Nubie with towing questions

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Alfred Rosa

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Joined
Jan 8, 2010
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6
Hi, I'm new to the whole RV scene and just bought a 30+' ball hitch trailer in the 8-9000# range.  I have a 2002 Ford F-150  2WD with the 5.4L V8 engine with auto tranny and factory towing package.  My questions are:

Am I alright with this combo or am I going to break my truck?

Is there a proportional brake controller for this vehicle? I cant seem to find one online.

Do you know if this towing package includes a transmission cooler?



 
That's a lot of weight for an F150 - you are probably going to break the truck or risk a serious accident. A more specific answer will depend on deatils of the truck configuration, e.g. bed length, cab style, rear axle, etc. You can check the towing specs for  2002 models in the Trailer Life Towing Guide for 2002, which can be found here:

http://www.trailerlife.com/images/downloads/02towingguide.pdf

or provide the details here and we will help you figure it out.

There are several proportional controllers available, but I highly recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy.

A factory towing package includes whatever the engineers think is needed to handle the rated load. Often that includes either a larger radiator or an auxiliary cooler, but sometimes the standard radiator is sufficient as is. Don't know which is true of your 2002 F150. Since you have the tow package, I wouldn't worry about it unless you see signs of overheating.
 
Roamer,

The truck is a Super Cab, 8' bed, with a rear axle optimized for towing (don't know the numbers).

The towing limit listed on your suggested web site is 8,600#

Have ordered the Prodigy brake controller.
 
Alfred Rosa,

Gary (RVRoamer) is giving you some solid advice.

I had a Ford 150 several years ago and I pulled a 6,000 - 7000 lb horse trailer.  Everyone warned me that the truck would have trouble pulling my trailer.  I said...naw...I'll be fine, Ford says I can do it. 

Like you, I had the V8, tow package, auto transmission and thought I was "good to go".  Well, I had to replace the transmission at the 2 year point, ran through a set of brakes and I "white knuckled" it down steep grades.  Because the truck was still under warranty, they replaced the transmission.  After it was repaired, I quickly traded the truck in on a 1 ton.  It made the world of difference.  I used that truck for lots of years and didn't have any problems with transmission, brakes...nothing.

You could have a lot of trouble pulling that 33', 7,500 lb empty, (which will quickly go to even more weight). 

Marsha~

 
Thanks Marsha,

I'm wondering what engine you had in your F-150?  I have the big V8  (5.4L) which is standard in the F-250 but optional in the 150.

I also pulled a 2 horse trailer (5,000# loaded) with little effort. 

I'm going to take a trip from NY to FL in March with this setup and then I will know whether I should upgrade to a bigger truck.

Al
 
Al, I had the 5.4.  Don't hold me to this but I think when we bought our truck, if you got the tow package, it was with the 5.4 L. engine.

I think where you will see the difference is on grades.  We live in California and I was pulling up and down the mountains to go horse camping.  I grew up in the Midwest (Indiana).  My mom pulled her two horse "Merhow" trailer with a Mercury Marquis.  It did great on the flat roads. 

Marsha~
 
I also pulled a 2 horse trailer (5,000# loaded) with little effort.
Click to expand...

It's a long way from 5000# loaded to 7500# empty. That Prowler is going to way upwards of 8500 lbs when you are ready to travel and the truck's tow capacity has to be decreased by whatever weight you carry in the truck besides a 154 lb driver and a tank of fuel. Even the weight of the hitch has to be factored into the loading. You are going to be well over the F150's rating.

The engine is just part of the story. The 150 has relatively wimpy brakes and suspension and simply is not designed to be a heavy hauler like the much more robust F250 & F350.
 
I agree with Gary and would add that where you intend to go with that trailer is going to count also.  If you would tow in the mountain or Pacific west, the altitudes you encounter will take its toll on that trucks tow capacity to the tune of a loss of 3% of rated HP per 1000 feet of altitude.  You should allow a 20% factor in tow ratings to account for that loss.  That rating of 8600 lbs would be more like 6880 lbs in the west.
 
Fortunately,  my traveling will only be twice a year.  Once to go from NY to FL and once to come back.  It will be at low altitude and pretty flat along the east coast.  I realize I'm pushing the envelope here.  We'll have to see what happens.

Thanks,
Al 
 
  I wish you luck. As Roamer indicated engine (and cooling) are only a minuscule part of the package. Brakes, suspension and tires are more important.
  Soft sidewalls and low max air pressure in 1/2 ton tires don't compare with 3/4 ton or 1 ton tires.
  The brake surface areas are borderline.
  Soft suspension is another issue with that large a "sail" behind you.
  And I'd sure question a ball hitch now matter how high its rated. A 33' box with 3'- 4' of tongue adds to the mix. A 5th wheel would be a better choice at 33'.
  Driving under optimal conditions may be OK but what about emergency situations or evasive maneuvering.
  Don't put it past the Highway Patrol to escort you to a scale if they deem it necessary.
  And in the worst situation don't think the HP won't bring a set of portable scales to an accident scene.
 
Alfred Rosa said:
Hi, I'm new to the whole RV scene and just bought a 30+' ball hitch trailer in the 8-9000# range.  I have a 2002 Ford F-150  2WD with the 5.4L V8 engine with auto tranny and factory towing package.  My questions are:

Am I alright with this combo or am I going to break my truck?
Click to expand...

In general, forum members here have the experience of purchasing a trailer first and then selecting a tow vehicle that is ideal for that trailer.  Also, many forum members tow in demanding conditions, in crosswinds, in the mountains.  Hence, the conservative replies.  I'd agree that a 3/4 ton truck would be a better choice.

But if I were in your situation I would be comfortable towing under some conditions:
- A good, weight distributing, sway control hitch, properly adjusted
- Without undue additional cargo
- Not in the mountains
- With a conservative approach to driving, particularly on long grades
- With particular attention to the condition of the front end, brakes, tires, and suspension of the truck, and the braking system for the trailer.

Is there a proportional brake controller for this vehicle? I cant seem to find one online.
Click to expand...

No.  You have to use one of the inertial controllers.
 
bigskymt said:
  And I'd sure question a ball hitch now matter how high its rated. A 33' box with 3'- 4' of tongue adds to the mix. A 5th wheel would be a better choice at 33'.
Click to expand...

I don't believe that's really true with today's hitches.  With a Hensley-type hitch or a cam-operated anti-sway system 33' should be fine.

Don't put it past the Highway Patrol to escort you to a scale if they deem it necessary.
  And in the worst situation don't think the HP won't bring a set of portable scales to an accident scene.
Click to expand...

Exceeding the tow vehicle GCWR, while operating non-commercially, is not an offense in any jurisdiction that I'm aware of.  Exceeding the licensed weight may be, if the tow vehicle is licensed by weight.  In most states, half-ton trucks aren't licensed by weight.

My advice would be, to get the truck and trailer on the scales yourself beforehand, and see where your loaded weight actually sits relative to the GAWR, rear tire capacity, and GCWR, and be sure that you're happy with the answer.
 
My equipment includes:

Prodigy proportional brake controller.

Reese Round Bar strait-line hitch with shank 1,200# TW / 12,000# GTW.

Cipa temporary tow mirrors.

 
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