Screws on rear ladder coming out

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billwild

billwild

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Joined
Dec 8, 2009
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This is the second motorhome I have had with the screws stripping out where the rear ladder meets the coach. I would really like to repair this for the sake of leaks and to prevent it from getting worse. Would one just fill the holes with a contact cement and then insert the screws? Hate to think being over weight would be affecting this but you never know. May have to hang a sign back there stating "Caution load limit"

Bill
 
A contact cement won't do the job of filling a hole. An epoxy filler would fill it, but I doubt if it will hold when you try to re-insert the screw.  Most likely there is insufficient backing behind the fiberglass skin to suport the weight and torque of someone on the ladder. Standard construction technique is to bond/glue a piece of plywood on the back of the fiberglass skin where a high stress anchor point is needed. That provides a better grip for the screw and spreads the load as well.  If  you can get at it, that would be the best solution.  If that's impossible, I would suggest using "blind nuts" or "blind rivets". Most hardware stores have them, as will Fastenall stores and NAPA auto parts places.

Here are some examples:
http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/popnut.asp
http://www.riveter.com/english/pages/whatsanutrivet.html
http://www.hi-shear.com/fastener_bn-bb_stds.htm
 
Thanks Gary,
          Those blind rivets look like they would do the job very nicely. I will give them a try when the snow melts.

Bill
 
I see a lot of motor homes running down the road with ladders, chairs, etc, tied to the roof ladder.  A good friend who has been an RV'er for years, once told me he never hangs anything from the roof ladder as it may eventually pull the mounting screws.  I cannot confirm this actually happens, but to be safe I don't do it.

My 2 cents...
 
might take a look at some of the lag/sheetrock screws that are used to hang shelves or whatever on sheetrock walls when the stud is not in the right place.  Those are very effective at increasing the load carrying capacity of a wall board.  You need to find the thickness of the fiberglass to get the right size when you go to the hardware store.  I'd use some locktite to guard against vibration too.  Otherwise you need to get behind the panel and put in a doubler to support the load.
 
billwild said:
Those blind rivets look like they would do the job very nicely.
Click to expand...

I had to refasten the fiberglass fenders to the body of my Southwind (the rivets for the most part had disintergrated over the years) and thanks to Gary's advice I learned about blind nuts.  They worked great!  I think you'll be happy with them.  I found mine on eBay. 

Steve
 
The problem I find is that the ladder on most motor homes I'd give a 150 pound rating at best,, and I'm closer to 300 pounds (and a very small amount of change last time I checked, might be under 300 now)

No way would the ladder take my weight, ...

I ended up removing it.. Now I was able to locate some nice strong "Beams" as it were and drove two screws into them, and used Molly bolts (Hollow wall anchors) on two more holes and put a pair of "J" shaped aluminum hooks just below the roof line

They hold a convertable (Step/extension) ladder. it's got a 250 pound rating and will easily hold 400 pounds or more (They should hold 2x their ratings)

This one works great,, What's more when I get on and off I'm getting on and off a slanted ladder.. Which I've tons of expierence at, not a verticle ladder (Which is way more dangerous to get on when you are coming off the roof) plus I can set it up as a step ladder for working on the side of the rig.

I can "Extend" it to support an antenna too (But that's only for Ham type RVers)

 
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