electrical surge protectors

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deanjp32 said:
I have a progressive industries EMS HW30C hardwired into my 5th wheel. The readout is showing approx 112V into the camper with only the fridge running. As soon as I turn on the furnace, coffee pot etc the voltage drops below 104V and cuts power which it should do. The parks pedestal is showing 125V yet I?m only getting 112V into the camper. Any ideas as I can only run a couple of electrical items at the same time? Should also note that I?m not using anymore than about 10 amps.

You probably have a poor connection at the plug and it may soon burn.
 
In the case of the original Poster I'd guess dirty contacts on the plug. BUT another thing is measure voltage PLUGGED IN.. yes you should be able to do that on a 30 am site.. If it is a 20-30-50 use a dog bone on the 50 am outlet
 
deanjp32 said:
I have a progressive industries EMS HW30C hardwired into my 5th wheel. The readout is showing approx 112V into the camper with only the fridge running. As soon as I turn on the furnace, coffee pot etc the voltage drops below 104V and cuts power which it should do. The parks pedestal is showing 125V yet I?m only getting 112V into the camper. Any ideas as I can only run a couple of electrical items at the same time? Should also note that I?m not using anymore than about 10 amps.
Dean, that's quite a voltage drop from just turning on a coffee maker and some low-draw appliances. I'm assuming you're reading the voltage from the HW30C's display (or a remote display?) If so, that means the voltage drop is occurring between the HW30C unit and the power pedestal. Has this been a problem at other campgrounds, or did it just start happening where you're camped now? If it just started happening, there may be a problem with the park's electrical system, or a problem in the power pedestal itself. If it's been happening at other campgrounds, you may have a problem with your power cord or plug.

The wires in the plug-head can fray, break and eventually be connected by only a few strands, which can cause the plug-head get hot when you start running heavier loads. You should also take a look at the pins sticking out of the plug head. They can become almost black with oxidation and can start to make poor contact with the socket. While cleaning them, if you notice a fluid-like oozing substance at the base of the pins (it may be dry) that's a pretty good indication that the plug-head is getting hot.

Kev



 
You can get the TRC 37450 user manual and troubleshooting guide at:

http://trci.net/products/surge-guard-rv/hardwires-portables/discontinued-50a-portable-wlcd-display-34750

YOU don't have to wait 2+ minutes (actually 128 seconds) to turn on power - that delay is built into the TRC. It will wait that much time before it passes power on to the coach power cord.  Just don't be alarmed when power doesn't reach the coach right away - the delay is intentional, designed to prevent a/c compressor damage if power ever flickers on/off rapidly.

It is generally not cost effective to replace MOVs. If you have to take it to an electronics guy to do it, the labor + parts will almost surely exceed the price of a new one. If you can DIY or have a pal who can, it's a different situation.
 
We have the 30A Portable TRC Model 34830 with LCD Display.  I like the 128 sec delay and the fact it will not connect if there is a problem.  I also like the voltage and amp readout. I can calculate the total watts being used that is most helpful when on the generator and managing the stuff we use  - mostly when the A/C is running.

We also have the voltage regulator.  I feel both are cheap insurance to help protect the electronics and investment in our TT.  I saw the voltage regulator do its job with a campground low voltage at 114V. The surge protector also reported an "open ground" and a reverse polarity the first time I tried to use the generator.  Turns out I needed a "bonded plug" to use in one of the 120 V outlets on the generator. This ties the ground and common line together as it is in residential wiring.  The 30 amp outlet on the generator was wired with the line and common reversed.  I took the cover off the generator,  switched the wires on the outlet and all works fine.
 
I saw the voltage regulator do its job with a campground low voltage at 114V.

114v is well within the "normal" range for utility voltage. In some regions, 110v is the standard voltage the power utility provides.  Seems odd that your "voltage regulator" would activate at 114v.

The 30 amp outlet on the generator was wired with the line and common reversed.  I took the cover off the generator,  switched the wires on the outlet and all works fine.

Sad if it came from the factory or dealer that way! Maybe somebody replaced the outlet at some point and neglected to get the wiring right? Good that you found and fixed it!
 
It did come that way from the factory.  I was alerted by a customer review I had read prior to purchase that had identified the same problem.  It was the voltage regulator that provided the indication of the situation.

Just out of curiosity, how much of a problem is it with alternating current?
 
Many things still work OK, e.g. light bulbs and resistance heaters, but motors and digital electronics may notice the difference or not work at all. It is also potentially a safety problem.
 
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