Outside hatch door latch broke

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travelingsages

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My outside hatch doors have a paddle that releases the latches on either side. One of my doors just broke the plastic latch on the right side. I took the cover off the inside of the door and releases the mechanism and expected to be able to slide the connecting bar out so that I could replace it and the plastic end, but it will not come out either direction. What is the trick here to get the part out so that I can replace it?
 
Doug

They should be very similar or identical to mine ... I carry a couple of extras just in case!!!  Following is a write-up on how to change them on those around '03 vintage:

Replacing storage compartment door latch bolt/plunger

Tools: Phillips screwdriver, drill & 3/16 or 1/4? drill bit, pop rivet tool, 2 3/16? aluminum pop rivets

Winnebago part #121947-01-01A Bolt w/Plunger. Lichtsinn price apx $5 each (local dealer price apx  $12.95)

Drill out old 3/16" aluminum rivets.  From inside the door, remove the latch mechanism cover, and the latch mechanism.  Depending on your door design/construction, you might want to tie a string onto the rod & hold it in place with the clip.  (You're going to pull the rod partially out the side, and if it falls into the door you'll have to take the door apart to retrieve it. If you door is filled with styrofoam, not much worry about this) 

Pull the bolt out (the rod will come with it) until you can disengage it from the actuating rod (a couple of inches or so), taking note of what hole in the bolt the rod is in.  Put the new bolt on the rod, making sure the bolt is oriented the correct way, & using the same hole for the rod.  Shove the bolt back in, pulling the string at the same time to guide the rod. 

Pop rivet the new bolt assembly into place, remove the clip and string from the rod, and reinstall the rod & clip into the latch mechanism.  Re-install the latch and cover, and you're done.

Let us know if yours are different from this description!!


 
Paul:

Wow! What a fast reply. Yes, it sounds like yours is the same as mine. I was wondering if I was going to have to drill out the rivets on the door edge to get to it from the side.

Lichtsinn is my parts dealer of choice. I will give them a call and get the part (and spares) ordered. Thanks so much for your instructions.
 
I received the replacement latch from Lichtsinn Motors. I ordered three so that I would have spares. They were $5.35 each plus shipping. It installed easily and only took 5 or 10 minutes to do. Interestingly, they came with a thin coating of white grease inside the metal housing where the plastic part moves in and out. I was surprised that they had grease rather than a silicone or dry graphite lubricant. Thanks for the help with my problem.
 
I use white lithium grease in spray form to lube my latch bolts (and many other things too) -- great stuff, and easy to get into the right areas with the little spray tube.
 
travelingsages said:
I received the replacement latch from Lichtsinn Motors. I ordered three so that I would have spares. They were $5.35 each plus shipping. It installed easily and only took 5 or 10 minutes to do. Interestingly, they came with a thin coating of white grease inside the metal housing where the plastic part moves in and out. I was surprised that they had grease rather than a silicone or dry graphite lubricant. Thanks for the help with my problem.

Does anyone know where to get metal latch plungers or assemblies?
 
I have got the original style nylon latch bolts from Lichtsinn motors. If you don't want the OEM nylon, there is an ad every month in the FMCA magazine for aluminum slide bolts from www.motorhomelatches.com ...the ad says they will sell you new ones, or will rebuild your old ones. I know nothing about them other than reading the ad.
 
Thanks!!!  I had heard that these were available but could not find them using google.  Forum saved me again.
 
The paddle latches on my 1999 itasca suncruiser are completely inside the door, only the nylon wedge sticks out.  I drilled out the rivets but of course the whole mechanism is still inside the door.

Looks to me like I will have to disassemble the door or cut an access panel on the inside of the door.
 
I see there are two threads going concerning this, and Paul found the same place I did. Since they are about 30 miles from the house I think I'll give them a call after Quartzsite. I'll happily pay $16 for something that won't snap.
 
Old posting, but still relevant. Just talked to the people at RB Machining. They have a rebuild kit you can fix your old latch with aluminum slide bolt for $10. + freight. Comes with the latch, rivets that you can set with a punch,& a new spring. Mighty easy and about the cost of a plastic one. Thanks, forum!
 
I now keep two rebuilt latches with me along with rivets and a rivet gun now.
 
Mosagra said:
The paddle latches on my 1999 itasca suncruiser are completely inside the door, only the nylon wedge sticks out.  I drilled out the rivets but of course the whole mechanism is still inside the door.

Looks to me like I will have to disassemble the door or cut an access panel on the inside of the door.

didn't find an answer with the mechanism inside the door and the door is filled with foam. Disassembly the only answer? If so what is the best way to disassemble? thanks
 
tusroper said:
didn't find an answer with the mechanism inside the door and the door is filled with foam. Disassembly the only answer? If so what is the best way to disassemble? thanks
Hopefully you have screws or rivits on the backside? our access is through the access cover on the back of the latch
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Is the part # for the latch the same for all years. I have an 06 ellipse. I looked for a video on YouTube but didn't find one. Anyone aware of such a video. Thanks for the help.
 
Perfect timing !
I had another one break and replaced it a few hours ago. I keep two replacements and two rebuild kits with me so I can fix it in the field if necessary. So the answer is yes, Winnie uses the same latches AS FAR AS I KNOW...

Do yourself a favor and buy the good latches or the rebuild kit from RB Machining. If you buy the plastic ones from Lichsten, they WILL fail again. Hate to bash a sponsor but thems the facts.
 
Dang, you guys are good! Even with 4 thumbs I replaced two in a couple hours. Unfortunately I had to use the ones with the plastic plunger. I'll order a couple good ones for future use. Thanks again to all for the help.
 
I just replaced one broken latch and had difficulties with the styrofoam.  In the end, I cut an 3" square access hatch in the inside fibreglass back of the door where the latch was, and removed it from its little cave inside the foam after drilling out the rivets.  I contemplated removing the entire back but it's riveted to the aluminum frame.  Bit of a PITA but it worked.
 

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