Cold & Drafty Bathroom? 2006 Models 35A & 35U..

I always sensed the bathroom seemed colder...

Then, I pulled the the two side screws on the Magazine Holder fixture/inset to look under the bathroom counter...yikes!!!..

I found a 6 inch square hole in the floor used to route water lines and some electrical wires down and out bathroom to under the floor..I could clearly see and feel where outside air had direct access from the wheel well in and under the counter to to seep through drawer and counter space in the bathroom area.

I put pieces of fiberglass matting two layers deep (four inches) accross the top of the hole to fill the floor bottom counter space (20" x 20 inch).

No more draft... or excess road dust.

We have a hole like that under the bathroom sink cabinet in our UA 40e. We became aware of it when I put a light in the water service bay in very cold temps, and then saw light under the cabinet kick panel when we tuned the lights off to go to bed. I have no concern of dust, etc from the wheel well, but did find a hair clip from one of the drawers in the water bay so know it is a pretty clear pathway for air!

afchap said:

We have a hole like that under the bathroom sink cabinet in our UA 40e. We became aware of it when I put a light in the water service bay in very cold temps, and then saw light under the cabinet kick panel when we tuned the lights off to go to bed. I have no concern of dust, etc from the wheel well, but did find a hair clip from one of the drawers in the water bay so know it is a pretty clear pathway for air!

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Yup...and now I see another same size "plumbing routing" hole in cabinet side wall under the kitchen sink..

Fiberglass mat stuffing - Plugging most significant "free air leaks" helps A/C and furnace effectiveness.

There's also a large >8"X8" opening in the bedroom floor under the cabinet on the "non-slide" wall that is open to the outside..... sealing that was a challenge just to get to it... (need to be left handed with at least two elbows on the left arm and it would help to be < 2 feet tall).... Used floor insulation when I found it but will be changing that out to better material and then seal it with insulating foam as soon as it gets and stays above freezing...

WhiteEagle said:

There's also a large >8"X8" opening in the bedroom floor under the cabinet on the "non-slide" wall that is open to the outside..... sealing that was a challenge just to get to it... (need to be left handed with at least two elbows on the left arm and it would help to be < 2 feet tall).... Used floor insulation when I found it but will be changing that out to better material and then seal it with insulating foam as soon as it gets and stays above freezing...

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Good find...how did you locate it from inside? Did you pull some bottom drawers from the non slide cabinet?

I was wondering why the area under the bathroom sink was getting a little dusty - when I built swing out storage I discovered an opening to the plumbing bay like you guys did.  Got 'er sealed up.

In my case, I looked inside the one set of cabinet doors next to where the washer/dryer would go if ithey were installed - under the botton shelf and noticed that the panel beteen that cabinet set and the set of drawers was open.. and it opened to the area under the one set of drawers which is open to the outside... believe it's open to an area apparently just above where one of the water storage tanks is mounted... don't believe it's visable from the underside either.... For the winter, I just stuffed carpet under padding in that space... will fix it this spring as soon as I can get back to it....

Something to think about if you frequent sub-freezing weather ... are these wiring passage-ways how the basement area/water tanks area is "heated" on your coach ???  I know on my UA that there is at least one 2" hose off the LP furnace duct into the enclosed area where the water tanks are, but I don't know that to be true for other models.......

AMAZING!!!!  I'm looking tomorrow, I thought the place was drafty

WhiteEagle said:

There's also a large >8"X8" opening in the bedroom floor under the cabinet on the "non-slide" wall that is open to the outside..... sealing that was a challenge just to get to it... (need to be left handed with at least two elbows on the left arm and it would help to be < 2 feet tall).... Used floor insulation when I found it but will be changing that out to better material and then seal it with insulating foam as soon as it gets and stays above freezing...

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Thanks..I just found this one..just where you described..saw it when I pulled a bottom drawer fully out.. sealed now.

I good way to find these inflow cool air leaks is to turn on furnace...then feel in-around hole...if its cold air...that's draft coming into your rig.

Are you certain the openings actually go out doors, or are they just to the cavity beneith the floor where all of the utilities run?

On our 2002 Itasca Sunrise there is a large cutout beneath the bedroom drawers which is part of the cold air return.  Block that and the furnace will not get sufficient cold air return. 

I called Winne techs once to ask about heat in the basement, they said that they leave large openings around the pipes, etc. to allow heat below for the pipes & tanks. 

afchap said:

Something to think about if you frequent sub-freezing weather ... are these wiring passage-ways how the basement area/water tanks area is "heated" on your coach ???  I know on my UA that there is at least one 2" hose off the LP furnace duct into the enclosed area where the water tanks are, but I don't know that to be true for other models.......

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Paul, I know the type of hole-duct extension you mention here..I have similar three foot  2 inch slinky spring/foil covered hose going to heat my water pump area.

Holes we are working here are just "rough" cutouts for routing water hoses and electical wires from outside coach area through floorboards to inside service points.


Charlie

In our 35A, I see a large opening to the plumbing area, but that is to keep it heated....you start covering up this heat access area during severe cold temperatures, and I assure you that you will have some frozen water lines going to the shower.  If you live or travel in moderate temperature areas, then it might be ok to cover up the access area.

afchap said:

Something to think about if you frequent sub-freezing weather ... are these wiring passage-ways how the basement area/water tanks area is "heated" on your coach ???  I know on my UA that there is at least one 2" hose off the LP furnace duct into the enclosed area where the water tanks are, but I don't know that to be true for other models.......

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ANSWER NAILED by afchap! 

These are access areas to the fresh water tanks and holding tanks on model 35A (Dont know about other models.  There are NO seperate heating ducts from the furnace to these areas.  You cover these areas up in the Winter (especially where we live), and you certainly will have some freezing problems IMHO.

In the case of the one on mine under the bedroom drawers open thru the side panel into the inside of the shelf unit cabinet, I don't believe theres any way any heat from the inside of the coach could get there, i don't find any heat duct going into it, it seems like and feels like it goes to the outside above one of the storage tanks.... heat rises so I don't believe any heat from anywhere can find it's way there into the cabnet, sideways thru the panel opening, and downward to the opening - but i know if you stand next to it with bare feet in cold weather, your toes will attract cold air....
Have two cold air return ducts with grids and the "under-the-bed ' chamber is not really sealed so suspect mine is getting plenty return air through those.....
I believe the 35A only has two ducted heat outlets from the furnace... - one is a bedroom floor grid, and one is on floor up behind/side of the  drivers seat and front of sofa..
You bring up excellent point however so I'm sure going to triple check as soon as the temp gets above 40 again and I can move it so put out the slides so I can lay down at foot of the bed and look again in the daytime....

WhiteEagle said:

In the case of the one on mine under the bedroom drawers open thru the side panel into the inside of the shelf unit cabinet, I don't believe theres any way any heat from the inside of the coach could get there, i don't find any heat duct going into it, it seems like and feels like it goes to the outside above one of the storage tanks.... heat rises so I don't believe any heat from anywhere can find it's way there into the cabnet, sideways thru the panel opening, and downward to the opening - but i know if you stand next to it with bare feet in cold weather, your toes will attract cold air....

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My exact thoughts on the same model 35A. 

Those holes were cut for some type of heat transfer to the holding tank areas, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how heat would get "down there".  There is no furnace ductwork to our seperate water pump area and seperate holding tank areas.

For what I can tell, the 35A is the worst insulated unit that Winnebago sells for extremely cold climates. 

The winnebago plumbing diagrams for the 2007 35A on page 4 clearly show this cut out under those drawers as well as the one under the bed box..doesn't show any plumbing use for it...... but it does not show the floor grid cutout where my heat actually comes from..... I can't find the heat/ac schematics so will just have to wait until maybe this weekend to squirm into the space to see if it could be serving a purpose or is just a cutout like the diagram implies

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2007/07_f35a_plumb.pdf

WhiteEagle, thanks for the posts, and I look forward to hearing back. 

Thanks to Pubtym also for this thread, as it is bringing up some useful information pertaining to all these "holes" and possible reasons for them.

Recap and my current rationale for all:

I have the Model 35U...I included Model 35A just as a alert (possibility) to a model with similar floorplan. I meant no cause of anxiety to any member with a Model 35A

I know the difference between the side wall heat duct intakes...floor registers...and clearly recognize a rough out hole for routing service water lines and electrical wires...and their primary purpose is a building need hole for coach manufacture.

I know...in my coach there is only on direct heating duct tap extension to a compartment...that's the flex hose to the water pump cubby hole.

I understand heated air rises...and it naturally draws cool-cold air upward. If one feels cold air entry at one of the rough out holes with the furnace running...cold air is coming in the coach..not warm air moving down to heat underfloor.  Therefore, plugging major sources of incoming cold air is my objective.

On my coach...the heated furnace air ducts are underfloor and branch out to the individual registers. I see this main furnace duct underfloor system is this standard galvanized metal and not insulated on the exterior of the ducting. I believe if any of the underfloor area compartments are heated..the only direct heating source is the indirect radiated heating from the exterior surfaces of the underfloor ducts.

Keep in mind that the compartment needs to have an outlet if it has a heat supply. When the furnace fan turns on it will pressurize the compartment and without an open outlet it will not be able to push hot air into the space. I would recommend insulating the plumbing bay itself instead.

Pete