed and I need some advice as to best insure the water is out of the walls.
I was told:
-leave a window cracked open for ventilation
-run a dehumidifier for a few days
We are coming up on winter and I'm afraid any left over water will freeze and cause more crystals in the walls.
Thoughts?
Thanks- Steve

PS- As a first time camper owner who was never told to check the roof (sorry, I missed page 84 of my manual) I am absolutely saddended by Camper Manufacturers and the dealers who don't shout from the roof top that annual re-sealing should be done. It is the most important thing to tell us but yet they spend hours showing you how to work the stove & toilet. That page in the owner's manual should be page one with bright red lettering. 

[1joester2]

Sorry to hear about the leak, but at least it's fixed.

An option you left off was spending time in the southwest. 

I disagree that annual resealing is a requirement. I do agree that at a minimum, a thorough cleaning and inspection should be done.

As far as any remaining moisture in the walls goes, I would consider the dehumidifier the best possible insurance. Naturally you will need a warm enough interior to prevent the dehumidifier from freezing up. Depending on what walls were affected, I would remove/open any possible access points to facilitate the air flow.

Joe

[RV Roamer]

What's the fall humidity like in your region? If it is low (dry), then running the vent fans for 3-4 days ought to be sufficient unless you have reason to believe the walls are soaking wet. If its cold and damp, run the furnace and keep it closed up except for an occasional "air out". The warm air inside will draw the moisture and you can periodically flush with fresh air so the interior humidity doesn't bild to high. Or get the dehumidifier if you feel it is necessary.

[Marcus]

Steve, if you don't mind me asking, who fixed your roof and how did they do it.  I have water damaged wood under my rubber roof and was told by camping wold that the repair and re-roof would start at $5000 and could go as high as $10,000. I have a 40 ft KZ toy hauler.  I don't have any water damage inside the coach.  I  am trying to determine the best approach on my rig and am interested in others experiences in roof repair. Thanks for any info you can provide.  Good luck with yours.  I would also suggest a trip to the Southwest if that is feasible.

[AVTravler]

Many people use caulking to fill the voids in their roof seams, however, with a rubber roof I found the best answer was to use
the tape like material called "Eterna Bond", it lasts for years and ends the chore of caulking your roof seams.  Once aplied it stays there and stops ALL leaks in the seams.   It can also be used to repair small tears/holes in the rubber roof.  Follow the directions when applying it.

[Throrope]

After two 25+ ft travel trailers, I feel your pain.

As far as the resealing requirement, cars don't need it, why should RV's.  I feel that's an easy excuse for manufacturers to hide irresponsible workmanship and inferior design.

Don't be satisfied that you found the only leak.  Don't stop until it is dry.

Two ugly truths that I don't see in magazines is rot and mold.  These are the cancer of RV's and leaks are the source.

Don't be afraid to remove wall panels, replace all soft spongy wood and toss any soaked insulation.

I agree with the dehumidifier after all damage is removed.

Then keep and eye on total costs including depreciation, gas, insurance, storage and your time and compare that to the cost of hotel rooms for the same vacations.  I'm now struggling with residual value and no job.  God help you if you carry a note.

[SCC]

Hi All-
A few folks asked some Q's...
Vans RV fixed the leaks- One was along the front top of the wall and the other was around the antenna. They used some type of rubberized caulk that they have had good results with; Not sure the product name but you can call them to see what they recommend (Vans RV in South Windsor, CT)- They are closed until Janurary but they may check messages.

I've been running a dehumidifier and set the heater on the lowest setting, but need to get a safe electric heater as I have no intention of filling propane tanks every week! I saw some ceramic heaters that seem safe and cheap. If you have some suggestions, please share. The dehumidifer filled up like it would in a damp basement, so I think it's helping suck some water out. We've had freezing weather and I have not noticed any more bumps on the walls, so I'm hoping the damage is limited to the one area it's in.

When I picked up the camper I had them review with me the proper maintenance and where to check the roof in the future. I also confirmed they checked the entire roof. I'm hoping I'm in good shape with this thing! As for the bumos, I'll try the hairdryer method to see if they flatten out. If not, we'll have the kids make some artwork for the wall so when I look at it I think of them and not page 84 of my user's manual!
Happy Holidiays to all you my friends!