M&G brake light shows when brakes are on

John In Detroit said:

Now, you are talking about another application of the light... That is something different and came AFTER I made the 2.99 comment

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Really  ???  From the same web site quoted in the first message:

• See when air is being applied to your toad?s brakes
• See when your breakaway has been tripped and the brakes have been set
• See when your toad?s brakes are Not operating due to a disconnected hose

2 out of 3 have nothing to do with the breakway condition and the very first one is the normal braking condition I've been talking about.

I still think 99 is a bit much though, Perhaps 29.95

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And a lot more fun to design and build it yourself.

I do not recall paying more than 3 digits left of the decmil even when replacing drums and roaters on my ride.

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You must live in a low-wage area. Shop rates here would put you almost in 3 digits just to open the hood or drive the car into the bay. In reality, it's possible one would need 4 new tires on the toad if it were dragged any distance with brakes locked up.

I was really lucky when I left the parking brake set on the new Burb and dragged it 50 miles before realizing what I'd done  :-[  Fortunately, the parking brakes didn't lock the wheels like the service brakes would and all I needed was new linings. Of course, that wouldn't have been detected by an air pressure sensor, but it might be something else to design. Meanwhile, I now always check the parking brake, position of the shift lever and the transfer case twice before removing the key and locking the door of the Burb 

First 3 digits is 100 to 999 dollars, Yes, labor is pushing 3 digits per hour, one hour minimum (about 80 to 95 here now days)

As for the rest, I was responding to the stimulus, not to the added benefits.  I still think there may be easier ways but since I have not seen the system, I can't tell

Even if you have to buy a pressure switch and "T" fitting, I find 99 bucks to be a bit much... However I don't know the cost of the pressure switch

I think we've beaten this one to death John. Your alterative perspectives are always, well, interesting  ;D

Tom said:

I think we've beaten this one to death John. Your alterative perspectives are always, well, interesting? ;D

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Under the conditions Tom, I agree,  As I keep saying, I got to see it before I can say much more...Hard to work through other people's eyes espically when they do not know what I am looking for

OK, now that you guys have "beaten this one to death" how about finding a pressure switch and a wireless transmitter/receiver so we can all build our own brake light? I see pressure switches on the web in the $30 range with various trip pressures, but I am not sure of the residual pressure level in the brake line when the brakes are not on, would it be zero?

Also what would make a good transmitter/receiver combination so we don't have to have a wire back to the coach or look at the back up monitor?

Hey, I thought you were the creative design guy. It's also your turn to be the guineapig for a project.

Tom said:

I guess you haven't been paying attention to the discussion John We're talking about sensing the normal application of brakes, not a breakaway situation.

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Tom,

When I installed the M&G system on a previous car, I installed two air pressure gauges in the motor home dash. One to show the pressure in the air compressor tank (I have a gasoline coach and therefore no air brakes) and one gauge to show the pressure of the air going back to the car. This told me how much braking I was getting--assuming that the proportioning valve and M&G cylinder were working properly. I did test it on several occasions using Bernie's method and developed a feel for what effect various pressures had on the amount of braking I was getting.

When I purchased my present car, I could not install the M&G cylinder because of a lack of space.? I elected to go with the BrakeMaster by RoadMaster and use the M&G compressor and proportioning valve already on my coach.? I then purchased an additional 30 feet of air line and two connectors. I have checked the operation of my brakes several times by pulling the car along side of the motor home and connecting this extension air line between the car and motor home and attaching the cylinder to the brake pedal. With car door open, I could then watch the action of the cylinder on the brake pedal as I applied the motor home brakes; at the same time I could checked the amount of air pressure being applied by the M&G proportioning valve. I also installed a large indicating light in the motor home dash that is connected to the car brake light switch which tells me when the car brake lights are activated.

This would not help you with a pure M&G system in a break-away situation. However, with a wimpy gasoline rig, if the brakes were locked up on the toad, I am sure that I would notice the dragging effect. I do know that in two panic stop situations with the original car, I could definitely hear the car tires squealing when it's brakes locked up. I can't imagine driving with the car brakes locked up and not being aware of it, however with a husky diesel I guess it is possible.

Richard

Interesting Richard, thanks.

All,

I have purchased the M & G brake light for $99.00.  I will get it in a few days but they sent me the instruction sheet.  I am uploading the installation instructions sheet with photos.  It is a WORD file (.DOC File). 

JerryF

All,

I have instaled the M & G brake light system on my Acura MDX.  It was easy.  Attached are three SMALL photos for you to see.

JerryF

Thanks Jerry. Looks like a piece of cake to install.

JerArdra said:

I have instaled the M & G brake light system on my Acura MDX.  It was easy.  Attached are three SMALL photos for you to see.

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Have you taken it for a test drive yet, Jerry?  It looks like a nice addition to the M&G.

Phil

Jerry's working on the next version - a radio signal to the coach with a speaker up front that emits toad brakes being applied. No need to look for the light back there.

Tom said:

a radio signal to the coach with a speaker up front that emits toad brakes being applied.

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Our Apollo uses a radio to light a lamp on the dash when the toad brakes are applied.  No modifications to the vehicle needed other than to tap into the brake light wire.  Simple and very effective.

That wouldn't achieve what Jerry's light is intended to achieve, but it's a simple solution for systems that operate the brake pedal on the toad.

If the brake lights come on when the toad brake system is activated, and I would hope any system would do that, it would work by tapping into the brake light wire at any point.  It's just convenient to use the brake pedal connection.

If you think about how the M&G system works, that still wouldn't do what Jerry's light does.

Then the M&G doesn't light the brake lights when it applies the brakes?

Ned said:

Then the M&G doesn't light the brake lights when it applies the brakes?

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Nope. It applies air to a chamber between the boost and master cylinder. A piston inside the chamber activates the master cylinder. Nothing to do with brake lights. In fact, the ignition key isn't even in the Burb when we tow. The Burb brake lights are powered from the umbilical cord from the coach.

The pressure monitor/switch in Jerry's light system detects when air is applied to the chamber. Tapping into a brake light circuit won't do that.

Ok, I think I like my system better.  The brake lights don't light unless the brakes are applied, so if the dash light doesn't go on then no brakes.