'02 Lance 1130 new owner questions about towing MC trailer

I recently took an interest in TC. I found a dealer that had new and used Lance campers. To our surprise the used 1130 was a very well planned out unit. Dry Bath, 40gal. FW, 2-30#  propane, 32-35gal B&G. We didn't like the new ones as well even with a slide. More floor space but less general storage. So we bought the '02 1130. BUT this is a large TC. She weighed 3900# wet and loaded, 11'6" floor plus 7' overhead queen bed, 18'6" overall This means my rear overhang is 42".

The dealer made sure I had an adequate truck 2005 Dodge 3500 Quad Cab dually payload of 4400#, added 5000# Air Lift  Springs, for increased stability, Happy Jack tie downs, and cabover struts. Drives great.

I looked into hitch extensions and found that extensions 41" long are for 2 1/2" receivers. Tow Beast by Drawtite. So I priced the Tow Beast receiver and extension it's about 620 bucks. Plus receiver installation 100 bucks?  Now the weight rating for this setup is 5000# gross tow weight. Typically what you want to tow a toad or med. boat. Which would be the most common setup.

However, I'm looking at an enclosed 5x8 MC trailer at Colony Cargo to trailer my MC with me. The empty weight is 700# and CCC is 1500# but with my bike and other cargo maybe 900# used. So we are looking at 1600#.  I think I don't need that much hitch (Tow Beast).  At 41" out how tight is the fit, any wobble?

So somebody stop me if this don't sound like a good idea. I found fabrication parts at etrailer.com. For 120 bucks including shipping I bought a 48" extension flat connector with cover, D-ring for safety chain, 2" solid shank 18" long, 2" receiver tube 36" long that one fits inside the other and overlaps about 10" Once welded together I intend to drill through the tube and shank  further back and run a bolt through as a back up in case the weld failed it wouldn't slide apart.   With an extension this far back from the frame receiver there is going to be more slop in fit than I feel comfortable with. I don't want the tail wagging the dog, not good. This would eventually wear the frame receiver excessively. So my solution is to run 2 pieces of 1 1/2" angle iron bolted to a center point about 30" out on the 36" tube and bolted to each side of the truck frame forming a "triangle" for added stability and support. This setup should handle 1600# (10% on ball) safely shouldn't it? After all you can typically tow 2000# on a truck bumper. Just saying, no comparison intended.

I don't expect anyone to try to "weight rate" this. I'm just trying to get "gut feeling" from fellow RVers or anyone who has seen a setup like this for lighter trailers or anyone who might realize something I'm overlooking. Like, design concerns or weakness. Just hit me, maybe I should chain the truck receiver to the extension tube? Are there laws against using homemade hitches? Do they have to be DOT certified?

Thanks for your thoughts...                                                  Darrell (carolinacamper) 

seems like a trailer shop could give you sage advice???  in any event, sway bars come to mind as a way to stabalize the rig laterally with that much of an extension, I'd start to be concerned about the lateral stability...  no expert though.

I have fabricated and I have bought.  My fabrication choice worked fine, but it was a small open trailer.  When I went to enclosed (6x12) I got the tork-Lift system.  I also used TorkLift for tiedowns, much stronger and easier to use than Happi Jac.  Had HJ on first setup. 

Do a google on torklift, the explain it on the website way better than I can, and then my description can't be picked apart.

We travelled many miles with our setup and it worked perfectly, plus you can use equalizer system on it.  Oh, and the weight limit (for the hitchh) is 6,000 pounds with a 48" extension, 12,000 if you have equalizer on it.  This doesn't mean you should, just that it is STRONG.

Thanks guys for your input.

Already considering a rear sway bar just because it doesn't have one from factory. Also have read on another forum of extending the pad on the overload leaf spring so they are in contact also for better lateral support. Checked mine and it wasn't in contact with air springs. Sure wouldn't hurt to use either or both.

Bill, Thanks for lead on torklift systems. I'll check into it.
Does your 6X12 cargo trailer have electric brakes? 2 axles?
I'm looking at a single axle no brakes. I'm guessing the GWR is less than required for brakes.
See it at www.colonycargo.com/listing/504

For the time being I'll work on the smaller 2" set-up. I work at a machine shop with access to minds and machinery. Once I put something together we will see if it is strong and stable. If it feels strong I'll test it without the camper on so I can see what it's doing visually. It's cold right now so progress will be slow 'cause I don't like COLD. 
I'll Post as progress develops or go 2 1/2" if it don't feel safe.  Well it's only money....    Better safe than sorry....


                                                                                                Darrell (carolinacamper) 

Look at Toklift, the drawings can help.  The big deal is the truss, I had a 4' extension with no flex at all.  The chains eliminated any lateral sway. 

My 6x12 is a single, rated at 2990.  3000 is the brake requirement.  Mine was probably at about 2300 pounds, never felt I needed brakes, but wished I had them.  Considered buying the brake backplates etc to convert.  Just figured and anchor is better than a push.

The one I made I did just what you are saying, drove it around noo camper.  That was with a pretty light trailer and light bike though.  Maybe 700 pounds total.  All local driving, by the time I got the big trailer I bought the torklift setup.