Older motorhome -- Repair / replace ( my observation )

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adun015

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Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Posts
283
Just an observation/comment of mine as I have had to begin a major brake job on the front disc brakes of my '85 p-30.

We had began a first outing to shake the "bugs" out and man did we find a bug. It seems that the front caliper had developed a "grab" on the rotor which was causing a pulling of the front end as well as hot brakes. The call was made to find a repair shop to no avail, so being a fair mechanic and having some great wisdom at my disposal I began to tear into it.
Found that the Passenger side rotor ( also the same side it was pulling to for quite some time ) was sticking and grabbing. An intial phone call to mechanic (brother in - law) and a couple of tests later he confirmed that either the caliper was bad or the brake line was bad. Only way to confirm which it was would be to put it back together lower it off the jacks and crank it up to get the pressure back up in the lines. I decided not to do that as I had spent around an 1 1/2 hr's getting it up and removing the front tires. Another call to the parts house and found that I could replace/repair all part for less than $250.00. This included new brake lines, calipers and brake pads and turning the rotors for both sides.
I have completed the tear down, brake rotors turned and cleaned all the bearings. Waiting on the brake shoes & brake lines, both special order, and then put it back together again. My intial subject line repair or replace was if in doubt replace. The brake lines appear to be good but they are 25+ years old so replace. The good thing was that the rotors had never been turned and are very heavy duty, just turn and put back on. The calipers appear good but for just a little over $45.00 both sides are new ( remanufactured ) to the vehicle with a LLT warranty.
Also every mechanic I have ever talked with says if you replace one caliper replace both, if you turn a rotor turn the other, replace brake pads do both sides. This is for consistency and the fact that if one went bad chances are likely that the other one will in the near future. It is also just good sense to do the job right so you don't have to go back again for a very long time.
It is a very labor intensive task but I am sure I am saving around $1k or more by doing it myself.
This also made me realize that unless something happens ( cross fingers, please don't ) I will be tearing into the back brakes when the weather cools. I have not had any apparent problems but better safe than sorry. So when you have down time tear into those little nagging things that you always think " I need to look into / fix that when I get a chance".
 
RV Roamer said:
You did good!  A complete brake overhaul is almost a requirement on a 25 year old chassis. I'd do all the belts and hoses too.

You are right on. I completed a tune up with new spark plugs & wires, distributor cap and rotor button and new belts week - end before last. Huge improvement. It's just a matter of good maintenance. I know what has been done and mark anything else as not done and needs to be. I also replaced the spare . I had not done that when we did new tires back Nov 08. Just did not occur to me at the time.
 
After close look see the back disc brakes are in good shape but I will still try to pull the wheels and get a real
up close and personal look see. Good thing is that the front brakes have been replaced so another item bites the dust.
 
I had an older coach that had rust in the tank. I could not figure out why the thing kept dying. This was before all the forum help. Finally had to drop the tank. Wat a pain it was to get all the gas out. Now, I have a diesel and haven't had any fuel problems- except trying to pay for the stuff~
 
RV said:
Ernie,

So how did you drain the fuel tank?

Remove, drain & refinish inside of tank. Install. I have the same problem but mine is 80+ gallons and solid steel. I am trying to keep tank full to about 1/2 tank and keep changing the filters. If it does not clear up within the next camping season I will be dropping the tank and also do not look forward to that process at all.
 
Yea, I'm not looking forward to it either.  I'm hoping to hear from Ernie or anyone else that has done it, specifically what is the suggested way to drain the tank, AND if they thought it was worth the effort.  I'm guessing it's by disconnecting or cutting the fuel line and siphoning.  My tank is fine, I think, but the sending unit may be bad since the gauge registers empty all the time.  I'm half tempted to not bother with it and just refill based on mileage but I like when things work.

Bob
 
We filled everyones lawn mower gas containers that we could find. I disconnected the fuel line and ran the pump to fill the containers.  This as you might suspect took forever. It also toasted my fuel pump, but this was an easy inline pump and replaced that.
 
RV said:
My tank is fine, I think, but the sending unit may be bad since the gauge registers empty all the time.  I'm half tempted to not bother with it and just refill based on mileage but I like when things work.

I've been using my trip meter as my fuel gauge for four years and 25k miles.  I'm so used to it now that I don't miss a gauge at all.
 
How far can you go on a fillup?  I get 8 MPG average and have a 40 gallon tank, so I start looking at about 250 miles.

Ernie.. thx for the reply... I'm not sure I'm as ambitious as you are :)

Bob
 
  Couple of things. If the coach pulls say, to the right, its probably the left side thats not working. Now if the wheel is dragging that would be the opposite.
  One thing to look for is the any clamps around the rubber hoses. The rust can start to pinch a hose shut. I had that happen on my daughters 96 neon.  Good luck
 
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